Southeast Face from Sunlight Creek

Is it right for you?

Peak Ten sits southwest of Jagged Mountain in the Sunlight Creek basin, some of the wildest scenery in the Weminuche Wilderness. Once soft-ranked, it is now ranked after lidar raised it to 13,494 feet. The only ways in are on foot or horseback. The camp is about 11 miles from the trailhead. You cross Hunchback Pass, walk down the Vallecito Trail past Nebo Creek, Trinity Creek and Rock Creek (a long wade), then ford Vallecito Creek below its meeting with Sunlight Creek. That ford can be knee to thigh deep and swift, and is dangerous before runoff drops in mid-July. On the far side, wade to the north side of Sunlight Creek and, within about five minutes, turn left onto the cairned Sunlight trail; the main path goes on toward Leviathan Creek. This unmaintained trail climbs about 2,500 hard feet, crosses the creek again near 10,800 feet, and is easy to lose. The last sheltering trees, at about 11,550 feet, make the base camp; Sunlight Lake is about 0.6 mile beyond.

From camp you hike west into the basin under Peak Ten and Knife Point, get through a band of low cliffs, climb steep grass to a huge whale-shaped rock, and then pick your own way up gullies on the southeast face to the southwest ridge. The last 100 yards along the ridge are exposed Class 3 with Class 4 to reach the top. The rock is mostly solid.

From camp it is about 2.5 miles round trip with 1,870 feet of gain. The approach alone is about 22.2 miles round trip with 6,225 feet of gain. The total from the trailhead is about 24.7 miles with 8,095 feet. Knife Point pairs well with it.

Plan of the day

This week on the summit

Getting there

This trailhead needs a high-clearance 4WD, and plan on as much as 2.5 hours of driving from Silverton. From the northeast end of Silverton, take County Road 2 up the Animas about 4.2 miles to Howardsville. Turn right up Cunningham Gulch, then take the left fork onto the Stony Pass road. It climbs steeply over the pass and down the far side. You will ford Pole Creek, then turn right at a fork and ford the Rio Grande. Both fords are harder early in the summer. Then follow the Beartown road about 4 slow, rough miles past the old Beartown site and up a rocky, rutted stretch. The Hunchback Pass trailhead is about half a mile below Kite Lake, at roughly 11,800 feet, with limited parking.

You can also reach this area from Creede or Lake City by driving to Rio Grande Reservoir, but the road west of the reservoir has very rough sections. There is some camping near the trailhead and near the old Beartown site.

This is the start of a multi-day backpack. Park so you don't block the road; space is tight.

Next: the route, step by step →

The route

1. 1

   Sunlight Creek camp 11,550' · 0 mi

   Follow the Sunlight Lake trail to the point where it bends south, the turn for the Jagged basin. A stream comes down here from the basin under Peak Ten and Knife Point.

2. 2

   Leave the trail 11,800' · 0.35 mi

   Hike roughly west through rock outcrops and wildflowers on a faint path, with an occasional cairn, that heads toward the Knife Point-Peak Ten saddle. Where the stream splits, take the right fork or the ground between the forks, bearing right for Peak Ten.

3. 3

   Lower cliffs 12,100' · 0.65 mi

   Low cliffs guard the base. You can go far right (north), up the small drainage between Peak Ten and Jagged, and come back left above them. Or climb a left-slanting green ramp through the middle, which is steeper than it looks and slick when wet.

   Watch for: Steep, slippery grass.

4. 4

   Whale rock 12,600' · 0.85 mi

   Climb ever-steeper Class 2 ground to the top end of a huge whale-shaped rock, then go around its west side.

5. 5

   Central gully 12,750' · 0.95 mi

   Traverse west across the face. The distinct gully just past the whale rock is the most direct line. It mixes short cliffs, big blocks and gravel ledges, mostly Class 2+ and never worse than Class 3. Midway, a larger cliff forces you left and then back right into the gully. Other small gullies between the rock bands may also work.

   Watch for: Class 3.

6. 6

   Southwest ridge 13,400' · 1.15 mi

   Reach the ridge about 100 yards southwest of the summit and turn right.

7. 7

   Peak Ten 13,494' · 1.25 mi

   Work along the ridge of large granite blocks split by deep cracks, at times on either side of the crest. Expect solid Class 3 with some Class 4, mainly on the summit block. The view of Jagged is outstanding.

   Watch for: Exposed Class 3 and 4.

Getting down

Go back down the southwest ridge only a short way, then descend the larger gully that leads back near the whale rock. It has many short down-climbs at low Class 3.

Below the whale rock, skip the ramp through the low cliffs. Swing wide to the left toward the drainage between Peak Ten and Jagged and walk down to the basin.

If things go wrong

Below the whale rock it's steep but easy ground back to the basin.

Last step: check in before you go →

3D flyover

See the trail on video

Other routes

Every way up Peak Ten we list, with its class.

• Peak Ten Southeast Face this routeClass 4 24.7 mi

Check in before you go

Send someone your peak, route, trailhead and when you’ll be back. If you’re late, they know where to send help.