Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
Centennial 13er · French, Frasco and Casco
Overview
Casco Peak is a rugged Sawatch summit at the head of the South Halfmoon Creek basin, southwest of Leadville. The usual way to climb it is a loop: walk an old mining road up the basin, climb French Mountain, follow the high ridge over Frasco Benchmark, then scramble along the rougher ridge to Casco. You come down Casco's gentler southeast ridge and drop back into the basin.
Most of the day is Class 2 on tundra, scree and talus. The ridge between Frasco and Casco is the hard part. It is broken by rock ribs and big blocks that you climb over, and it earns the difficult Class 2 rating, with optional Class 3 moves if you stay right on the crest. The loop is long, stays high for hours, and has no quick exit from the ridge.
The loop is about 11.75 miles with about 4,600 feet of gain. Plan on 9 to 11 hours. It suits fit hikers who are comfortable on loose rock and able to judge weather far from shelter. The creek crossings at the start can be serious in early summer.
Plan of the day
Start by
By 5 a.m. You will be above 13,000 feet for several hours, crossing three summits on an exposed ridge.
Turnaround
If you are not on French Mountain by 10 a.m., or clouds are building by the time you reach Frasco, do not continue to Casco. Drop back into the basin instead.
Crux
The ridge from Frasco to the Frasco-Casco saddle, where you cross four rock ribs and a jumble of large blocks around Point 13,470.
Route-finding
The road is easy to follow up the basin. Leaving the road for French takes some care through willows and trees. On the ridges, the route is obvious in clear weather. In clouds, do not wander onto side ridges.
Water
Halfmoon Creek, South Halfmoon Creek and several side streams cross the approach. Nothing on the ridges. Fill up before you leave the streams near 12,300 feet, and filter everything.
From Leadville, drive about 3 miles southwest on US 24 to where the highway bends sharply south. Turn right (west) on Highway 300, cross the railroad tracks and go 0.8 mile. Turn left on County Road 11 and go 1.3 miles to a fork. Bear right to stay on CR 11, which becomes Forest Road 110. Follow the graded road about 5 miles past three campgrounds to the Mount Massive and Mount Elbert trailheads, about 7 miles from US 24.
Low-clearance cars should park at the Massive trailhead. With better clearance you can drive about 2.1 more miles west on FR 110 to the turn for FR 110J, and then down to Halfmoon Creek. Park near the creek; this is where the route starts. Only short, high-clearance 4WD vehicles should try driving farther: the ford of South Halfmoon Creek about a mile up has stopped many vehicles, and there is almost no room to park or turn around at it. Campgrounds along Halfmoon Creek are first-come, first-served and fill on summer weekends.
RoadTrail in the treesTundraTalus and screeRidgeScramblingExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Halfmoon Creek crossing 10,290' · 0 mi
Start at Halfmoon Creek where FR 110J crosses it. Unless a bridge is in place, this is a ford. In runoff season the water is fast and cold.
Watch for: Do not cross fast, deep water. If it looks dangerous, turn around.
2
Road switchbacks 10,500' · 0.6 mi
Walk south up FR 110J. It climbs about 200 feet above the creek, then makes a long bend west and back southeast.
3
South Halfmoon Creek ford 10,700' · 1.1 mi
The road reaches South Halfmoon Creek. Find a way across by wading or rock-hopping. This ford is the one that stops most vehicles.
Watch for: Slippery rocks and strong current in early summer.
4
Middle basin road 11,200' · 2.3 mi
Keep walking the road up the open South Halfmoon basin. The peaks you will climb line the skyline to the west and south.
5
Leave the road 11,725' · 3.6 mi
At about 11,725 feet the road passes through its last group of trees in the basin. Just after crossing a branch of the creek, leave the road heading west. Use the trees to skirt willows and cross the next creek branch.
Watch for: Mark this spot on your GPS. You rejoin the road on the way down.
6
Willows and trees 11,850' · 3.8 mi
Climb west-northwest about 100 feet through willows to another group of trees. Stay on the north side of the stream and in the open trees to avoid the worst willows.
