Technical climb: Class 3 to Class 4, severe exposure and rockfall
Lightning Pyramid is climbed on steep, crumbling Elk Range rock. The couloir is very narrow and anything knocked loose shoots down its whole length. The rib beside it is exposed with at least one Class 4 move. This page is an outline, not a move-by-move guide.
DifficultyClass 4
Round trip10.5 mi
Elevation gain4,145'
TrailheadMaroon Lake
Trailhead elevation9,600'
Conditions on the summit
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Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
Colorado 13er · West Couloir and Rib from West Maroon Creek
Overview
Lightning Pyramid is one of three rough summits on the ridge running south from Pyramid Peak. From Maroon Lake you hike about 3.75 miles up the West Maroon Trail, cross the creek, climb into a hidden basin, and go straight up the steep couloir that ends at the saddle between Thunder Pyramid and Lightning Pyramid.
When dry, the couloir itself is rough Class 3 or easy Class 4. It is 8 to 10 feet wide in spots and full of loose rock. The rock rib on its right is steadier but exposed, with close to 1,200 feet of steady scrambling and at least one Class 4 move. Recent mapping shows Lightning Pyramid is now an unranked point, but it is still on many climbers' lists.
The round trip is about 10.5 miles with 4,145 feet of gain when climbed with Thunder Pyramid. From a camp near the creek crossing it is about 3 miles and 3,265 feet.
Plan of the day
Start by
From a camp near the creek crossing, by 5:30 a.m.
Turnaround
Be at the foot of the couloir by 8 a.m. and on the summit by 11 a.m.
Crux
The narrow couloir, or the exposed rib beside it with a Class 4 move.
Route-finding
Moderate. From the upper basin, find the couloir leading to the Thunder-Lightning saddle. You should be almost straight west of it. A talus cone about 400 feet high spreads out below it.
Water
West Maroon Creek and streams in the upper basin. Filter it.
From the roundabout on Highway 82 just west of Aspen, take Maroon Creek Road (County Road 13) south toward Aspen Highlands and Maroon Lake. About 4.7 miles in is the entrance station, where you pay a fee.
In summer the road is limited: you need a parking reservation, often made months ahead, or you ride the shuttle bus from the Aspen Highlands lot. Check the White River National Forest website for this year's rules before you go. There is no camping at Maroon Lake. Silver Bar, Silver Bell and Silver Queen campgrounds along the road are small, reservable and usually full.
Trail in the treesTalus and screeTundraSnow or couloirExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Maroon Lake trailhead 9,600' · 0 mi
Walk along the north and west side of Maroon Lake on the busy Crater Lake Trail. Overnight campers must get a permit at the trailhead and carry a bear canister.
2
Crater Lake 10,080' · 1.8 mi
The trail climbs steadily through old moraine to Crater Lake. At the junction, the right fork goes to Buckskin Pass. Stay left on the trail that runs along the west side of the lake toward West Maroon Pass.
3
West Maroon Creek 10,300' · 2.8 mi
South of the lake the trail climbs about 100 feet, drops again across a talus slope, and weaves through willows that will soak you after rain.
4
First creek crossing 10,500' · 3.75 mi
Here the trail fords West Maroon Creek to its east bank. There are campsites shortly before the crossing and within half a mile after it. This is the base for the peaks on the ridge south of Pyramid Peak.
Watch for: Check current camping rules. They have been getting stricter.
5
Cross the creek 10,500' · 3.8 mi
Leave the trail and get across the creek however you can. There may be no log or bridge.
Watch for: Can be high and cold in early summer.
6
Benches and cliff bands 11,200' · 4.2 mi
Head east up through the trees, linking game trails and climber paths through a series of small cliffs and benches. A cairned path leads through a boulder field and up beside a steep gully to a higher bench.
7
Hidden upper basin 11,800' · 4.5 mi
The way opens up into a hidden upper basin west of Thunder and Lightning Pyramid. Stop here and pick out each summit before going on.
8
Talus cone 12,200' · 4.8 mi
Climb the large talus cone to where it pinches into the couloir.
9
Couloir or rib 13,300' · 5.1 mi
Either climb the couloir, or stay on the rock rib to its right. Several hundred feet up, the couloir squeezes through a very narrow section over sloping rock. Early in summer it can be packed with hard snow.
Watch for: If anyone is in or above the couloir, do not go in. Helmets are a must.
10
Summit ridge 13,600' · 5.2 mi
The angle eases near the ridge. The rib tops out a couple hundred feet north of the summit.
11
Summit 13,729' · 5.25 mi
A short, easy scramble takes you to the top. Thunder Pyramid is the next summit north.
Getting down
When dry and empty of other people, the couloir is the quickest way down. It can be descended facing out, with a few short stemming moves. Or continue north along the ridge to Thunder Pyramid and descend its standard route.
If things go wrong
Below the couloir, the upper basin leads back to the creek crossing.
3D flyover
No 3D flyover for this peak
Above West Maroon Creek the route climbs a trailless basin and a steep couloir. A flyover only works when there is a set trail to trace. Without one, the line would be a guess, and a guess could send you the wrong way on the mountain. Use the step-by-step route with a good map and GPS track instead.
See the trail on video
No video yet
We haven’t found a good video of this route that matches the way we describe it. The route strip, junctions and 3D flyover show the way in the meantime.
Other routes
Every way up Lightning Pyramid we list, with its class.
Lightning Pyramid West Couloir/Ribthis routeClass 4 10.5 mi
This describes the route on a dry summer day. Most 13ers see few people, so there may be no one along behind you. Check recent conditions the week you go, carry a map, tell someone your plan, and turn around when the day tells you to.