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San Juan Range · Colorado 13er · No. 258 of the 13ers

North-Northeast Ridge from the Middle Fork

Heisshorn, 13,418'

Class 4 on very loose rock

The final 400 feet is exposed scrambling on stacked, loose boulders with a couple of barely Class 4 moves and big drops on the north side. There is little solid rock for a rope anchor. This page is an outline, not a move-by-move guide.

DifficultyClass 4
Round trip11.6 mi
Elevation gain3,381'
TrailheadMiddle Fork of the Cimarron River
Trailhead elevation10,050'
Less traffic, less margin

This describes the route on a dry summer day. Most 13ers see few people, so there may be no one along behind you. Check recent conditions the week you go, carry a map, tell someone your plan, and turn around when the day tells you to.

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Colorado 13er · North-Northeast Ridge from the Middle Fork

Is it right for you?

The Heisshorn (UN 13,418) is a remote, jagged summit where the Middle Fork of the Cimarron begins, between Coxcomb Peak and Wetterhorn. Some people rank it among the hardest 13ers. It makes a fine overnight backpack, camping near 11,600 feet about 4.4 miles up the trail.

A long trail walk leads to tundra below the north ridge. Above 13,000 feet the ridge becomes a pile of loose rock: a rubble ramp on the south side, a narrow catwalk, a traverse below small cliffs on the north side, and two short rock walls with loose rubble above. It is Class 4 with severe exposure.

The round trip is about 11.6 miles with 3,381 feet of gain. From the base camp it's about 2.8 miles and 1,831 feet round trip. El Punto, north of the pass, pairs well with it, and UN 13,382 and UN 13,215 are also close.

Plan of the day

Start by

From camp by 6 a.m.

Turnaround

Be on the 13,000-foot flat by 9:30 a.m.

Crux

The last 200 feet: two short walls and loose, stacked rubble.

Route-finding

Moderate. Mapping and satellite images of this peak are known to be off, so trust what you see.

Water

The Middle Fork and side streams. Cattle use the lower valley, so filter it.

This week on the summit

Conditions on the summit

Loading Fetching the forecast for 13,418'…
—Summit temp now
—Sustained wind
—Gusting to
—Freezing level
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Tomorrow

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Day three

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Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.

Getting there

Trailhead

Middle Fork of the Cimarron River

Find it on a map

From Montrose, drive east on US 50 about 2.7 miles past Cimarron. From Gunnison, drive west on US 50 past Blue Mesa Reservoir and over the 8,700-foot pass; the turn is about a mile past the County Road 864 turnoff. Turn south on Forest Road 858 toward Silverjack Reservoir. It's about 22 miles of graded dirt that cars can drive, but expect dust and washboard. From Ridgway, you can instead take County Road 8 (also Forest Road 858) east from US 550, about 2 miles north of town, over Owl Creek Pass.

About a mile past Silverjack Reservoir, turn right across the creek and then left almost at once onto Forest Road 861.1. (If you start climbing toward Owl Creek Pass, you missed it.) Follow 861.1 for 4.6 miles to the road's end and the Middle Fork of the Cimarron trailhead. Small streams have washed across this road in places, so high clearance is best, and conditions change.

The trailhead was once a campground. The tables are gone, but there are many flat primitive spots in the trees and a vault toilet. There are three Forest Service campgrounds just north of Silverjack Reservoir, and a big primitive area where 861.1 leaves the main road.

Before you go

Check these the week of your climb.

Official forecast

The National Weather Service forecast for the summit area, hour by hour. Look for thunderstorm chances and wind above treeline.

NWS point forecast →

Directions to the trailhead

Middle Fork of the Cimarron River. Road conditions near the trailhead change after storms. Check your clearance and have a backup plan for a lower lot.

Get directions →

Roads and highways

Closures, construction and winter conditions on the highways that get you there.

COtrip road conditions →

Closures and fire rules

Trail closures, fire bans and other alerts from the Forest Service in Colorado. For the latest on your trailhead, call the local ranger district.

Forest Service alerts →

Snow on the route?

From fall through early summer, any snow slope can slide. Check the avalanche forecast before you go.

Avalanche forecast →

Cell signal

Most trailheads and many summits have little or no signal. Check coverage near the trailhead and carry a satellite messenger or beacon if you can.

FCC coverage map →