Peak Q, sometimes called Prisoner Peak, is one of the most remote and difficult Gore summits. The notch between its two summits is at least Class 4 and many would rope up. Getting there means crossing the rugged Partners ridge. This page is an outline, not a move-by-move guide.
DifficultyClass 4
Round trip17.4 mi
Elevation gain6,760'
TrailheadPitkin Lake
Trailhead elevation8,450'
Conditions on the summit
LoadingFetching the forecast for 13,239'…
—Summit temp now
—Sustained wind
—Gusting to
—Freezing level
Today
—
Tomorrow
—
Day three
—
Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
Colorado 13er · Northeast Face via South Slate Creek
Overview
Peak Q sits north of the Partner Peaks, above the remote South Slate Creek basin. From Pitkin Lake you must cross the jagged ridge between East and West Partner, drop into South Slate Creek, walk to a lake at the peak's southeast foot, and climb from the Q-R saddle up the northeast face to the higher east summit.
The northeast face is mostly Class 2+ with brief Class 3 scrambles on loose rock, marked by cairns. The ridge crossing and the notch between the summits are the serious parts. Many climbers say it is easier to approach from the Slate Creek side and pair it with Peak L.
From the Pitkin Lake trailhead it is about 17.4 miles with 6,760 feet of gain, a multi-day backpack.
Plan of the day
Start by
From a camp at Pitkin Lake, at first light.
Turnaround
Be at the Q-R saddle by 10:30 a.m.
Crux
Finding a safe gap in the Partners ridge, and the notch between the summits (avoid it by using the northeast face).
Route-finding
Very difficult. Aim for a gap high on the west side of the Partners ridge, marked by a thumb-shaped pinnacle. Avoid the low point and the giant boulder field below the middle of the ridge.
Water
Pitkin Lake, streams in South Slate Creek and the lake below Peak Q. Filter it.
From I-70, get off at exit 180 for East Vail, roughly 4 miles past the main Vail exit heading east. Cross to the interstate's north side and go right (east) on Fall Line Drive. Drive a short way past condos and cross Pitkin Creek. The small trailhead lot is right after the bridge.
There are only about 10 spaces, and a sign limits parking to two days; call the Vail police for permission to park longer. Don't park in the cul-de-sac just beyond. If the lot is full, try the parking area just south of the interchange on Bighorn Road and walk back.
Trail in the treesRidgeTalus and screeTundraExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Pitkin Lake trailhead 8,450' · 0 mi
The Pitkin Lake Trail starts out easy, following the creek's east bank, then crosses on a bridge.
2
Steep log steps 9,100' · 0.7 mi
The trail suddenly climbs very steeply on log steps for about half a mile, then eases, staying above the creek.
3
Beside the creek 9,700' · 2 mi
The trail runs right beside the creek for a while, then crosses a meadow and climbs to another bench.
4
Lower campsite 10,460' · 3.3 mi
The path fords Pitkin Creek's west fork. A large campsite sits just past the crossing, shortly before the trail turns left and climbs steeply to Pitkin Lake.
5
Pitkin Lake 11,380' · 4.5 mi
Climb the last steep stretch out of the valley to Pitkin Lake, ringed by the Partner Peaks.
6
Partners ridge 12,700' · 5.4 mi
Climb toward the west side of the ridge between the Partners, above its worst sections, and look for a gap by a thumb-shaped pinnacle.
Watch for: The first 200 feet down the north side can be steep, loose gravel. Aim high and west.
7
South Slate Creek 12,100' · 5.9 mi
Descend at least 600 feet through smaller boulders into the open upper basin.
8
Lake below Peak Q 12,200' · 6.8 mi
Cross tundra, rock benches and small streams north-northeast to a lake in a hollow at the peak's southeast foot.
Watch for: Some willow-bashing.
9
Q-R saddle 12,450' · 7.1 mi
Climb a short, steep cleft (or go around it to the east), then follow a sloping bench to the saddle between Peaks Q and R.
10
Northeast face 12,900' · 7.4 mi
Traverse up and northwest across gullies and loose rock to a ridge of lighter rock. Cairns lead from there.
Follow the cairns, mostly Class 2+ with brief Class 3, to the higher east summit.
Getting down
Reverse the northeast face to the Q-R saddle, return across South Slate Creek, and climb back over the Partners ridge to Pitkin Lake.
If things go wrong
The Q-R saddle is the last easy retreat point. The way home always involves recrossing the Partners ridge.
3D flyover
No 3D flyover for this peak
Peak Q is a remote technical climb with no trail. A flyover only works when there is a set trail to trace. Without one, the line would be a guess, and a guess could send you the wrong way on the mountain. Use the step-by-step route with a good map and GPS track instead.
See the trail on video
No video yet
We haven’t found a good video of this route that matches the way we describe it. The route strip, junctions and 3D flyover show the way in the meantime.
This describes the route on a dry summer day. Most 13ers see few people, so there may be no one along behind you. Check recent conditions the week you go, carry a map, tell someone your plan, and turn around when the day tells you to.