North Basin and Northeast Ridge from West Maroon Creek
UN 13,642, 13,642'
DifficultyClass 3
Round trip11.5 mi
Elevation gain4,055'
TrailheadMaroon Lake
Trailhead elevation9,600'
Conditions on the summit
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Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
Colorado 13er · North Basin and Northeast Ridge from West Maroon Creek
Overview
Len Shoemaker Peak is the southern of the three rough 13ers on the ridge south of Pyramid Peak. From Maroon Lake you hike about 3.75 miles up the West Maroon Trail, cross the creek, climb into a hidden basin, walk south up the basin, and grind up loose rock to a saddle north of the summit. A short Class 3 ridge leads to the top.
It is Class 3 on typical Elk Range rock: red, crumbly and not to be trusted. Of the three peaks here it is the friendliest, but there is a lot of loose rubble and scree.
The round trip is about 11.5 miles with 4,055 feet of gain, or about 4 miles and 3,175 feet from a camp near the creek crossing. Strong parties climb all three peaks on the ridge in one long day.
Plan of the day
Start by
From a camp near the creek crossing, by 6 a.m.
Turnaround
Be at the 13,300-foot saddle by 11 a.m.
Crux
The last 400 feet of small boulders and scree up to the saddle, then small cliff bands on the ridge.
Route-finding
Moderate. Walk up the west side of the basin, where there is more grass, then bear southeast toward the saddle between Point 13,586 and the summit.
Water
West Maroon Creek and streams in the upper basin. Filter it.
From the roundabout on Highway 82 just west of Aspen, take Maroon Creek Road (County Road 13) south toward Aspen Highlands and Maroon Lake. About 4.7 miles in is the entrance station, where you pay a fee.
In summer the road is limited: you need a parking reservation, often made months ahead, or you ride the shuttle bus from the Aspen Highlands lot. Check the White River National Forest website for this year's rules before you go. There is no camping at Maroon Lake. Silver Bar, Silver Bell and Silver Queen campgrounds along the road are small, reservable and usually full.
Trail in the treesTalus and screeTundraScramblingExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Maroon Lake trailhead 9,600' · 0 mi
Walk along the north and west side of Maroon Lake on the busy Crater Lake Trail. Overnight campers must get a permit at the trailhead and carry a bear canister.
2
Crater Lake 10,080' · 1.8 mi
The trail climbs steadily through old moraine to Crater Lake. At the junction, the right fork goes to Buckskin Pass. Stay left on the trail that runs along the west side of the lake toward West Maroon Pass.
3
West Maroon Creek 10,300' · 2.8 mi
South of the lake the trail climbs about 100 feet, drops again across a talus slope, and weaves through willows that will soak you after rain.
4
First creek crossing 10,500' · 3.75 mi
Here the trail fords West Maroon Creek to its east bank. There are campsites shortly before the crossing and within half a mile after it. This is the base for the peaks on the ridge south of Pyramid Peak.
Watch for: Check current camping rules. They have been getting stricter.
5
Cross the creek 10,500' · 3.8 mi
Leave the trail and get across the creek however you can. There may be no log or bridge.
Watch for: Can be high and cold in early summer.
6
Benches and cliff bands 11,200' · 4.2 mi
Head east up through the trees, linking game trails and climber paths through a series of small cliffs and benches. A cairned path leads through a boulder field and up beside a steep gully to a higher bench.
7
Hidden upper basin 11,800' · 4.5 mi
The way opens up into a hidden upper basin west of Thunder and Lightning Pyramid. Stop here and pick out each summit before going on.
8
West side of the basin 12,100' · 5 mi
Walk south up the basin, keeping west of the creek and using grass and solid rock where you can. The east side is almost all talus.
Watch for: North-facing snow can linger into summer. Bring an ice axe.
9
Bear southeast 12,500' · 5.2 mi
The slope steepens and the grass runs out. Above about 12,400 feet, aim southeast for the saddle north of the summit. A short ramp of boulders is covered in lichen and moss.
Watch for: Very slick when wet.
10
Saddle 13,300' · 5.5 mi
The last 400 feet to the saddle is all small boulders and scree.
Watch for: Poor footing. Keep spread out so you don't knock rocks onto each other.
11
Summit 13,642' · 5.75 mi
Turn south and follow the ridge. Weave through or around a few small cliff bands. Cairns mark parts of the way. It stays solid Class 3 without any big obstacles.
Getting down
Return to the saddle and go back down the same slope. It is loose; small boulders roll easily. If there is snow, you may be able to glissade. Then retrace the basin to your camp.
If things go wrong
From the saddle, head straight back down into the basin.
3D flyover
No 3D flyover for this peak
Above West Maroon Creek the route climbs a trailless basin and a loose ridge. A flyover only works when there is a set trail to trace. Without one, the line would be a guess, and a guess could send you the wrong way on the mountain. Use the step-by-step route with a good map and GPS track instead.
See the trail on video
No video yet
We haven’t found a good video of this route that matches the way we describe it. The route strip, junctions and 3D flyover show the way in the meantime.
Other routes
Every way up UN 13,642 we list, with its class.
"Len Shoemaker" North Basin/NE Ridgethis routeClass 3 11.5 mi
This describes the route on a dry summer day. Most 13ers see few people, so there may be no one along behind you. Check recent conditions the week you go, carry a map, tell someone your plan, and turn around when the day tells you to.