South Slope

Overview

This is a short, direct snow climb up the south side of Mount Democrat from Kite Lake. The slope has a line of rock outcrops across its middle that form several chutes. You climb one of these chutes, pass through the rock band, and walk the easier upper slope to the top.

It is rated Difficult Class 2 with moderate snow. It is a good early-season objective for climbers with basic ice axe and crampon skills. It is steeper and more direct than the standard route from the same trailhead.

It is only about 2.5 miles round trip with 2,150 feet of gain. Most parties take 3 to 5 hours. Because the trailhead is high, you are above treeline from the start.

Plan of the day

Getting to the trailhead

Take Colorado 9 to Alma. A small Kite Lake sign stands on the highway's west side in the middle of town. Turn there and drive through a short residential area.

Kite Lake is about 6 miles farther on, and the road gets rougher for its final mile. In dry weather, a 2WD car with good clearance can make it to a spot a couple hundred yards short of the lot. There are restrooms and some campsites, and a parking fee is charged. Early in the season the road may still be blocked by snow lower down.

Next: the route, step by step →

The route

1. 1

   Kite Lake trailhead 12,000' · 0 mi

   Look up at Democrat's south slope. Find the band of rock outcrops across the middle. The gaps in it are the chutes you will use. Go northwest, aiming for a small basin that sits left of the southeast slope.

2. 2

   Small basin 12,500' · 0.5 mi

   Enter the small basin and walk to its west end.

3. 3

   Above Lake Emma 12,800' · 0.75 mi

   Climb 200 feet or more out of the west end of the basin. The ground gets easier once you are a bit higher than Lake Emma and to its northwest.

4. 4

   Below the chutes 13,100' · 0.95 mi

   Head northwest toward the rock band. Angle up and right onto steeper ground below the chutes. Put on crampons and helmet here if you have not already.

   Watch for: The slope steepens quickly. Be ready to self-arrest.

5. 5

   Chute through the rock band 13,400' · 1.05 mi

   Enter the first chute, or traverse left to pick another. Climb it and pass through the outcrops near 13,400 feet.

   Watch for: This is the crux. Watch for rockfall and for rock poking through thin snow.

6. 6

   Upper slope 13,800' · 1.15 mi

   Once past the rock band, the ground is easier. Hike north-northwest up the broad upper slope.

7. 7

   Summit of Mount Democrat 14,154' · 1.25 mi

   Continue to the summit.

Getting down

You can go back down the same chute if the snow is still firm. Face in on the steepest part. If the snow has softened or you prefer a gentler way, descend the standard route, which also returns to Kite Lake.

If things go wrong

The route is short, so turning around at any point gets you back to the lake quickly. Below the rock band the slope is gentler and easy to retreat on. If snow gets soft or weather turns, head down right away.

Other routes

Every way up Mount Democrat we list, with its class.

• East SlopeClass 2 4 mi
• South Slope this routeClass 2+ 2.5 mi
• DecalibronClass 2 7.5 mi