Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
Combo route · Edwards + McClellan: East Slopes
Overview
This is a short link-up of two thirteeners on the Continental Divide: Mount Edwards first, then McClellan Mountain. You start high at the old Waldorf Mine site, walk up a basin with no trail, and climb to the saddle between the two peaks. From there it is a quick side trip to each summit.
The route is Class 2 the whole way. There is no real trail above the basin, so you need to be comfortable picking your own line on grass, talus and loose rock. Edwards' northeast ridge is the steepest part. It is a good outing for hikers who have done a few peaks and want to try easy off-trail travel.
It is only about 4.5 miles round trip with roughly 2,400 feet of gain, if you can drive to the mine. Most people take 4 to 6 hours. Without a 4WD vehicle, the day gets much longer because of the rough road.
Plan of the day
Start by
By 6 a.m. The whole route is above treeline and there is no shelter.
Turnaround
Be on top of Edwards by 10:30 a.m. If clouds are building when you get back to the saddle, skip McClellan and go down.
Crux
Edwards' northeast ridge above the saddle. It is steeper than the basin and a bit loose, but stays Class 2.
Route-finding
Moderate. There is no trail after you leave the road. Edwards is hidden from the start, so follow the creek west into the basin and head for the saddle between the two peaks.
Water
The creek near the start is the only reliable source. Carry 2 liters and filter anything you take from it.
Leave Interstate 70 at the Georgetown exit and drive through town, going the way the Guanella Pass Scenic Byway signs point. Past town, go a little over 2.5 miles. The byway soon climbs through two switchbacks; just past them, a sign on the right marks the Waldorf turnoff. Cars without 4WD should park near this turnoff.
With a high-clearance 4WD, turn onto the Leavenworth Creek road. The first mile is rocky. At the first junction, stay on FS 248.1 by bearing right, then climb a few switchbacks for about a mile to a sharp bend near 10,000 feet. Go left at that bend and continue about 3.5 miles to reach the old Waldorf Mine site, which sits at 11,600 feet.
RoadTundraRidgeScramblingExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Waldorf Mine area 11,600' · 0 mi
Park near the mine ruins. You can see McClellan from here, but Edwards is out of sight. Head southwest along the road toward Argentine Pass.
Watch for: Old mine sites can have open holes and rusted metal. Stay out of any structures.
2
Creek crossing on the road 11,650' · 0.2 mi
In less than a quarter mile the road reaches a creek. Leave the road here and follow the creek upstream to the west.
Watch for: Fill water here if you need it.
3
Basin below Mount Edwards 12,000' · 0.8 mi
The creek leads you into an open basin tucked under Edwards. Keep walking toward the far west end. The ground is grass and scattered rock.
4
West end of the basin 12,400' · 1.2 mi
The slope gets steeper near 12,400 feet. There is no trail. Pick the easiest line west, then bend northwest toward the saddle between the two peaks.
Watch for: Watch for loose rock on the steeper slope.
5
Edwards-McClellan saddle 13,400' · 1.8 mi
Aim for the Edwards end of the saddle. Once on it, you will see both peaks. Turn left to head for Edwards first.
Watch for: This is a good place to check the weather before going on.
6
Edwards' northeast ridge 13,700' · 2 mi
It is Class 2 here too, though this ridge is steeper going than the basin below. Use your hands for balance if you want. Near 13,700 feet the grade eases.
Watch for: Test holds and footing. Some rocks are loose.
7
Summit of Mount Edwards 13,860' · 2.2 mi
Walk across to the high point. Grays and Torreys are close by in one direction and McClellan is in the other.
8
Back at the saddle 13,400' · 2.4 mi
Return down the ridge to the saddle. If you are skipping McClellan, go back the way you came. If not, cross the saddle heading northeast.
9
Summit of McClellan Mountain 13,587' · 2.9 mi
It is about half a mile and 200 feet of gain from the saddle. There is little trail, but the line is plain. Follow the southwest ridge, keeping a little right of its edge, to the top.
Watch for: Stay back from the edge on the left side of the ridge.
Getting down
From McClellan, walk back toward the saddle. Before you reach it, angle south and drop back into the basin. Pick up the creek and follow it down to the road, then walk northeast back to the mine area.
If things go wrong
The saddle is the key decision point. From there the basin is always a short, easy way down to the creek and road. If a storm comes in while you are on either summit, return to the saddle and descend into the basin right away.
Other routes
Every way up Mount Edwards we list, with its class.
Edwards + McClellan: East Slopesthis routeClass 2 4.5 mi
Conditions change the route
This describes the route in its usual season. Distances and elevations are close estimates for planning. Snow, ice, rockfall, a washed-out road or an afternoon storm can make it a very different climb. Check recent conditions the week you go and turn around when the day tells you to.