7
Flat above 12,300 feet 12,300' · 4.1 mi
Follow the stream to where the ground levels out. A large patch of willows sits here; walk around its north side. Fill water here if needed.
Watch for: Last water of the day.
8
Base of the slope 12,450' · 4.3 mi
At the west end of the willows the slope steepens toward French Mountain. Head up and slightly right, aiming for French's southeast ridge. Steer around the rock outcrops and gullies on this slope.
9
French southeast ridge 13,500' · 4.75 mi
The grassy slope leads to the southeast ridge. Now the ground turns to rubble, scree and patches of tundra. Follow the ridge up.
10
French Mountain 13,940' · 5 mi
The first summit. Mount Massive fills the view to the north. Look southwest along the ridge to Frasco and Casco and study the rougher ridge ahead.
Watch for: Decide here whether you have the time and weather for the full traverse.
11
French-Frasco saddle 13,620' · 5.3 mi
Walk west-southwest along the crest and drop about 300 feet to the saddle. The ridge is easy walking on rock and tundra.
12
Frasco Benchmark 13,876' · 5.6 mi
Climb about 250 feet to Frasco. The ground gets rockier with a few outcrops, but it stays Class 2. From the top, the ridge south to Casco looks rough. It is.
13
Rock ribs near Point 13,470 13,470' · 6 mi
Descend south, first on small rubble and scree, then tundra. Near 13,540 feet you reach a patch of dirt and scree. Past it, stay on the crest and cross four rock ribs and big blocks, going over Point 13,470.
Watch for: Slow, blocky ground. Test holds; a fall here would be serious.
14
Frasco-Casco saddle 13,260' · 6.15 mi
One last rocky section drops you to the saddle. From here the climb is on low tundra with embedded rock.
15
Summit 13,905' · 6.5 mi
The final stretch turns rocky again with slabs, ledges and large blocks. The summit is a big rock outcrop with little room to sit. Look down into the South Halfmoon basin and south to La Plata Peak.
Watch for: Small, rocky top. Keep your footing.
Landmarks to know
Halfmoon Creek ford at the start of FR 110J
South Halfmoon Creek ford about a mile up the road
Last cluster of trees along the road near 11,725 feet
Large willow patch on a flat near 12,300 feet
French Mountain's southeast ridge and rocky summit
Frasco Benchmark, the middle summit on the ridge
Rock ribs and blocks around Point 13,470
Casco's blocky summit outcrop above the basin
Getting down
From Casco, go down the southeast ridge. It is easier than the way you came, mostly low tundra with embedded rock. Follow it down to about 13,200 feet, then leave the ridge and drop east-northeast into the South Halfmoon basin. The old road is easy to see below; aim for it and follow it back out.
Early in the season this slope can hold snow. Only glissade if the snow is firm and the runout is clear of rocks. Wet, slushy spring snow on this slope can slide and carry a person into rocks below. At the end of the day, take care at both creek fords, which can run higher in the afternoon.
If things go wrong
Before French, you can simply turn back to the road. Between French and Frasco, the grassy slopes east of the French-Frasco saddle lead back down into the basin. Once past Frasco, the fastest way off is usually to keep going to Casco and use its southeast ridge, or to drop east from the Frasco-Casco saddle only if the slope below looks like easy grass and scree. If lightning threatens, get off the ridge crest and down into the basin as fast as is safe. If someone is hurt, stabilize them, keep them warm and call 911; the road in the basin is where rescuers can reach most easily.
3D flyover
Press play to fly the French, Frasco and Casco. The graph shows elevation along the way and how much you gain each mile. Open full screen.
For planning only. The line is traced from open map data, not walked in the field, and off-trail parts are drawn straight. Load it in your GPS app to see the route, but navigate with your eyes, a map and the route description.
See the trail on video
A climb of this route filmed by Karl Decker Presents. The video belongs to them and only plays when you press play. This video covers French, Frasco and Casco together.
Jump to
Other routes
Every way up Casco Peak we list, with its class.
French, Frasco and Cascothis routeClass 2+ 11.75 mi
This describes the route on a dry summer day. Snow, ice, a washed-out road or an afternoon storm can make it a very different climb. Check recent conditions the week you go and turn around when the day tells you to.