Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
Colorado 13er · East Ridge
Overview
Traver Peak is the southern corner of the high basin above Wheeler Lake, shared with Clinton and McNamee. This route follows the Platte Gulch road to the lake, climbs into the basin, then goes up Traver's east ridge to the top.
It is Class 2 with no trail above the lake. The basin is easy walking; the ridge is talus, steep for a stretch near 13,400 feet but with several easy lines.
The round trip is about 9 miles with 2,950 feet of gain, usually 6 to 8 hours. Many people combine Traver with Clinton and McNamee for a bigger day.
Plan of the day
Start by
By 5:30 a.m.
Turnaround
If you are not on the east ridge by 10:30 a.m., turn around.
Crux
Getting onto the east ridge from the basin, and the steep talus near 13,400 feet.
Route-finding
Trail to the gully above Wheeler Lake. After that, walk to the stream in the middle of the basin and find the foot of Traver's east ridge, left of the stream.
Water
Creek along the road, Wheeler Lake and the stream in the upper basin. Filter it.
From Breckenridge, drive south on Highway 9 over Hoosier Pass. Less than a mile past the pass, turn west on County Road 4. Stay straight at the first two junctions, then keep right on the upper road. At about 1.4 miles you reach the parking area at Montgomery Reservoir.
Cars can usually go on across a small bridge and around the reservoir. The road gets rougher near 1.6 miles. About 1.7 miles in, a turnoff on the left leads to a small water building and concrete wall; park there.
TundraRidgeTalus and screeExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Montgomery Reservoir trailhead 10,970' · 0 mi
Head northwest, then west, on the bumpy 4WD road that runs up Platte Gulch.
2
Upper Platte Gulch 11,700' · 2.4 mi
Near the end of the valley, keep right where the road climbs toward Wheeler Lake.
3
Wheeler Lake 12,168' · 3 mi
The road ends on the lake's left side. Follow a trail north along the shore.
4
Gully above the lake 12,400' · 3.2 mi
Partway along the shore, before its far end, branch left on a fainter path that heads up a gully beside a band of cliffs.
5
Upper basin 12,900' · 3.7 mi
You enter the big basin under Traver, Clinton and McNamee. There is no more trail. Head to the middle of the basin and the small stream. Traver is ahead to the southwest.
6
Foot of the east ridge 13,000' · 3.9 mi
Find where Traver's east ridge ends, left of the stream. Look for solid ground and climb south onto the north side of the ridge.
Watch for: Loose talus. Test rocks before you step.
7
East ridge 13,200' · 4.1 mi
Work up through talus to the crest and turn southwest up the ridge.
8
Steep section 13,400' · 4.3 mi
The ridge steepens. There are several safe ways through; pick the most stable one.
9
Summit 13,856' · 4.5 mi
Follow the ridge to the top. Mount Democrat is right across the valley.
Getting down
Go back down the east ridge to about 13,000 feet, drop north into the basin, and walk back to the stream. Then retrace the gully to Wheeler Lake and the road out.
If things go wrong
The basin is never far below the ridge. From the ridge, head north back into the basin and down to the lake.
3D flyover
No 3D flyover for this peak
Above Wheeler Lake the route crosses a trailless basin and ridge. A flyover only works when there is a set trail to trace. Without one, the line would be a guess, and a guess could send you the wrong way on the mountain. Use the step-by-step route with a good map and GPS track instead.
See the trail on video
No video yet
We haven’t found a good video of this route that matches the way we describe it. The route strip, junctions and 3D flyover show the way in the meantime.
This describes the route on a dry summer day. Most 13ers see few people, so there may be no one along behind you. Check recent conditions the week you go, carry a map, tell someone your plan, and turn around when the day tells you to.