Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
This is a technical climb. Falls here can be fatal. It is for experienced climbers who are comfortable on steep, exposed rock and can decide when to turn back.
Technical route · Southwest Ridge
Overview
The Southwest Ridge of Gladstone Peak is a technical route. It follows the ridge from the Mount Wilson saddle to Gladstone's summit, with Class 5 climbing in the 5.5 to 5.7 range, narrow exposed crest, and very loose talus. It is for experienced climbers only.
It can be done on its own or added to a Wilson group day. It is far harder than Gladstone's usual North Ridge, which is the way most people come down. Expect a steep rock headwall, balancy moves on teetering blocks, and long stretches where a fall would be serious.
The day covers about 11 miles and 4,500 feet of gain from the Rock of Ages trailhead. Plan on 10 to 13 hours, and more if you rope up.
Plan of the day
Start by
By 4:30 a.m. The approach is long and the ridge is slow, with no easy exit once you commit.
Turnaround
If you are not at the Wilson-Gladstone saddle by about 9 a.m., or clouds are forming, do not start the ridge. Go home or pick an easier objective.
Crux
The large headwall on the ridge. One line goes up a chimney on its far left side at about 5.5. Other lines look harder.
Route-finding
Moderate to hard. The approach follows the Rock of Ages route into upper Navajo Basin. On the ridge, stay close to the crest and look for the easiest line around the first step and up the headwall.
Water
Streams in the lower basins in early summer. None on the ridge. Carry 3 liters and a filter.
From Ridgway, take Colorado 62 over Dallas Divide to Placerville. Turn left onto Colorado 145 and drive about 6.7 miles. Make a right on the dirt Silver Pick road. The trailhead is about 8.5 miles from here.
After about 4 miles, turn right onto Forest Road 622. Drive about 2.3 miles more and turn right onto Forest Road 645. After about 2.2 miles you reach the Rock of Ages trailhead, which sits at roughly 10,350 feet. About a mile up FR 645 you must drive through Big Bear Creek, which is usually manageable by mid-July. There are a few marked campsites along this road.
TundraRidgeTalus and screeExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Rock of Ages trailhead 10,350' · 0 mi
Start up the Rock of Ages approach used for Mount Wilson's North Slopes. The trail climbs steadily toward the high saddle west of Navajo Basin.
2
Upper approach 11,800' · 2 mi
The trail climbs out of the trees into open terrain. Keep following it toward the Rock of Ages saddle.
Watch for: You are above treeline from here. Check the weather.
3
Rock of Ages saddle 13,000' · 3.2 mi
Cross the saddle and look east. You can see the upper basin, the Wilson-Gladstone saddle and the ridge you will climb.
Watch for: Note Gladstone's North Ridge from here. You will use it to come down.
4
Upper Navajo Basin 12,400' · 3.8 mi
Drop into the east end of Navajo Basin. Follow the start of the Mount Wilson North Slopes route up the rocky slopes.
5
Contour toward the saddle 13,000' · 4.3 mi
Near 13,000 feet, leave the Wilson route and traverse east across the slope toward the saddle between Mount Wilson and Gladstone.
Watch for: Early in the season, snow and the small glacier can fill this area. An ice axe and crampons may be needed.
6
Wilson-Gladstone saddle 13,200' · 4.6 mi
The saddle is near 13,200 feet. This is where the real difficulties start. Gear up here if you plan to rope up.
Watch for: Last good place to turn back.
7
First step on the ridge 13,350' · 4.7 mi
A steep step blocks the ridge. It can be climbed straight on at about 5.5 to 5.7, or you can avoid it on the south side.
8
The headwall 13,500' · 4.9 mi
Get back on the ridge at a large buttress. Many lines look hard. A chimney on the far left side goes at about 5.5. Above it, work back southeast through steep ground to the top of the headwall.
Watch for: This is the crux. Exposure is big and a fall would be very serious.
9
Narrow loose ridge 13,700' · 5.2 mi
Continue along a long, narrow ridge. You will pass several spots where large blocks rock under your weight, and a lot of very loose talus.
Watch for: Test every hold. Keep rope and people out of the fall line of loose rock.
10
Summit of Gladstone Peak 13,923' · 5.5 mi
The ridge leads to the top. Look back at the narrow ridge and Mount Wilson behind it.
Getting down
Descend Gladstone's North Ridge until you reach the Rock of Ages saddle. This is much easier than the Southwest Ridge but is still loose, steep and exposed in places. From the saddle, follow the Rock of Ages trail back to the trailhead.
If things go wrong
Before the Wilson-Gladstone saddle, simply reverse your path through Navajo Basin and over the Rock of Ages saddle. Once past the headwall there is no good way off the ridge except forward to the summit and down the North Ridge, or a slow retreat with rappels. Do not start the ridge unless the weather and your team are both solid. In an emergency, call 911 if you have signal, and expect a long wait for help in this remote area.
Other routes
Every way up Gladstone Peak we list, with its class.
This describes the route in its usual season. Distances and elevations are close estimates for planning. Snow, ice, rockfall, a washed-out road or an afternoon storm can make it a very different climb. Check recent conditions the week you go and turn around when the day tells you to.