North Ridge over Tomboy Peak

Overview

Chicago Peak rises just north of Imogene Pass on the ridge toward Tomboy Peak and T 5. Newer survey data added 6 feet. From the top of Imogene Pass it is an easy ridge walk; this page uses the Tomboy trailhead on the Telluride side.

You go up the rocky basin north of the trailhead to Tomboy Peak, return to the saddle east of it, and climb big boulders to reach Chicago's north ridge. Then it is an easy stroll to the flat top. It is Class 2+ and very rocky. Following the ridge straight from Chicago over to T 5 is very hard.

The loop over both peaks is about 4.4 miles with roughly 2,550 feet of gain. Mileage and gain are our estimates.

Plan of the day

Getting to the trailhead

This trailhead is on the Imogene Pass road (Forest Road 869) near the old Tomboy Mine, between Telluride and Ouray. You need a 4WD with good clearance from either side. The road is easier than Black Bear Pass, but don't underestimate it: local jeep clubs rate it 4 to 4.5 out of 5, with rocky ledges, tight turns and narrow shelves with drop-offs. Short vehicles do best; skip long-bed pickups. Conditions change, so check before you go.

From Telluride (shorter): Highway 145 becomes W. Colorado Ave. in town. Turn left on N. Aspen St. for 2 blocks, right on W. Galena St. for 1 block, and left on N. Oak St. for 1 block. The dirt Tomboy road leaves on the right. Climb it slowly for 3 to 4 miles to where a side road branches left, at about 11,300 feet, and park. Just past here the main road crosses a creek and reaches the Tomboy ruins.

From Ouray (longer): go south on US 550 about 0.4 mile to the first switchback and turn right on the Camp Bird Road (County Road 361). Near 5 miles, turn onto the signed Imogene Pass road. Cross the pass and drive down the Telluride side past the Tomboy ruins; about half a mile beyond them, park where a side road angles off to the right. Angel Creek and Thistledown campgrounds are on the lower Camp Bird Road (watch for private land). On the Telluride side, the town park campground fills fast, so many people sleep in their vehicle near the trailhead or the old Tomboy townsite.

Next: the route, step by step →

The route

1. 1

   Tomboy trailhead 11,300' · 0 mi

   Walk up the drainage east of the parking. It bends north into a basin. Tundra lasts a short way.

2. 2

   Rocky basin 11,900' · 0.8 mi

   Keep heading north up the basin, hopping from boulder to boulder.

   Watch for: Constant rock hopping.

3. 3

   Saddle 12,650' · 1.5 mi

   A little scree near the top leads to the saddle east of Tomboy Peak, where Chicago Peak's north ridge begins.

4. 4

   Tomboy Peak 13,101' · 1.8 mi

   Head west along the ridge to the top. It is almost all fractured rock with some deep cracks, and needs a little easy scrambling.

5. 5

   Back at the saddle 12,650' · 2.1 mi

   Return east down the ridge to the saddle.

6. 6

   North ridge 13,100' · 2.5 mi

   Scramble up a field of big rocks and boulders until you reach the crest of the ridge.

7. 7

   Chicago Peak 13,391' · 2.7 mi

   Walk easily to the fairly flat summit, covered in small rubble and dinner-plate talus. There is a small cairn and an old survey marker.

Getting down

Go back to the saddle. Several steep couloirs drop southwest off Chicago's ridge, but they may end at a cliff band, so skip them. From the saddle, head straight south: a little scree, then boulders, then tundra for the last stretch. Early in summer you may get to glissade.

If things go wrong

The saddle is the way out; the basin below it leads back to the trailhead.

3D flyover

See the trail on video

Other routes

Every way up Chicago Peak we list, with its class.

• Chicago Peak North Ridge this routeClass 2+ 4.4 mi