Peak G sits on the southern end of the Ripsaw Ridge. The climb is on steep, broken rock with severe exposure along the summit ridge. This page is an outline of the line, not a move-by-move guide.
DifficultyClass 4
Round trip14.7 mi
Elevation gain3,900'
TrailheadPiney River Ranch
Trailhead elevation9,360'
Conditions on the summit
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—Summit temp now
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Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
Colorado 13er · Southeast Ridge
Overview
Peak G is the southern end of the Ripsaw Ridge, the jagged crest that runs south from Peak C in the Gore Range. From the upper Piney River valley you climb an extremely steep forest and basin, then a rocky couloir to the summit ridge. The lower south summit is an easy walk; the true north summit is a tedious traverse over fractured blocks.
It is Class 4 with severe exposure on the final ridge, and most of the upper climb is on loose, broken rock. Route-finding in the valley and the forest is tricky.
The round trip is about 14.7 miles with 3,900 feet of gain. Most people backpack into the valley and climb from a camp.
Plan of the day
Start by
From a camp in the valley, at first light.
Turnaround
If you are not in the upper basin by 10 a.m., turn around.
Crux
The fractured-block traverse from the south summit to the higher north summit, and the loose couloir below it.
Route-finding
Difficult. Find the small creek that drains the basin below Peaks F and G and climb north of it.
Water
The Piney River and the creek below Peak G. Filter it.
From I-70 at Vail (exit 176), go through the roundabout onto the North Frontage Road and drive west about 0.9 mile. Turn right on Red Sandstone Road. After two switchbacks on pavement, turn left onto the dirt Forest Road 700 at the third bend and reset your trip meter.
Stay left at the Lost Lake Road fork near 2.7 miles and go straight past two more forks around 6.5 to 6.7 miles. The road then drops to the Piney River. Cross the bridge and turn right toward Piney Lake. At about 10.65 miles, park in the Forest Service lot on the right, just before the Piney River Ranch entrance. Allow about 45 minutes; most cars can make it.
Trail in the treesScramblingSnow or couloirExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Piney River Ranch trailhead 9,360' · 0 mi
Follow the Piney River Trail past Piney Lake and the falls, and continue up the valley past the Mount Powell turnoff.
2
Upper valley camp 9,900' · 4.15 mi
About 0.7 mile past the Powell turnoff there are campsites. The unmaintained trail continues up the east side of the valley through forest and wet meadows.
3
Foot of the drainage 10,000' · 5 mi
Watch for a small creek coming down from the basin below Peaks F and G. Use avalanche paths across the valley to check where you are.
Watch for: Hard to find. A GPS helps.
4
Steep forest 11,000' · 5.4 mi
Leave the trail and bushwhack through deadfall, then climb very steeply through forest on game trails, past a cliff band, to the north side of the creek.
Watch for: About 2,600 feet of gain in just over a mile.
5
Upper basin 12,000' · 5.8 mi
Rest on the boulders where the slope eases a little. Study the peak: the couloir to the F-G saddle is Class 4; a couloir farther right is easier higher up.
6
Couloir to the ridge 12,900' · 6.2 mi
Climb the right-hand couloir over large unstable rocks, then sand and gravel, to a tundra slope at its head. It tops out just south of the south summit.
Watch for: Loose rock. Keep your group close together.
7
South summit 13,240' · 6.3 mi
Turn left to the south summit, an easy walk.
8
Summit 13,306' · 6.45 mi
The higher north summit is less than a quarter mile along a ridge of fractured blocks. Expect slow, exposed Class 4 scrambling.
Watch for: Severe exposure. Turn back if you are not comfortable.
Getting down
Reverse the route. Go down the couloir carefully one at a time, then descend the steep forest north of the creek to the valley trail.
If things go wrong
The south summit is a reasonable goal on its own. From anywhere above the basin, go back down the way you came.
3D flyover
No 3D flyover for this peak
Peak G has no trail above the Piney River valley. A flyover only works when there is a set trail to trace. Without one, the line would be a guess, and a guess could send you the wrong way on the mountain. Use the step-by-step route with a good map and GPS track instead.
See the trail on video
No video yet
We haven’t found a good video of this route that matches the way we describe it. The route strip, junctions and 3D flyover show the way in the meantime.
This describes the route on a dry summer day. Most 13ers see few people, so there may be no one along behind you. Check recent conditions the week you go, carry a map, tell someone your plan, and turn around when the day tells you to.