Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
Combo route · Garfield from Grizzly
Overview
This link-up adds Garfield Peak to a climb of Grizzly Peak A. You first reach Grizzly by its east ridge from McNasser Gulch. Then you follow the connecting ridge south to Garfield. Most people come down Garfield's north side instead of going back over Grizzly. The whole trip is about 7 miles round trip from the upper trailhead, with about 3,400 feet of gain.
The ridge between the two peaks looks harder than it is. Most of it is Class 2 on loose rock, with bypasses below the crest. The only Class 3 is a few short, easy moves near Garfield's summit and on the way off it. It suits hikers who are already comfortable on Grizzly's east ridge and want a second summit with a little scrambling.
Plan on 7 to 9 hours car to car. You spend most of the day above treeline, so an early start matters.
Plan of the day
Start by
Before 5:30 a.m. Almost the whole route is above trees and the ridge between the peaks has no shelter.
Turnaround
If you are not on Grizzly's summit by about 10:30 a.m., or storms are building, skip Garfield and go back down Grizzly's east ridge.
Crux
The upper part of Garfield. The easiest line swings right onto the south slopes, then climbs back left to the ridge. The last short moves on the crest and the exit off the summit are easy Class 3.
Route-finding
Moderate. Leave Grizzly to the west side of the ridge, not along the crest. Go around the point between the peaks instead of over it. On Garfield, look for the easier Class 2 slopes to the right of the ridge.
Water
Only the stream in lower McNasser Gulch, if it is running. Carry 2 to 3 liters and treat any water you collect.
Just south of Leadville, leave U.S. 24 and head west on Colorado 82 toward Twin Lakes. After about 14.5 miles, turn left at the signed La Plata Peak trailhead. Next to the parking area, pick up Forest Service road 391, the South Fork Lake Creek road. Keep right at a junction about 2.7 miles in. At about 3.2 miles you reach the turn for FS 394. This is the lower trailhead. Park here if the road has been hard so far.
With good clearance and 4WD, you can take FS 394 to the right for about 1.1 more miles, up to a gate at 11,360 feet. This is the upper trailhead. The mileage in this description starts here. Starting from the lower trailhead adds a little over 2 miles round trip.
RidgeTalus and screeTundraExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Upper McNasser Gulch trailhead 11,360' · 0 mi
Start at the gate and head up into McNasser Gulch. Follow Grizzly Peak's east ridge route from here.
2
Mid McNasser Gulch 12,200' · 1.4 mi
Keep climbing up the gulch toward Grizzly's east ridge. Remember this area. On the way down you will rejoin your ascent line near here.
3
Grizzly's east ridge 13,000' · 2.2 mi
Gain the ridge and follow it west toward the summit. The terrain is rocky Class 2.
Watch for: Check the weather before you commit to the upper ridge.
4
Grizzly Peak A summit 13,997' · 3.2 mi
Take a break and look south at Garfield. The ridge between them looks rough, but the easy way stays mostly off the crest. Walk a few steps back west before you start down.
Watch for: This is the place to decide whether to continue or turn back.
5
West side bypass 13,850' · 3.4 mi
Drop west off the ridge a short way and head south on loose rock below the crest. This avoids the harder rock on the ridge top. After a short distance, climb back onto the ridge.
Watch for: The rock here is loose. Keep spacing between people.
6
Point 13,650 13,650' · 3.8 mi
Follow the ridge toward the high point between the two peaks. Do not climb over its top. A path wraps onto and around it to reach the saddle below Garfield.
7
Saddle below Garfield 13,500' · 4 mi
Follow a faint path toward Garfield and stop to look at the face ahead. Going straight up the ridge is harder. The easier line is off to the right.
8
Garfield's south slopes 13,600' · 4.2 mi
Swing right (south) a little, then start up the south slopes on Class 2 ground. Work back left and rejoin the ridge where it feels comfortable. If you meet a rocky point on the crest, you can pass it by staying farther right before climbing to the ridge.
Watch for: If you end up on the crest early, scramble east along it with care.
9
Garfield Peak summit 13,780' · 4.4 mi
The last tenth of a mile before the top is easier and the line is clear. Walk up to the summit.
Watch for: Before leaving, find the easy Class 3 exit a few feet east, on the south side of the ridge.
Getting down
Most people skip the return over Grizzly and go down Garfield's north side. From the summit, go a few feet east, then downclimb a short, easy Class 3 step on the south side of the ridge. Then keep heading east and cross back to the north side. Scramble a little farther east, then go down a loose scree slope to the north. It is steep and unpleasant, so go slowly. Below it, head northeast out of the upper gulch and drop down to meet your morning route near 12,200 feet. Follow it back to the trailhead. You can also go back over Grizzly and down its east ridge.
If things go wrong
Before Garfield, the simplest way out is back down Grizzly's east ridge. From the saddle below Garfield, you can drop north toward McNasser Gulch, but the slopes are loose and steep, so move carefully. Do not start the traverse if storms are near. There is no shelter on the connecting ridge. If someone is hurt, get them lower and out of the wind and call 911 if you have signal.
Other routes
Every way up Grizzly Peak A we list, with its class.
This describes the route in its usual season. Distances and elevations are close estimates for planning. Snow, ice, rockfall, a washed-out road or an afternoon storm can make it a very different climb. Check recent conditions the week you go and turn around when the day tells you to.