Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
This is a snow climb. It is only safe when the snow is firm and stable, usually early in the morning in late spring and early summer. You need an ice axe, crampons, a helmet and the skills to use them. Check avalanche conditions before you go.
Snow route · Southwest Gully
Overview
The Southwest Gully is a direct snow climb up Lackawanna Peak from Independence Pass Road. It is short but steep. You gain about 3,450 feet in only 2 miles, so almost the whole route is uphill. There is no trail. You follow an avalanche path, then a narrow couloir, then a wide gully to the summit ridge.
This route is for climbers who are comfortable on moderate snow with an ice axe and crampons. The gully tops out near 37 degrees. It is not a summer hike. Once the snow melts, the lower choke turns into wet rock and the gully becomes loose and unpleasant.
Most parties take 5 to 8 hours round trip. Start early so you are off the snow before the sun softens it.
Plan of the day
Start by
Before dawn. The gully faces southwest and gets sun later in the morning, but the snow can turn soft and unstable by late morning on warm days.
Turnaround
Turn around if the snow is soft and you are sinking deep, or if you are not near the top of the gully around 13,400 feet by about 10 a.m.
Crux
The narrow couloir above the choke, and the upper gully where the slope steepens to about 37 degrees.
Route-finding
Mostly simple. Find the bottom of the gully from the road, then stay in it. The summit is hidden until you reach the ridge near 13,400 feet. Then head northeast and look for the summit bump on your left.
Water
Snowmelt and the stream in the gully, which may be frozen or buried. Carry what you need, about 2 to 3 liters, and treat any water you collect.
From U.S. 24 south of Leadville, drive west on Colorado 82 toward Twin Lakes and Independence Pass. After about 14.6 miles, you reach the La Plata Peak trailhead parking on the left.
In spring, Colorado 82 is usually closed beyond this point. If so, park here and walk about 1.2 miles up the road. When the road is open, go 1.2 miles up it and park in a little left-side pull-off that fits just three or four cars.
RoadTrail in the treesSnow or couloirTundraRidgeExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Pull-off on Colorado 82 10,380' · 0 mi
Leave the car and follow the road uphill for roughly 50 yards. Look north. The bottom of the route is in view across the road.
Watch for: If the road is closed, add about 1.2 miles each way from the La Plata trailhead.
2
Leave the road 10,400' · 0.05 mi
Cross the ditch beside the road. Below the gully, head northeast and keep to the left edge of the avalanche runout.
Watch for: Expect some brush and fallen trees.
3
Narrow spot where the gully starts 11,000' · 0.5 mi
After about 600 feet of climbing you reach a narrow choke. If snow fills it, go straight up. If it is dry, cross to the right of the stream, climb over the rock outcrop and drop back into the gully about 100 feet higher.
Watch for: Wet rock in the choke is slick.
4
Narrow couloir 11,500' · 0.8 mi
Put on crampons and take out your axe. Climb straight up the narrow part of the couloir.
Watch for: Helmet on. Snow and rock can fall down this narrow section.
5
Gully opens up 12,000' · 1.1 mi
Above about 12,000 feet the terrain gets easier and the gully widens. The route is clear, but you still cannot see the summit.
6
Steepest part of the gully 13,000' · 1.6 mi
Keep climbing north and then northeast. The slope gets gradually steeper and reaches about 37 degrees at its steepest.
Watch for: A slip here could turn into a long slide. Be ready to self-arrest.
7
Top of the gully 13,400' · 1.8 mi
The slope gets less steep near 13,400 feet, a little under the summit ridge. Keep heading northeast until the summit bump comes into view on your left.
8
Lackawanna Peak summit 13,826' · 2 mi
Walk about 0.1 mile north to the high point. Take a moment to look back down the gully before you descend.
Getting down
Most climbers go back down the same gully. Face into the slope on the steepest parts if the snow is firm. If the snow has turned soft and slushy, move carefully and quickly, and watch for wet slides. If there is no snow at the choke, take the same bypass as before, staying right of the stream.
If things go wrong
The only practical way off is back down the gully. It is short, so you can lose height fast. If the snow is unstable, if rock is falling, or if the weather turns, go down right away. The road is always directly below you. Call 911 if someone is hurt and you have signal.
Other routes
Every way up Lackawanna Peak we list, with its class.
This describes the route in its usual season. Distances and elevations are close estimates for planning. Snow, ice, rockfall, a washed-out road or an afternoon storm can make it a very different climb. Check recent conditions the week you go and turn around when the day tells you to.