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San Juan Range · Colorado 13er · No. 65 of the 13ers

South Ridge from Island Lake

US Grant Peak, 13,778'

Class 3 crux

A short, steep wall on a narrow part of the south ridge is the hard part, and some rate it Class 4. A short rope can give some people comfort. This page is an outline, not a move-by-move guide.

DifficultyClass 3
Round trip6.5 mi
Elevation gain3,925'
TrailheadSouth Mineral Creek
Trailhead elevation9,845'
Less traffic, less margin

This describes the route on a dry summer day. Most 13ers see few people, so there may be no one along behind you. Check recent conditions the week you go, carry a map, tell someone your plan, and turn around when the day tells you to.

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Colorado 13er · South Ridge from Island Lake

Is it right for you?

Ulysses S. Grant Peak, or US Grant, rises above Island Lake in the Ice Lake Basin group west of Silverton. The approach starts at a car-friendly trailhead and passes through some of the best wildflower meadows in Colorado.

You hike the busy Ice Lake trail to the lower basin, take a side trail to Island Lake, then climb tundra and talus to the low point that links US Grant with V 4. A path follows the south ridge to one short Class 3 wall, then a ledge and an easy couloir lead to the top.

The round trip is about 6.5 miles with 3,925 feet of gain. V 4 is close by from the same saddle and is well worth adding. The east ridge to V 2 has been done too and is reported to be no harder than Class 2.

Plan of the day

Start by

By 6 a.m.

Turnaround

Be at the saddle by 10:30 a.m.

Crux

The 12-foot wall on the narrow south ridge.

Route-finding

Moderate. The trail ends at Island Lake; aim northwest for the saddle.

Water

Creeks in Lower Ice Lake Basin and Island Lake. Filter it.

This week on the summit

Conditions on the summit

Loading Fetching the forecast for 13,778'…
—Summit temp now
—Sustained wind
—Gusting to
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Tomorrow

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Day three

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Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.

Getting there

Trailhead

South Mineral Creek

Find it on a map

Leave Silverton on US 550 heading north. A little over 2 miles out, turn left (west) on Forest Road 585, the South Mineral Creek road. From Ouray, come south over Red Mountain Pass and look for the same turn on the right before you reach Silverton.

Follow the graded dirt road west about 4.7 miles to South Mineral Campground. The last mile is a bit rougher but most cars can make it. Trail parking is a gravel lot on the right, across from the campground entrance. The lot fills very early on summer weekends, and you can't camp in it.

A higher start is possible on the Clear Lake road, which branches right about 4.2 miles in. It needs 4WD with good clearance. Park at the first switchback (around 10,340 feet), where only a few cars fit. It saves roughly 400 to 500 feet of climbing but almost no distance. The campground is first come, first served, and dispersed camping along Forest Road 585 is allowed only at signed sites.

Before you go

Check these the week of your climb.

Official forecast

The National Weather Service forecast for the summit area, hour by hour. Look for thunderstorm chances and wind above treeline.

NWS point forecast →

Directions to the trailhead

South Mineral Creek. Road conditions near the trailhead change after storms. Check your clearance and have a backup plan for a lower lot.

Get directions →

Roads and highways

Closures, construction and winter conditions on the highways that get you there.

COtrip road conditions →

Closures and fire rules

Trail closures, fire bans and other alerts from the Forest Service in Colorado. For the latest on your trailhead, call the local ranger district.

Forest Service alerts →

Snow on the route?

From fall through early summer, any snow slope can slide. Check the avalanche forecast before you go.

Avalanche forecast →

Cell signal

Most trailheads and many summits have little or no signal. Check coverage near the trailhead and carry a satellite messenger or beacon if you can.

FCC coverage map →