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Elk Range · Colorado 13er · No. 328 of the 13ers

South Face from the Castle Basin Road

Malemute Peak, 13,318'

DifficultyClass 2
Round trip8.4 mi
Elevation gain3,120'
TrailheadCastle Creek
Trailhead elevation10,200'

Conditions on the summit

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Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.

Colorado 13er · South Face from the Castle Basin Road

Overview

Malemute Peak (also spelled Malamute) is the rocky peak between the Castle Peak basin and Cathedral Lake. From the Castle Creek ford you walk the road into the basin below Castle and Conundrum, leave it at a curve around 12,570 feet, and climb a short, tiresome boulder slope to a saddle and up a narrowing ridge.

It is Class 2 with a few Class 2+ moves, lots of loose boulders, and some drop-offs on both sides of the ridge. It looks harder from a distance than it is.

From the ford it is about 8.4 miles round trip with about 3,120 feet of gain. Mileage and gain are our estimates. With a good 4WD you can drive to the curve and make it about 1.2 miles and 780 feet round trip. It can also be climbed from Cathedral Lake.

Plan of the day

Start by

By 7 a.m. from the ford.

Turnaround

Be at the saddle west of the summit by 11 a.m.

Crux

About 400 feet of loose boulders to the saddle, then a narrow ridge.

Route-finding

Easy. Leave the road at the curve near 12,570 feet and head north to the first saddle west of the summit.

Water

Castle Creek and streams in the bowl. Filter it.

Getting to the trailhead

Trailhead

Castle Creek

Find it on a map

From the roundabout on Highway 82 just west of Aspen, take Castle Creek Road (County Road 15) about 11 miles to the old Ashcroft townsite. Continue 2 miles past the Toklat Lodge to a junction with a kiosk and room for several cars on the west side of the road. Low-clearance cars should park here.

Turn right onto the Pearl Pass Road (FR 102). It gets much rougher after about half a mile. After about 1.4 miles it fords Castle Creek, and there is a footbridge for hikers. We start the route at this ford. The ford can be deep during spring runoff.

Past the ford, a high-clearance 4WD can keep going, slowly, over very rocky road to the Pearl Pass junction and to the end of the road, in the high basin below Castle Peak's north side (about 12,775 feet). Fallen trees can block the way. There are no Forest Service campgrounds along the road, but there are a few primitive sites on FR 102 on both sides of the creek. Much of the land along Castle Creek Road is private.

Before you go

Check these the week of your climb.

Official forecast

The National Weather Service forecast for the summit area, hour by hour. Look for thunderstorm chances and wind above treeline.

NWS point forecast →

Directions to the trailhead

Castle Creek. Road conditions near the trailhead change after storms. Check your clearance and have a backup plan for a lower lot.

Get directions →

Roads and highways

Closures, construction and winter conditions on the highways that get you there.

COtrip road conditions →

Closures and fire rules

Trail closures, fire bans and other alerts from the Forest Service in Colorado. For the latest on your trailhead, call the local ranger district.

Forest Service alerts →

Snow on the route?

From fall through early summer, any snow slope can slide. Check the avalanche forecast before you go.

Avalanche forecast →

Cell signal

Most trailheads and many summits have little or no signal. Check coverage near the trailhead and carry a satellite messenger or beacon if you can.

FCC coverage map →

Less traffic, less margin

This describes the route on a dry summer day. Most 13ers see few people, so there may be no one along behind you. Check recent conditions the week you go, carry a map, tell someone your plan, and turn around when the day tells you to.