Summit FeverCOLORADO Sign in
San Juan Range · Colorado 13er

East Couloir and North Ridge from Clear Lake

Middle Point, 13,266'

Class 3 scrambling

Above the couloir, ledges and a narrow gully lead around a knoll, and the summit has mild Class 3 rock. The couloir itself is very loose. This page is an outline, not a move-by-move guide.

DifficultyClass 3
Round trip2 mi
Elevation gain1,340'
TrailheadClear Lake
Trailhead elevation11,985'
Less traffic, less margin

This describes the route on a dry summer day. Most 13ers see few people, so there may be no one along behind you. Check recent conditions the week you go, carry a map, tell someone your plan, and turn around when the day tells you to.

Check in
Colorado 13er · East Couloir and North Ridge from Clear Lake

Is it right for you?

Middle Point is the summit on the west side of Clear Lake, south of South Lookout Peak. People often mistake it for South Lookout. Newer survey data lowered it 34 feet and left it unranked, but it is still a fun, short climb.

From the lake you take the South Lookout trail north, then contour west to a big couloir and climb it to the low saddle between Middle Point and South Lookout. Ledges lead around a knoll to a narrow gully and a col, and Class 2 to mild Class 3 rock goes to the top.

The round trip is about 2 miles with 1,340 feet of gain. Most strong groups take 2.5 to 3 hours from the lake. It also pairs with South Lookout Peak.

Plan of the day

Start by

By 7 a.m.

Turnaround

Be at the top of the couloir by 10 a.m.

Crux

Loose couloir and the ledges above it.

Route-finding

Moderate. The way past the saddle is not obvious; go east around the knoll.

Water

Clear Lake. Filter it.

This week on the summit

Conditions on the summit

Loading Fetching the forecast for 13,266'…
—Summit temp now
—Sustained wind
—Gusting to
—Freezing level
Today

—

Tomorrow

—

Day three

—

Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.

Getting there

Trailhead

Clear Lake

Find it on a map

From the US 550 junction on the west side of Silverton, drive north on 550 for a little over 2 miles and turn west on Forest Road 585 (from Ouray, it is on the right after Red Mountain Pass, before Silverton). This graded dirt road reaches the South Mineral campground and trailhead in about 4.7 miles; the last mile is rougher but fine for cars.

About 4.2 miles in, at roughly 9,795 feet, the Clear Lake Road (Forest Road 815) branches off to the right. It needs 4WD with good clearance. It climbs eight switchbacks in the forest, then four more above the trees, to the lake at 11,985 feet. Conditions change; check before you go.

There is a little camping at switchbacks 6, 7 and 8, or a cold night at the lake parking. South Mineral Campground (26 sites, first come, first served) and designated dispersed areas along Forest Road 585 fill up on summer weekends.

Before you go

Check these the week of your climb.

Official forecast

The National Weather Service forecast for the summit area, hour by hour. Look for thunderstorm chances and wind above treeline.

NWS point forecast →

Directions to the trailhead

Clear Lake. Road conditions near the trailhead change after storms. Check your clearance and have a backup plan for a lower lot.

Get directions →

Roads and highways

Closures, construction and winter conditions on the highways that get you there.

COtrip road conditions →

Closures and fire rules

Trail closures, fire bans and other alerts from the Forest Service in Colorado. For the latest on your trailhead, call the local ranger district.

Forest Service alerts →

Snow on the route?

From fall through early summer, any snow slope can slide. Check the avalanche forecast before you go.

Avalanche forecast →

Cell signal

Most trailheads and many summits have little or no signal. Check coverage near the trailhead and carry a satellite messenger or beacon if you can.

FCC coverage map →