Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
Alternate route · North Ridge via South Zapata Creek
Overview
This route climbs Ellingwood Point from the north, starting at the Zapata Falls trailhead near the Great Sand Dunes. It follows the South Zapata Lake trail up a long, wild valley, then climbs a gully to the west ridge and follows the north ridge to the summit. The top is easy Class 3.
It suits experienced hikers who are fine on steep talus and short scrambles and who want a quiet route away from the rough Lake Como road. It is about 12.5 miles round trip with roughly 5,200 feet of gain. The north face of Ellingwood towers over the lake, and the east side of the north ridge drops off sharply.
There are two ways from the lake to the ridge. The C2 couloir is shorter but may hold snow into midsummer. The C3 gully melts out sooner but adds about half a mile each way and some extra climbing over ridge bumps. Plan on 10 to 12 hours round trip.
Plan of the day
Start by
By 4 a.m. It is almost 5 miles to the lake, and the hard climbing starts after that.
Turnaround
If you are not at South Zapata Lake by 8:30 a.m., or not on the west ridge by 10 a.m., turn around. Storms over the Sangres build quickly.
Crux
The last 100 feet of the north ridge, with easy Class 3 moves near the big drop on the east side. The upper C2 couloir is also steep and loose; stay in the right branch.
Route-finding
Moderate to hard above the lake. Pick your gully carefully and do not enter the Crossfire Couloir. Once you top out of the C3 gully, keep to the ridge crest instead of crossing the south slope.
Water
South Zapata Creek and its side streams are near the trail most of the way, and South Zapata Lake is at 4.8 miles. Filter or treat it. There is no water above the lake.
Trail in the treesTundraTalus and screeRidgeScramblingExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Zapata Falls trailhead 9,000' · 0 mi
Walk up the old dirt track toward Zapata Falls.
2
South Zapata Lake trail junction 9,100' · 0.4 mi
Go right on the South Zapata Lake trail. It zigzags up to the ridge that lies south of Zapata Creek, with views of the sand dunes to the north.
3
First creek crossing 9,500' · 1.2 mi
Cross the creek. A set of very steep switchbacks follows, climbing high above the stream. Up at the end of the valley, Ellingwood Point appears.
4
California Gulch 10,400' · 2.3 mi
The grade eases along a wide shelf. Cross California Gulch and climb a little more before the trail levels out.
5
North Fork crossing 10,250' · 2.5 mi
The trail drops about 160 feet toward the creek. At the bottom you reach the North Fork of South Zapata Creek; cross it.
Watch for: Remember this dip. You will have to climb it on the way out.
6
Cross South Zapata Creek 11,200' · 3.75 mi
The trail climbs again. Near 3.75 miles, cross South Zapata Creek so you are on its west bank.
7
Tree line 11,500' · 4 mi
Leave the trees and continue up the open valley.
8
South Zapata Lake 11,900' · 4.8 mi
The lake sits below the 1,200-foot north face of Ellingwood. Decide here between the C2 couloir (left, shorter) and the C3 gully (further up the basin to the right).
Watch for: Do not climb the Crossfire Couloir, just left of the C2. With or without snow, this is dangerous, very steep ground.
9
Base of the C2 couloir 12,300' · 5.1 mi
For the C2, go left at the lake outlet on a faint path around a rock glacier to the talus cone below the couloir. For the C3, go right up grassy benches and talus to a small tarn below the gully.
Watch for: The C2 may hold snow into summer. With snow, it is a moderate snow climb and needs an axe and crampons.
10
Top of the gully on the west ridge 13,300' · 5.6 mi
Climb the C2 on its right side where the rock is more solid, and take the right branch near the top. Coming from the C3, get up on the crest and go east across several bumps; they lead to the top of the C2.
Watch for: Do not traverse the south side of the west ridge. It is steep, loose and crossed by dangerous gullies.
11
North ridge 13,700' · 5.9 mi
Climb steep talus up the west ridge until you reach the north ridge. The rest of the route is now in view.
12
Upper north ridge 13,950' · 6.15 mi
Follow the ridge, staying on the talus on the west side, away from the sheer drop to the east. The last 100 feet is easy Class 3 climbing up to the summit ridge.
Watch for: Only here do you get close to the east-side drop. Test holds and move carefully.
13
Summit of Ellingwood Point 14,057' · 6.25 mi
Once on the summit ridge, go left; about 50 feet of easy scrambling leads to the top.
Getting down
Most people return the same way. Go back down the north ridge and west ridge to the gully you came up, then down to South Zapata Lake and out the trail. On the C2, stay in the right branch and move slowly on the loose rock. Save some energy for the short climb out of the North Fork dip. Strong parties can instead traverse to Blanca Peak if the weather is good, but that adds more hard terrain and time.
If things go wrong
Your best escape from high on the route is back down the way you came to the lake. Do not try shortcuts down other gullies, and never use the Crossfire Couloir. Below the lake, the trail is clear all the way to the trailhead. If a storm arrives on the ridge, descend right away. In an emergency, call 911 if you have signal; this valley is remote and help may take a long time.
Other routes
Every way up Ellingwood Point we list, with its class.
This describes the route in its usual season. Distances and elevations are close estimates for planning. Snow, ice, rockfall, a washed-out road or an afternoon storm can make it a very different climb. Check recent conditions the week you go and turn around when the day tells you to.
