Peak C is a steep rock spire. Its routes are rated from Class 3 to mid Class 5 and are hard to follow exactly. Go prepared for fifth-class climbing, with a helmet and rope skills. This page is an outline of the line, not a move-by-move guide. Don't try it when the rock is wet.
DifficultyClass 4
Round trip10.9 mi
Elevation gain3,860'
TrailheadPiney River Ranch
Trailhead elevation9,360'
Conditions on the summit
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Day three
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Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
Colorado 13er · West Ridge
Overview
Peak C is the sharp 'sharkstooth' spire just south of Mount Powell, at the north end of the jagged Ripsaw Ridge. From the basin below Powell you climb a steep, loose couloir to the west ridge, then pick a line up broken ledges, gullies and big rock blocks to the summit.
It is at least Class 4, with severe exposure and loose rock. There are several possible lines and none is well defined. Wet rock turns the upper blocks into a serious climb, and there is nowhere to hide from a storm.
As a day climb from Piney River Ranch it is about 10.9 miles with 3,860 feet of gain. From a camp in the basin it is about 0.9 mile and 2,000 feet to the top.
Plan of the day
Start by
From a camp in the basin, at first light. Be off the summit before any clouds build.
Turnaround
If the rock is wet or clouds are forming, don't start the upper climb.
Crux
The exposed, steep blocks below the summit (Class 4), and the loose sand and gravel near 40 degrees in the upper couloir.
Route-finding
Difficult. From the basin, the couloir to the west ridge is marked by a big, shiny sloping boulder.
From I-70 at Vail (exit 176), go through the roundabout onto the North Frontage Road and drive west about 0.9 mile. Turn right on Red Sandstone Road. After two switchbacks on pavement, turn left onto the dirt Forest Road 700 at the third bend and reset your trip meter.
Stay left at the Lost Lake Road fork near 2.7 miles and go straight past two more forks around 6.5 to 6.7 miles. The road then drops to the Piney River. Cross the bridge and turn right toward Piney Lake. At about 10.65 miles, park in the Forest Service lot on the right, just before the Piney River Ranch entrance. Allow about 45 minutes; most cars can make it.
Trail in the treesTalus and screeRidgeExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Piney River Ranch trailhead 9,360' · 0 mi
Start on the Piney River Trail (#1885) from the north side of the lot. It climbs above Piney Lake right away and stays well above the valley floor.
2
Soda Lakes junction 9,500' · 1 mi
Stay on the main trail. The trail that forks left here goes to the Soda Lakes.
3
Falls turnoff 9,800' · 3.1 mi
The trail drops toward the river near the falls. About five minutes past them, a tall cairn on the left marks a climbers' trail into the basin below Mount Powell and Peak C. An older turnoff a few minutes farther on works too.
Watch for: The first turnoff is partly hidden by a fallen tree.
4
Steep climbers' trail 10,500' · 3.8 mi
The path climbs very steeply north through forest, then gets lost in tall wildflowers and willows. After a boggy stretch it reappears and climbs an open bench.
Watch for: Easy to lose. Keep heading up and east into the basin.
5
Basin meadow 11,225' · 4.5 mi
Reach the meadow at the foot of the big split couloir below Kneeknocker Pass, the saddle between Powell and Peak C. This is the usual campsite for a multi-day trip.
6
South couloir 11,750' · 4.7 mi
From the meadow, head up the right-hand (south) branch of the big couloir below Kneeknocker Pass. Plants hide large rocks at first; higher up it is broken rock.
Watch for: Ankle-twisting ground.
7
Side couloir 12,200' · 4.9 mi
Near 11,750 feet, turn right into a side couloir that leads to Peak C's west ridge. It is marked by a large, shiny sloping boulder you can see from camp.
8
Upper couloir 12,700' · 5.1 mi
The couloir narrows between steep walls and turns to loose sand and gravel, near 40 degrees at its steepest.
Watch for: Early in summer this is snow: bring an ice axe and crampons.
9
West ridge 12,900' · 5.2 mi
From the saddle, follow the ridge east on a faint path toward a rock wall with a notch.
10
Upper mountain 13,100' · 5.35 mi
Climb a crack and broken ledges to a higher bench, then a shallow rock gully, then onto large blocks.
Watch for: Exposed Class 4 moves with little protection. Very dangerous when wet.
11
Summit 13,228' · 5.4 mi
Scramble the final blocks to the top.
Getting down
Reverse the route with great care. Many parties rappel parts of the upper mountain. Go back down the west ridge and the loose couloirs to the basin.
If things go wrong
Once above the side couloir, retreating means reversing everything you climbed. Decide at the west ridge saddle.
3D flyover
No 3D flyover for this peak
Peak C is a technical rock spire with no trail. A flyover only works when there is a set trail to trace. Without one, the line would be a guess, and a guess could send you the wrong way on the mountain. Use the step-by-step route with a good map and GPS track instead.
See the trail on video
No video yet
We haven’t found a good video of this route that matches the way we describe it. The route strip, junctions and 3D flyover show the way in the meantime.
This describes the route on a dry summer day. Most 13ers see few people, so there may be no one along behind you. Check recent conditions the week you go, carry a map, tell someone your plan, and turn around when the day tells you to.