Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
Colorado 13er · South Ridge from UN 13,144
Overview
UN 13,223 looks straight across at the Maroon Bells from the head of Rustler Gulch. Most people climb UN 13,144 first, then either follow the connecting ridge north (Class 3) or drop about 600 feet of loose talus into the basin below and climb back to the ridge beyond the saddle.
The basin route is Class 2+, with a steep, gravelly climb back to the saddle and some ledge scrambling on layered red rock at the top. The ridge descent from UN 13,144 has at least one Class 3 move around a rock tower.
The round trip, returning over UN 13,144, is about 11 miles with about 4,700 feet of gain. Mileage and gain are our estimates.
Plan of the day
Start by
From a Rustler Gulch camp, by 6:30 a.m.
Turnaround
Be on UN 13,144 by 10 a.m.
Crux
The loose talus descent and the steep, gravelly climb back to the 12,800-foot saddle.
Route-finding
Moderate. You can see the whole route from UN 13,144. Drop north from between its two summits, then contour north to the saddle.
From Gunnison, take Highway 135 north to Crested Butte. Stay on the main road through town and continue north on County Road 317 to Mt. Crested Butte. Past the condos the pavement ends; measure from there.
At about 3.4 miles you pass Gothic, a research town with a small visitor center. Parking is limited to marked spots along this busy road. Gothic Campground (6 sites) is at about 5.3 miles. From June 15 to August 15, you may only camp in designated sites anywhere in this part of the East River valley.
At about 6.2 miles, FR 317.2B turns off for Rustler Gulch. Regular cars park here, and you wade the East River. Beaver dams have made the old vehicle ford a deep pool (as of 2025), so only a high-clearance 4WD should try it, ideally with a winch. Past the ford the road climbs steeply 0.7 mile to a gate with room for two or three cars.
Trail in the treesScramblingTundraRidgeExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Rustler Gulch turnoff 9,716' · 0 mi
Wade the East River and walk up the road.
Watch for: Can be deep in early summer.
2
Gate 10,050' · 0.9 mi
Past the gate, follow the old road north through a meadow, then a muddy, horse-churned stretch of forest.
3
Creek crossing 10,300' · 1.6 mi
Flower meadows lead to a creek crossing. You may need to take off your boots, or follow a side path right along the creek to a spot with small logs.
4
Upper Rustler Gulch 10,700' · 2.2 mi
The trail heads north, then turns east into the upper gulch through huge wildflower meadows.
5
Campsite 10,865' · 2.5 mi
Where the trail has clearly turned east and the creek tumbles over rock ledges below, cross the creek and climb east through fallen timber. Near the east edge of the trees is a small campsite for two tents, the only good spot here that doesn't flatten flowers.
Watch for: Take care not to trample the meadows.
6
Lower basin 12,060' · 3.3 mi
Cross the creek and the main trail and angle almost due east up steep, flowery slopes to a small, flat, marshy basin full of marsh marigolds.
7
Milky lake 12,580' · 3.8 mi
Continue northeast on lush tundra to an upper basin with a small, milky-turquoise lake.
8
Broad ridge 12,800' · 4.1 mi
Climb a steep slope with a game trail onto a broad ridge of flowers and willows. Watch for deer.
9
Saddle 13,000' · 4.3 mi
Leave the ridge and cross a shallow, rubbly basin to the saddle just west of the first summit.
10
Summit 13,144' · 4.5 mi
Walk southeast along the summit ridge to the true high point.
11
Talus descent 12,550' · 4.8 mi
From about midway between UN 13,144's two summits, go down about 600 feet of loose talus and scree to the north. Or follow the ridge north, which starts with a Class 3 move around a rock tower.
Watch for: Poles or an ice axe help.
12
Saddle 12,800' · 5.1 mi
Contour north, then climb a very steep slope of gravel and sandy dirt to the saddle, going around some rock outcrops.
13
False summit 13,100' · 5.35 mi
Follow the ridge north on red rock and go around the false summit.
14
Summit 13,223' · 5.5 mi
Continue northeast and scramble up ledges of layered red rock to the small summit. Big view of the Maroon Bells.
Getting down
Return over UN 13,144. Climbing back out of the basin is easier on loose ramps through the talus that swing southeast, then south and southwest to the ridge.
If things go wrong
From the basin, you can head back to UN 13,144 or down toward the gulch.
3D flyover
No 3D flyover for this peak
Above the Rustler Gulch trail the route is trailless. A flyover only works when there is a set trail to trace. Without one, the line would be a guess, and a guess could send you the wrong way on the mountain. Use the step-by-step route with a good map and GPS track instead.
See the trail on video
No video yet
We haven’t found a good video of this route that matches the way we describe it. The route strip, junctions and 3D flyover show the way in the meantime.
This describes the route on a dry summer day. Most 13ers see few people, so there may be no one along behind you. Check recent conditions the week you go, carry a map, tell someone your plan, and turn around when the day tells you to.