South Face and West Ridge from Sunlight Creek

Is it right for you?

Peak Eleven is a seldom-climbed Needle Mountains summit, overshadowed by the nearby fourteeners. The 4WD route from Hunchback Pass is a long, hard backpack. The other ways in use the Durango & Silverton train to Needleton: Chicago Basin (the shortest; start from the north end of Twin Lakes), the south fork of Noname Creek to Twin Thumbs Pass, or Ruby Creek. You can also hike up Vallecito Creek from the reservoir and over Columbine Pass. For the train, check the railroad's current schedule and reserve ahead. The camp is about 11 miles from the trailhead. You cross Hunchback Pass, walk down the Vallecito Trail past Nebo Creek, Trinity Creek and Rock Creek (a long wade), then ford Vallecito Creek below its meeting with Sunlight Creek. That ford can be knee to thigh deep and swift, and is dangerous before runoff drops in mid-July. On the far side, wade to the north side of Sunlight Creek and, within about five minutes, turn left onto the cairned Sunlight trail; the main path goes on toward Leviathan Creek. This unmaintained trail climbs about 2,500 hard feet, crosses the creek again near 10,800 feet, and is easy to lose. The last sheltering trees, at about 11,550 feet, make the base camp; Sunlight Lake is about 0.6 mile beyond.

From Sunlight Lake you go up to the upper lake, cross the pass between Windom and Sunlight's southeast ridge, drop toward Twin Lakes, and climb tundra and talus to the saddle east of the Twin Thumbs. From there you scramble along the north side of Peak Eleven's western sub-peak on ledges to the summit blocks. It is Class 3 at a few short steps.

From camp it is about 7.5 miles round trip with 4,000 feet of gain. The approach alone is about 22.2 miles round trip with 6,225 feet of gain. The total from the trailhead is about 29.7 miles with 10,225 feet.

Plan of the day

This week on the summit

Getting there

This trailhead needs a high-clearance 4WD, and plan on as much as 2.5 hours of driving from Silverton. From the northeast end of Silverton, take County Road 2 up the Animas about 4.2 miles to Howardsville. Turn right up Cunningham Gulch, then take the left fork onto the Stony Pass road. It climbs steeply over the pass and down the far side. You will ford Pole Creek, then turn right at a fork and ford the Rio Grande. Both fords are harder early in the summer. Then follow the Beartown road about 4 slow, rough miles past the old Beartown site and up a rocky, rutted stretch. The Hunchback Pass trailhead is about half a mile below Kite Lake, at roughly 11,800 feet, with limited parking.

You can also reach this area from Creede or Lake City by driving to Rio Grande Reservoir, but the road west of the reservoir has very rough sections. There is some camping near the trailhead and near the old Beartown site.

This is the start of a multi-day backpack. Park so you don't block the road; space is tight.

Next: the route, step by step →

The route

1. 1

   Sunlight Creek camp 11,550' · 0 mi

   Follow the trail up to Sunlight Lake.

2. 2

   Upper lake 12,545' · 1.3 mi

   Cross the outlet east of Sunlight Lake and climb the broad ridge south toward the upper lake, as for Greylock Mountain.

3. 3

   Pass near Windom 13,050' · 1.9 mi

   Head southwest toward the jagged southeast ridge coming off Sunlight Peak. It has two obvious breaks; aim for the one closer to Windom Peak. Expect snow until midsummer and plenty of loose rock and boulders.

   Watch for: Loose rock; snow early.

4. 4

   Bench above Twin Lakes 12,800' · 2.6 mi

   Descend into the upper basin between Windom and Sunlight, often snowy and otherwise full of talus. At the last bench before the lakes, either swing left to join the Windom trail briefly and contour to the lakes' north side, or look on the bench's right side for a ramp that breaks the cliffs and leads to tundra above the lakes.

5. 5

   Tundra north of Twin Lakes 12,700' · 2.9 mi

   Reach the tundra slope at about 12,700 feet and turn north. The tundra turns to talus, scree and rock on the way to the saddle just east of the Twin Thumbs, the striking rock spires west of Peak Eleven.

6. 6

   Twin Thumbs saddle 13,200' · 3.3 mi

   This small, airy notch sits between the Thumbs and Peak Eleven's western sub-peak. Step onto a chockstone and climb a short headwall.

   Watch for: Class 3, airy.

7. 7

   North side of the sub-peak 13,350' · 3.55 mi

   Work up the left (north) side of the sub-peak, past two more short Class 3 steps; a few cairns may help. Traverse up to a broad ledge system and follow the shelf around the sub-peak's north flank to the saddle below the summit ridge.

   Watch for: Two more Class 3 steps.

8. 8

   Peak Eleven 13,530' · 3.75 mi

   Finish by walking among and over big granite blocks.

Getting down

Return the same way; it's the quickest route back to camp.

If things go wrong

Below the Twin Thumbs saddle, the tundra above Twin Lakes is easy ground, but getting back to camp still means recrossing the pass near Windom.

Last step: check in before you go →

3D flyover

See the trail on video

Other routes

Every way up Peak Eleven we list, with its class.

• Peak 11 South Face & West Ridge this routeClass 3 29.7 mi

Check in before you go

Send someone your peak, route, trailhead and when you’ll be back. If you’re late, they know where to send help.