San Juan Range · Colorado 13er · No. 179 of the 13ers
Over US Grant from Island Lake
V 4, 13,541'
Class 3 on US Grant
This route climbs US Grant first, with a short Class 3 wall. V 4 itself is Class 2+ on loose rock. This page is an outline, not a move-by-move guide.
DifficultyClass 2+
Round trip7.85 mi
Elevation gain4,245'
TrailheadSouth Mineral Creek
Trailhead elevation9,845'
Less traffic, less margin
This describes the route on a dry summer day. Most 13ers see few people, so there may be no one along behind you. Check recent conditions the week you go, carry a map, tell someone your plan, and turn around when the day tells you to.
V 4 is a smaller summit next to US Grant, above Island Lake and the Ice Lake Basin west of Silverton. On its own it makes a half-day or so climb, but it's usually paired with US Grant.
After US Grant, return to the saddle between the two peaks. The crest toward V 4 is rough, so most people go around the hard parts on the north side, then climb a loose gully onto a small north ridge about 100 feet below the top. The finish is steep rubble and some big rocks. It is Class 2+.
The round trip with US Grant is about 7.85 miles with 4,245 feet of gain. V 4 adds about half a mile and 320 feet from US Grant. Starting on the Clear Lake road saves about 400 feet.
Plan of the day
Start by
By 6 a.m.
Turnaround
Be at the saddle by 10:30 a.m.
Crux
The US Grant wall, then the loose gully on V 4.
Route-finding
Moderate. Study the V 4 side from the saddle before you leave it.
Water
Creeks in Lower Ice Lake Basin and Island Lake. Filter it.
This week on the summit
Conditions on the summit
LoadingFetching the forecast for 13,541'…
—Summit temp now
—Sustained wind
—Gusting to
—Freezing level
Today
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Tomorrow
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Day three
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Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
Leave Silverton on US 550 heading north. A little over 2 miles out, turn left (west) on Forest Road 585, the South Mineral Creek road. From Ouray, come south over Red Mountain Pass and look for the same turn on the right before you reach Silverton.
Follow the graded dirt road west about 4.7 miles to South Mineral Campground. The last mile is a bit rougher but most cars can make it. Trail parking is a gravel lot on the right, across from the campground entrance. The lot fills very early on summer weekends, and you can't camp in it.
A higher start is possible on the Clear Lake road, which branches right about 4.2 miles in. It needs 4WD with good clearance. Park at the first switchback (around 10,340 feet), where only a few cars fit. It saves roughly 400 to 500 feet of climbing but almost no distance. The campground is first come, first served, and dispersed camping along Forest Road 585 is allowed only at signed sites.
TundraRidgeScramblingTalus and screeExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
South Mineral trailhead 9,845' · 0 mi
Take the Ice Lake trail from the lot across from the campground. It crosses Clear Creek, then climbs steep switchbacks through aspen and spruce.
Watch for: Clear Creek can run high in early summer.
2
Lower Ice Lake Basin 11,400' · 1.8 mi
The grade eases as you enter the flower-filled lower basin. Soon after it levels out, look for a smaller trail branching off to the right.
3
Island Lake 12,350' · 2.6 mi
The side trail winds north, then west, then north again over tundra and reaches Island Lake.
4
Bench below the saddle 12,700' · 2.85 mi
From the south shore at the west end of the lake, climb northwest up the basin to a flat bench. It is mostly tundra when dry.
Watch for: Snow may linger here early in the season.
5
US Grant and V 4 saddle 13,220' · 3 mi
Cross a band of rubble, a little more tundra, and then loose talus to the saddle.
Watch for: Loose rock.
6
Crux wall 13,550' · 3.15 mi
A path climbs the south ridge through broken rock and outcrops until the crest narrows to a few feet, with steep gullies on each side. Ahead is a wall about 12 feet tall. Use a crack to reach a small shelf, then step up onto a wide ledge.
Watch for: Class 3 (some call it Class 4). Exposed.
7
Summit 13,778' · 3.25 mi
Walk the ledge east about 20 yards to a wide, easy-angled couloir with rubble that rolls underfoot. Climb it, rejoin the south ridge and follow it on Class 2+ ground to the top.
8
Back at the saddle 13,220' · 3.5 mi
Carefully reverse the ledge and wall back down to the saddle.
Watch for: Down-climbing the wall is the trickiest moment.
9
Gully on the north side 13,440' · 3.65 mi
From the saddle, lose a little height to the west and traverse under the crest to a rocky rib, then climb the loose gully beyond it to a small north ridge.
Watch for: Loose rock.
10
V 4 summit 13,541' · 3.75 mi
Climb the last 100 feet on steep, loose rubble and scramble over large blocks. The summit is split; the east point looks highest, and the west point can be reached by a short down-climb and a walk across.
Getting down
Return the same way. With snow, the slopes down to Island Lake can make a quick glissade.
If things go wrong
From the saddle, head back down to Island Lake.
3D flyover
No 3D flyover for this peak
The route leaves the trail at Island Lake and crosses talus and loose gullies above. A flyover only works when there is a set trail to trace. Without one, the line would be a guess, and a guess could send you the wrong way on the mountain. Use the step-by-step route with a good map and GPS track instead.
See the trail on video
No video yet
We haven’t found a good video of this route that matches the way we describe it. The route strip, junctions and 3D flyover show the way in the meantime.
Other routes
Every way up V 4 we list, with its class.
Lower Ice Lake/Island Lake Accessthis routeClass 2+ 7.85 mi