Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
Standard route · South Ridge
Overview
North Eolus is a 14er sub-peak on the north end of Mount Eolus, high above Chicago Basin in the Needle Mountains of the Weminuche Wilderness. It is almost always climbed together with Eolus, since both share the same approach from Twin Lakes to the ridge that joins them. From the notch in that ridge, North Eolus is only a short, fun Class 3 scramble on grippy rock.
Getting there is the big part of the trip. Most people ride the narrow gauge train to Needleton, hike about 6 miles up Needle Creek, and camp in Chicago Basin. The climb described here starts from camp: about 5.4 miles round trip and 2,950 feet of gain. The route climbs steep switchbacks to Twin Lakes, crosses an upper basin, and then works up benches and ledges to the connecting ridge.
It suits people who are comfortable with easy Class 3 scrambling and some exposure. Plan on 4 to 6 hours from camp for North Eolus alone, longer if you add Eolus and the Catwalk. Storms build fast over the Needles, and the upper route has no shelter.
Plan of the day
Start by
Leave camp by 5 a.m. Storms often form over the Needle Mountains by late morning, and you will be above treeline from Twin Lakes onward.
Turnaround
If you are not at the notch on the Eolus-North Eolus ridge by 10 a.m., turn back. If you want both summits, skip Eolus unless you reach the notch by 9 a.m.
Crux
The steep ledges and ramps below the connecting ridge, and the final steeper pitch of North Eolus' south ridge. The scrambling is easy Class 3 but exposed.
Route-finding
The trail to Twin Lakes is clear. Above the lakes, the path becomes a climbers' trail marked by cairns on benches and ledges, and it is easy to wander onto harder rock. The notch is the low point in the ridge between the two peaks.
Water
Needle Creek runs past camp, a stream flows beside the switchbacks, and Twin Lakes sits at about 12,500 feet. There is no water above the lakes. Filter everything.
The trip starts at the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad depot in Durango; signs in town point the way, and there is a large parking area nearby. Book a ticket on a train that stops at Needleton, and plan your return train before you go, since the schedule controls your exit. The ride takes about 2.5 hours and covers about 30 miles.
At Needleton, cross the Animas River on the footbridge and hike up the Needle Creek trail about 6 miles and 2,800 feet to Chicago Basin, where most people camp. Mileage for this route starts from a basin camp near 11,100 feet. The area is in the Weminuche Wilderness, so follow its rules for camping, fires and group size.
Trail in the treesTundraScramblingExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Chicago Basin camp 11,100' · 0 mi
From camp in the open basin, pick up the trail heading north toward Twin Lakes. The peaks of the Needles ring the basin, with Eolus to the northwest.
Chicago Basin from below Jupiter Mountain · Photo: SFC H
2
Twin Lakes trail 11,400' · 0.4 mi
Leave the basin floor on the trail to Twin Lakes. It climbs through the last trees and willows.
Watch for: Stay on the Twin Lakes trail rather than the trail toward Columbine Pass.
3
Headwall switchbacks 12,000' · 1 mi
The trail switchbacks steeply up a grassy, rocky headwall next to a cascading stream. It is steep but well worn.
4
Twin Lakes 12,500' · 1.5 mi
Reach the Twin Lakes basin, a high bench with two small lakes. Eolus and North Eolus rise to the northwest.
Watch for: Last water. Mountain goats often gather here.
5
Upper basin 12,800' · 1.8 mi
Head northwest past the lakes on a climbers' trail into the upper basin below Eolus' east side.
6
Benches below the ridge 13,200' · 2.1 mi
The route climbs steeper ground on grassy benches and rock slabs, marked by cairns. Keep looking ahead for the next cairn.
Watch for: Wet slabs are slick. Stay on the cairned line.
7
Ledges and ramps 13,550' · 2.35 mi
Scramble up ledges and ramps toward the ridge between Eolus and North Eolus. Some moves need your hands.
Watch for: Loose rock on the ledges. Watch for rocks from climbers above.
The ridge from North Eolus over to Eolus · Photo: Robert Tadlock
8
Eolus-North Eolus notch 13,850' · 2.6 mi
Scramble up to the connecting ridge and the notch. From here the Catwalk leads south toward Eolus, and North Eolus' south ridge rises to the north.
Watch for: Decision point for weather and time.
9
North Eolus south ridge 13,950' · 2.65 mi
Turn north and scramble up the south ridge on grippy, solid rock. It is short and fun. Near the top the angle steepens, but it stays easy Class 3.
Watch for: Exposure on both sides of the ridge.
10
Summit of North Eolus 14,039' · 2.7 mi
Top out on the small summit. Mount Eolus is just to the south, and Sunlight and Windom are across the basin to the east.
Here The Catwalk goes off to the left. Turn right to follow the trail.
Coming down: Turn left to stay on the trail you came up. Don’t take The Catwalk.
Landmarks to know
Chicago Basin, ringed by the Needle Mountains.
The trail to Twin Lakes leaving the basin floor to the north.
Switchbacks next to a cascading stream on the headwall.
Twin Lakes on a high bench near 12,500 feet.
Cairns on grassy benches and slabs below Eolus' east side.
The notch in the ridge between Eolus and North Eolus.
The short, steep south ridge of North Eolus.
Getting down
Downclimb the south ridge to the notch. From the notch, descend the ledges and ramps the way you came. This is where people get off route: it is easy to follow a promising ledge that ends in steeper, looser rock. Stop and look for cairns before each drop.
Once on the benches, follow the cairns back southeast to Twin Lakes. Then take the trail down the headwall switchbacks to Chicago Basin. The switchbacks are steep and can be slick with water or gravel. If you are catching a train the same day, leave plenty of time for the hike out to Needleton.
If things go wrong
From the notch, the fastest safe ground is back down the ledges to the benches and Twin Lakes. Do not try other lines off the ridge; they get steep and loose quickly. If a storm builds, get down from the ridge first and then off the benches. Twin Lakes and the headwall trail below are lower, but still in the open until you get back to the basin. If someone is hurt, keep them warm and still, and send someone for help. Chicago Basin is remote, cell signal is poor, and help can take many hours or need a helicopter. A satellite messenger is worth carrying. Call 911 if you can get through.
3D flyover
Press play to fly the South Ridge. The graph shows elevation along the way and how much you gain each mile. Open full screen.
For planning only. The line is traced from open map data, not walked in the field, and off-trail parts are drawn straight. Load it in your GPS app to see the route, but navigate with your eyes, a map and the route description.
See the trail on video
A climb of this route filmed by The Virtual sherpa. The video belongs to them and only plays when you press play. This video covers North Eolus and Eolus together.
Jump to
Other routes
All 1 route up North Eolus, with the class and round-trip distance for each.
TypeRouteClassTrailheadRound trip
Standard
South Ridge
Class 3
Needleton (Durango & Silverton train)5.4 mi · 2,950'Full route →
Mount Eolus → North Eolus → Sunlight Peak → Windom Peak
The ultimate single-day wilderness push matching four separate high points. You launch from a remote camp, scrambling across the high-exposure Catwalk on Eolus, dropping down into the basin floor, ascending the giant blocky granite boulder fields of Windom, and finishing with the technical, exposed chimney cracks of Sunlight Peak's Red Chute.
From the trail
Our photos from North Eolus
This is a climb, not a hike
Class 3 means sustained scrambling with your hands, on terrain where a fall has real consequence. Build up on easier scrambles first, wear a helmet, go with someone who has led this kind of ground, and remember that downclimbing is harder than going up.
