Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
This is a technical climb. Falls here can be fatal. It is for experienced climbers who are comfortable on steep, exposed rock and can decide when to turn back.
Technical route · West Ridge
Overview
The West Ridge of Dyer Mountain is a short but serious scramble out of Iowa Gulch near Leadville. It starts with an easy walk up a rocky basin, then turns into a ridge of stacked, broken rock with a short Class 4 chimney and several jagged points. The round trip is about 4.5 miles with roughly 2,250 feet of gain.
This is a technical route for experienced scramblers who are comfortable on exposed, loose rock and can downclimb what they climb. It is much harder than the walk-up routes on Dyer. Most people climb the west ridge and then descend the easier Southeast Slopes back to the Iowa Gulch road.
Plan on 5 to 7 hours car to car. The ridge is slow going, so give yourself extra time and start early.
Plan of the day
Start by
By 6 a.m. The approach is short, but the ridge takes longer than the distance suggests.
Turnaround
If you have not reached the ridge above the first big tower, around 13,200 feet, by 10 a.m., or clouds are building, go back down to the saddle and walk out.
Crux
The short Class 4 chimney and Class 3 rock where the ridge begins near 13,000 feet, and then the bypass that skirts the first tower to the south.
Route-finding
Moderate. There is no trail. The basin is easy to read, but on the ridge you must find the ledge system south of the first tower and the rocky passage that leads back to the crest.
Water
None you can count on. The small lake in the basin is not a reliable source. Carry 2 to 3 liters.
From U.S. 24 at the south end of Leadville, turn east on Monroe Street. After about 0.2 mile, make a right turn onto Lake County Road 2, heading south. This paved road reaches a fork in about 3.8 miles. Go left onto a dirt road and drive about 3 miles up Iowa Gulch.
There is no marked trailhead for this climb. Park on the side of the road near 11,650 feet, about 7 miles from U.S. 24. The dirt road is fine for most cars in summer.
TundraTalus and screeRidgeScramblingExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Roadside parking in Iowa Gulch 11,650' · 0 mi
Leave the road and head northeast toward the basin below Dyer's west ridge. There is no trail. You will soon get your first look at the ridge.
2
Rocky drainage 11,900' · 0.4 mi
Climb up the middle of the rocky drainage that leads into the basin. Look for the easiest ground past a band of small cliffs.
Watch for: Rocks here can shift underfoot.
3
Small lake 12,200' · 0.8 mi
Above the cliffs the ground eases. Keep going past a small lake, aiming for the basin's north end.
4
North end of the basin 12,400' · 1 mi
The terrain gets steeper and rougher. Climb the scree slope at the head of the basin toward the saddle on your right, between West Dyer and Dyer.
Watch for: Scree is loose. Keep space between you and others.
5
West Dyer-Dyer saddle 12,850' · 1.2 mi
Reach the saddle. You can add West Dyer by walking about a quarter mile west and back. For Dyer, turn east toward the base of the ridge.
Watch for: This is the last easy place to turn back.
6
Base of the west ridge 12,900' · 1.3 mi
The ground changes to stacked, broken rock. Follow the crest carefully toward a tall point ahead. Test holds before you weight them.
Watch for: Many blocks are loose.
7
Chimney below the first tower 13,000' · 1.4 mi
Climb a short Class 4 chimney, then scramble through Class 3 rock to a spot just below the tower. This is the hardest move on the route.
Watch for: Exposed Class 4. A fall here would be serious.
8
South-side bypass 13,200' · 1.55 mi
Do not climb the tower. Angle right onto the ridge's south flank and climb about 200 feet. Skirt a small rock face, then look for a rock-filled passage that takes you back up to the crest.
Watch for: Easy to get off route here. Take your time.
9
Jagged points 13,500' · 1.75 mi
Back on the crest, scramble up and over several sharp points between about 13,200 and 13,500 feet. Move slowly and keep three points of contact.
Watch for: Exposure on both sides.
10
Easier ridge 13,600' · 1.85 mi
Near 13,600 feet the hardest ground is behind you. There is still some scrambling. Follow the ridge and go over a bump.
11
False summit 13,800' · 2.05 mi
From the bump you see a false summit ahead. Hike and scramble up it. From the top you can finally see the real summit.
12
Summit of Dyer Mountain 13,861' · 2.2 mi
Drop a little, then climb the last short pitch to the top. Take a break and check the weather before heading down.
Getting down
Do not go back down the west ridge. Descend Dyer's Southeast Slopes route, which is much easier and brings you back to the Iowa Gulch road. Walk the road back to your car. Before you leave the summit, make sure you know where that route starts.
If things go wrong
Before the chimney, the saddle between West Dyer and Dyer is your exit. Drop back into the basin the way you came. Once you are past the first tower, retreat means downclimbing hard, exposed rock, so it is often faster to keep going and descend the easier Southeast Slopes. If a storm moves in while you are on the ridge, get off the crest as soon as it is safe. Call 911 in an emergency if you have signal. A rescue on this ridge would take many hours.
Other routes
Every way up Dyer Mountain we list, with its class.
This describes the route in its usual season. Distances and elevations are close estimates for planning. Snow, ice, rockfall, a washed-out road or an afternoon storm can make it a very different climb. Check recent conditions the week you go and turn around when the day tells you to.