Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
Colorado 13er · South Ridge and West Slopes
Overview
Eagles Nest is the second-highest and northernmost 13er in the Gore Range. From the basin below Mount Powell you cross a pass to the northwest, follow a long bench north below the Powell-Eagles Nest ridge, then climb grass ridges and gullies up the west side to the south ridge and scramble to the top.
It is Class 3 with short sections of moderate exposure. Route-finding is difficult: the gullies on the west side end in cliffs, and the easy way through is not obvious from below.
From Piney River Ranch it is about 13.9 miles round trip with 5,160 feet of gain, a very long day. Most people backpack to the 11,225-foot basin, which leaves about 4.8 miles and 3,300 feet for the summit day.
Plan of the day
Start by
From a camp in the basin, by 5:30 a.m.
Turnaround
If you are not on the south ridge by 11 a.m., turn back. The ridge takes longer than it looks.
Crux
Finding a way from the west-side gullies onto the south ridge, and the scrambling along the ridge.
Route-finding
Difficult. Mark where you reach the south ridge so you can find your way back down to the gully.
Water
Streams in the basin and along the bench. Filter it.
From I-70 at Vail (exit 176), go through the roundabout onto the North Frontage Road and drive west about 0.9 mile. Turn right on Red Sandstone Road. After two switchbacks on pavement, turn left onto the dirt Forest Road 700 at the third bend and reset your trip meter.
Stay left at the Lost Lake Road fork near 2.7 miles and go straight past two more forks around 6.5 to 6.7 miles. The road then drops to the Piney River. Cross the bridge and turn right toward Piney Lake. At about 10.65 miles, park in the Forest Service lot on the right, just before the Piney River Ranch entrance. Allow about 45 minutes; most cars can make it.
Trail in the treesRidgeTalus and screeScramblingTundraExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Piney River Ranch trailhead 9,360' · 0 mi
Start on the Piney River Trail (#1885) from the north side of the lot. It climbs above Piney Lake right away and stays well above the valley floor.
2
Soda Lakes junction 9,500' · 1 mi
Stay on the main trail. The trail that forks left here goes to the Soda Lakes.
3
Falls turnoff 9,800' · 3.1 mi
The trail drops toward the river near the falls. About five minutes past them, a tall cairn on the left marks a climbers' trail into the basin below Mount Powell and Peak C. An older turnoff a few minutes farther on works too.
Watch for: The first turnoff is partly hidden by a fallen tree.
4
Steep climbers' trail 10,500' · 3.8 mi
The path climbs very steeply north through forest, then gets lost in tall wildflowers and willows. After a boggy stretch it reappears and climbs an open bench.
Watch for: Easy to lose. Keep heading up and east into the basin.
5
Basin meadow 11,225' · 4.5 mi
Reach the meadow at the foot of the big split couloir below Kneeknocker Pass, the saddle between Powell and Peak C. This is the usual campsite for a multi-day trip.
6
Pass northwest of Powell 11,800' · 5.2 mi
Head north-northwest up a tundra valley with rock outcrops to the pass between Mount Powell and the jagged 12,626-foot point to the west. Mountain goats have worn a path to it.
7
The bench 11,500' · 6.1 mi
Over the pass, don't drop left into the willowy drainage. Bear right onto a bench that runs north below the cliffs and talus of the Powell-Eagles Nest ridge. Follow it nearly a mile.
Watch for: Some willow-bashing.
8
Grassy west ridge 12,300' · 6.5 mi
Climb the first green ridge coming down the west side. It is steep but mostly grass.
9
West-side gully 12,800' · 6.8 mi
After about 800 feet, cross to the north side of the grass ridge and follow a wide gully of tundra and loose rock toward its head.
Watch for: The gully heads into a cliff. Look for a way out before you reach it.
10
Slot to the south ridge 13,050' · 7 mi
Where the gully meets a sheer cliff, a narrow, slot-like couloir on the left climbs about 100 feet to a side ridge. Drop into the next gully and scramble up good rock on its right side to the south ridge.
Watch for: Mark this point for the return.
11
South ridge 13,200' · 7.1 mi
Head north along the ridge. There are rock slabs to scramble, outcrops to go around and a small cliff band.
Watch for: Short exposed sections.
12
Summit 13,419' · 7.4 mi
Of the three summit bumps, the middle one is highest.
Getting down
Reverse the route. Find the spot where you gained the south ridge, go back down through the slot couloir and gullies, then return along the bench to the pass and down into the basin.
If things go wrong
Retreat the way you came. The bench below the ridge leads back to the pass and the basin.
3D flyover
No 3D flyover for this peak
This route is almost entirely off trail with difficult route-finding. A flyover only works when there is a set trail to trace. Without one, the line would be a guess, and a guess could send you the wrong way on the mountain. Use the step-by-step route with a good map and GPS track instead.
See the trail on video
No video yet
We haven’t found a good video of this route that matches the way we describe it. The route strip, junctions and 3D flyover show the way in the meantime.
Other routes
Every way up Eagles Nest we list, with its class.
Eagle's Nest South Ridge/West Slopethis routeClass 3 13.9 mi
This describes the route on a dry summer day. Most 13ers see few people, so there may be no one along behind you. Check recent conditions the week you go, carry a map, tell someone your plan, and turn around when the day tells you to.