Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
Colorado 13er · East Ridge via the Moon Lake Trail
Overview
UN 13,067 is a remote bump on Clark Peak's east ridge, and one of the hardest 13ers to reach in the Elk Range. From the Snowmass Creek trailhead you wade Snowmass Creek, climb the West Snowmass/Haystack trail, follow the unofficial Moon Lake trail, then cross two ridges, a talus basin and a 600-foot couloir before a fun 400-foot Class 3 scramble to the top.
It is Class 3. The couloir is loose and muddy, the route-finding is hard, and the true summit sits about 50 yards west of the first one, across a short, exposed crossing on big blocks, one of which wobbles.
The round trip is about 14.25 miles with 4,730 feet of gain. One strong party took over 15 hours after losing the Moon Lake trail. Descending the south couloir to Bear Creek is not a shortcut.
Plan of the day
Start by
By 5 a.m. at the latest.
Turnaround
Be at the foot of the 600-foot couloir by 10:30 a.m.
Crux
Route-finding to the couloir, the loose couloir itself, and the short exposed crossing to the true summit.
Route-finding
Very difficult. Take the higher Moon Lake trail across open grassy slopes from the packers' campsite meadow. Carry a GPS with a planned track.
Water
Snowmass Creek, West Snowmass Creek and streams on the way. Filter it.
On Highway 82, about 4 miles up-valley from Basalt toward Aspen, turn south at the traffic light in the small town of Snowmass. After about 2 miles, go left at the T. Follow this road east and south: paved for 4 to 5 miles, then good gravel for about 4 more to a bridge over Snowmass Creek.
Past the bridge the road climbs to a junction. Turn right and go a few hundred yards south, past the East Snowmass trailhead, to where the road ends at the Snowmass Creek trailhead. One lot serves both trails and it overflows on summer weekends. There is no campground; car camping only. A locked ranch gate blocks the road beyond.
Trail in the treesRidgeTalus and screeScramblingExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Snowmass Creek trailhead 8,400' · 0 mi
Go through the gate (close it behind you) and climb about 200 feet, then contour south above the ranch on Trail 1975.
2
West Snowmass junction 8,500' · 1.5 mi
A side trail drops to the creek toward West Snowmass Creek. Keep going south on the main trail.
3
Wade Snowmass Creek 8,450' · 1.6 mi
Take the side trail down to the creek and wade across between willows to the West Snowmass Creek trail (2187).
Watch for: Can be deep in early summer.
4
Aspen climb 9,800' · 2.8 mi
Cross a meadow, pass a ditch, and climb steeply through aspens on a well-used horse trail to a leveling spot with evergreens and an old campsite.
Watch for: Don't take the branch toward the basin below Haystack Mountain.
5
Packers' meadow 10,100' · 3.5 mi
Cross a long meadow, then drop a little to another meadow by the creek with good campsites.
6
Moon Lake trail 10,400' · 4.2 mi
The unofficial Moon Lake trail leaves this meadow higher up than you'd expect, cutting across open grassy slopes well above the creek. Follow it to a meadow near 10,400 feet.
Watch for: The lower, cairned paths lead into deadfall. Don't follow them.
7
First saddle 12,000' · 5 mi
Climb an open avalanche slope to a saddle on the northeast ridge of Point 12,903.
8
Notch 12,300' · 5.5 mi
Contour south to a grassy spot below the east ridge of Point 12,903, then climb a steep slope into a narrow couloir to a notch in that ridge.
9
Talus basin 11,800' · 5.8 mi
On the far side, pick a way down through low trees onto talus. Your peak comes into view.
10
Base of the couloir 12,200' · 6.4 mi
Cross talus and patches of tundra, holding your height. Scramble up big blocks and sloping rock onto a bench and traverse to the foot of the big couloir just east of the peak.
11
Couloir 12,700' · 6.6 mi
Climb about 600 feet up the couloir on snow or loose, muddy rock.
Watch for: Helmets. Crampons or microspikes early in summer.
12
East ridge 13,050' · 6.9 mi
Scramble about 400 feet up the ridge around big boulders, short drops and cracks. This is the fun part.
Watch for: Class 3.
13
Summit 13,067' · 6.95 mi
The first top may have a soggy register. The true summit is about 50 yards west, across big blocks with some exposure.
Watch for: One block rocks when you grab it. Move carefully.
Getting down
Go back the way you came. The south couloir from the saddle drops 1,800 feet of steep, loose talus to Bear Creek, followed by a long bushwhack past the falls and a wade across Snowmass Creek. It is not faster.
If things go wrong
Below the couloir, reverse the route. Leave yourself plenty of daylight for the route-finding.
3D flyover
No 3D flyover for this peak
Most of this route is off-trail, with hard route-finding. A flyover only works when there is a set trail to trace. Without one, the line would be a guess, and a guess could send you the wrong way on the mountain. Use the step-by-step route with a good map and GPS track instead.
See the trail on video
No video yet
We haven’t found a good video of this route that matches the way we describe it. The route strip, junctions and 3D flyover show the way in the meantime.
This describes the route on a dry summer day. Most 13ers see few people, so there may be no one along behind you. Check recent conditions the week you go, carry a map, tell someone your plan, and turn around when the day tells you to.