Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
Colorado 13er · South Couloir
Overview
White Ridge is the long pale ridge east of Mount Sherman. Its standard route is a snow climb: a wide couloir on the south face, the left of two gullies that form a big 'V' just south of the summit. It is at its best in late spring and early summer when the snow is firm.
It is rated difficult Class 2 with moderate snow. The couloir steepens past 30 degrees and tops out near 39 degrees between about 12,700 and 13,200 feet. West winds often load the left side with less stable snow.
The round trip is about 4 miles with 2,000 feet of gain, usually 4 to 5 hours. Once the snow melts, the couloir becomes loose scree, and the easier way up is the gully between White Ridge and Mount Sherman (see the descent).
Plan of the day
Start by
Very early: be climbing the couloir at first light, while the snow is frozen firm.
Turnaround
Be off the snow by mid-morning, before the sun softens it. If the snow is soft, slushy or unstable, don't go up.
Crux
The steepest part of the couloir, up to about 39 degrees, between 12,700 and 13,200 feet.
Route-finding
No trail. Park where you can see the couloir from the road, walk north to the runout below the two gullies, and take the left one.
Water
Snowmelt low down. Nothing reliable above. Carry it.
From Fairplay, head south on US 285 for a little more than a mile, then turn right (west) on County Road 18. Follow it about 10 miles to the old Leavick site at about 11,250 feet.
Keep driving up the Fourmile Creek road. There is no set trailhead for this route: pull off near 11,700 feet once you can see the couloir on White Ridge to the north.
TundraSnow or couloirTalus and screeRidgeExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Fourmile Creek road 11,700' · 0 mi
Leave the road and walk north through scattered trees and willows toward treeline.
2
Runout below the gullies 12,000' · 0.6 mi
At the bottom of the two couloirs, study the snow and pick your line. This description uses the left (main) couloir.
3
Enter the couloir 12,400' · 0.9 mi
Walk up through the avalanche debris and move into the couloir.
Watch for: If you doubt the snow, stay near the rocks on the far right or far left. The left side is often wind-loaded.
4
Steepest section 13,000' · 1.3 mi
The angle passes 30 degrees and peaks near 39 degrees. Above 13,000 feet the couloir bends slightly left toward a line of rocks on the right.
Watch for: A fall here would slide a long way. Use your ice axe and crampons.
5
Upper couloir 13,300' · 1.6 mi
Go around the line of rocks. The angle eases above 13,200 feet. Later in the season the snow may not reach the ridge; finish on snow or scree.
6
Summit ridge 13,550' · 1.8 mi
Top out on the ridge and turn left. Climb a small point to see the summit.
7
Summit 13,698' · 2 mi
Walk about 100 yards to the top.
Getting down
Only descend the couloir if the snow is still firm and you are comfortable facing in. Otherwise, walk northwest along White Ridge for about a mile to the west side of the saddle between White Ridge and Mount Sherman. Turn south and go down the gully between the two peaks into upper Fourmile Creek, then back to the road.
If things go wrong
If the snow is not right, don't enter the couloir. On the ridge, the Sherman-side gully is the safer way down.
3D flyover
No 3D flyover for this peak
This is a snow climb up a couloir; there is no trail to trace. A flyover only works when there is a set trail to trace. Without one, the line would be a guess, and a guess could send you the wrong way on the mountain. Use the step-by-step route with a good map and GPS track instead.
See the trail on video
No video yet
We haven’t found a good video of this route that matches the way we describe it. The route strip, junctions and 3D flyover show the way in the meantime.
This describes the route on a dry summer day. Most 13ers see few people, so there may be no one along behind you. Check recent conditions the week you go, carry a map, tell someone your plan, and turn around when the day tells you to.