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San Juan Range · Colorado 13er · No. 77 of the 13ers

West Side from Ice Lake

Pilot Knob, 13,746'

Class 3 scramble

A narrow couloir with good rock and some exposure leads to the summit ridge, and a big tower must be passed near the top. Some people will want a belay. This page is an outline, not a move-by-move guide.

DifficultyClass 3
Round trip10.6 mi
Elevation gain3,890'
TrailheadSouth Mineral Creek
Trailhead elevation9,845'

Conditions on the summit

Loading Fetching the forecast for 13,746'…
—Summit temp now
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Day three

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Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.

Colorado 13er · West Side from Ice Lake

Overview

Pilot Knob is a craggy summit at the head of the Ice Lake Basin west of Silverton. It is a good step up from Class 2 peaks, with a fun ridge on solid rock and one of the prettiest trail approaches in the state.

The Ice Lake trail climbs to the lower basin, passes a waterfall and reaches Ice Lake. You then walk up the valley past small ponds, climb a slope of yellow-orange talus to the north end of the summit block, traverse a use trail on the west side, and scramble a narrow Class 3 couloir to the crest.

The round trip is about 10.6 miles with 3,890 feet of gain. A harder line up a yellow couloir on the east side is rated exposed Class 4. Golden Horn can be added across the connecting ridge, but the traverse under Pilot Knob's crest is slow and loose.

Plan of the day

Start by

By 6 a.m.

Turnaround

Be at the base of the summit block by 10:30 a.m.

Crux

The narrow couloir up to the summit ridge.

Route-finding

Moderate. Look for cairns at the base of the couloir; there may be more than one.

Water

Creeks in the basins and the ponds past Ice Lake. Filter it.

Getting to the trailhead

Trailhead

South Mineral Creek

Find it on a map

Leave Silverton on US 550 heading north. A little over 2 miles out, turn left (west) on Forest Road 585, the South Mineral Creek road. From Ouray, come south over Red Mountain Pass and look for the same turn on the right before you reach Silverton.

Follow the graded dirt road west about 4.7 miles to South Mineral Campground. The last mile is a bit rougher but most cars can make it. Trail parking is a gravel lot on the right, across from the campground entrance. The lot fills very early on summer weekends, and you can't camp in it.

A higher start is possible on the Clear Lake road, which branches right about 4.2 miles in. It needs 4WD with good clearance. Park at the first switchback (around 10,340 feet), where only a few cars fit. It saves roughly 400 to 500 feet of climbing but almost no distance. The campground is first come, first served, and dispersed camping along Forest Road 585 is allowed only at signed sites.

Before you go

Check these the week of your climb.

Official forecast

The National Weather Service forecast for the summit area, hour by hour. Look for thunderstorm chances and wind above treeline.

NWS point forecast →

Directions to the trailhead

South Mineral Creek. Road conditions near the trailhead change after storms. Check your clearance and have a backup plan for a lower lot.

Get directions →

Roads and highways

Closures, construction and winter conditions on the highways that get you there.

COtrip road conditions →

Closures and fire rules

Trail closures, fire bans and other alerts from the Forest Service in Colorado. For the latest on your trailhead, call the local ranger district.

Forest Service alerts →

Snow on the route?

From fall through early summer, any snow slope can slide. Check the avalanche forecast before you go.

Avalanche forecast →

Cell signal

Most trailheads and many summits have little or no signal. Check coverage near the trailhead and carry a satellite messenger or beacon if you can.

FCC coverage map →

Less traffic, less margin

This describes the route on a dry summer day. Most 13ers see few people, so there may be no one along behind you. Check recent conditions the week you go, carry a map, tell someone your plan, and turn around when the day tells you to.