Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
Colorado 13er · East Face Couloir via Coffeepot Pass
Overview
UN 13,552 stands above Conundrum Hot Springs in the heart of the Elk Range. From the Pearl Pass Road north of Crested Butte, you hike to Twin Lakes, cross the pass above them and Coffeepot Pass into upper Conundrum Basin, walk to the saddle between UN 13,214 and this peak, and traverse the east face to a steep yellow couloir that leads to the summit ridge.
It is Class 3 on typical rotten Elk Range rock. The yellow couloir is about 500 feet of very steep, loose ground and gets worse near the top. The north ridge from the saddle may involve Class 4 and is not described here.
The round trip is about 9.4 miles with about 3,250 feet of gain (our estimate). Many people camp on the tundra benches beyond the pass above Twin Lakes, or in upper Conundrum Basin about three-quarters of a mile north of Coffeepot Pass, away from the crowds at Conundrum Hot Springs.
Plan of the day
Start by
By 6 a.m. from the trailhead, or 7 a.m. from a high camp.
Turnaround
Be at the foot of the yellow couloir by 10:30 a.m.
Crux
The steep, loose yellow couloir. Every step can send rocks down.
Route-finding
Moderate. From the saddle, contour around the grassy east flank, then find the yellow couloir that reaches the ridge just north of the summit.
Water
Middle Brush Creek, Twin Lakes and small ponds above them. Filter it.
From Gunnison, take Highway 135 north through Almont toward Crested Butte. About 2 miles before Crested Butte, turn right onto County Road 738, the Pearl Pass Road. It starts paved through a subdivision, then turns to gravel.
Passenger cars can go 4 to 5 miles, to just past where the East River comes in. Park at a primitive camping area on the right, just as the road starts to climb. With high clearance, keep going: stay right at a junction about a mile later, ford West Brush Creek, and drive about 4.5 more miles to the Twin Lakes parking, which turns off the road to the left.
There are good primitive campsites with some trees at the trailhead, often busy on weekends.
Trail in the treesTundraRidgeTalus and screeExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Twin Lakes trailhead 10,425' · 0 mi
Cross Middle Brush Creek (wade it or find a way across), climb north a little, then turn northwest on Trail 402 toward Twin Lakes.
Watch for: The crossing can be high in early summer.
2
Into the wilderness 10,900' · 1.5 mi
The trail crosses open ground and patches of high forest on the east side of the creek, then enters the Maroon-Snowmass Wilderness. Overnight visitors must fill out a permit at the boundary.
3
Willows 11,300' · 2.7 mi
About half a mile below the lakes the trail crosses to the west side of the creek and pushes through thick, wet willows. It can be hard to follow here.
4
Twin Lakes 11,580' · 3.2 mi
Reach the north end of the upper lake. There are a few campsites near the lower lake, and more on tundra benches above.
5
Pass above Twin Lakes 12,500' · 3.6 mi
A usable trail keeps climbing through lush flowers to the pass west-northwest of the lakes, then fades on the tundra benches beyond.
6
Coffeepot Pass 12,740' · 4 mi
Walk about a mile northwest over easy tundra to Coffeepot Pass and look down into upper Conundrum Basin.
7
Saddle 12,900' · 4.3 mi
Walk north-northwest over tundra to the saddle between UN 13,214 and UN 13,552.
8
East face 13,000' · 4.5 mi
Traverse a broad grassy slope around the east side of the peak. Beyond it, cross boulders and loose rock of every size.
9
Yellow couloir 13,450' · 4.65 mi
Climb the yellow couloir for close to 500 feet. It is about as steep as loose rock can sit, and footing gets worse the higher you go.
Watch for: Helmets essential. Never climb below another party.
10
Summit 13,552' · 4.7 mi
Come out on the ridge just north of the summit and scramble left over easier boulders to the top.
Getting down
Go back down the couloir with great care until it spreads into a boulder field. From a nearly flat spot around 12,800 feet, contour south back toward Coffeepot Pass or your camp.
If things go wrong
Below the couloir, the grassy east flank leads back to the saddle.
3D flyover
No 3D flyover for this peak
Past Twin Lakes the route crosses trailless tundra and climbs a steep, loose couloir. A flyover only works when there is a set trail to trace. Without one, the line would be a guess, and a guess could send you the wrong way on the mountain. Use the step-by-step route with a good map and GPS track instead.
See the trail on video
No video yet
We haven’t found a good video of this route that matches the way we describe it. The route strip, junctions and 3D flyover show the way in the meantime.
Other routes
Every way up UN 13,552 we list, with its class.
UN13,552 East Face Couloirthis routeClass 3 9.4 mi
This describes the route on a dry summer day. Most 13ers see few people, so there may be no one along behind you. Check recent conditions the week you go, carry a map, tell someone your plan, and turn around when the day tells you to.