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San Juan Range · Colorado 13er · No. 386 of the 13ers

North Face Couloir from Storm King Pass

Peak Eight, 13,252'

Class 3 with exposure and rockfall

Peak Eight's north couloir is a rockfall trap of steep talus or snow, and the summit ridge is Class 3 on blocks with moderate exposure. Bring a helmet, ice axe and traction. This page is an outline, not a move-by-move guide.

DifficultyClass 3
Round trip14.5 mi
Elevation gain5,950'
TrailheadHunchback Pass
Trailhead elevation11,800'
Less traffic, less margin

This describes the route on a dry summer day. Most 13ers see few people, so there may be no one along behind you. Check recent conditions the week you go, carry a map, tell someone your plan, and turn around when the day tells you to.

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Colorado 13er · North Face Couloir from Storm King Pass

Is it right for you?

Peak Eight became a ranked 13er after new survey data in 2022. Of the newly ranked peaks it's the hardest to reach and the most technical, sitting west of Peak Nine in the Weminuche Wilderness. Plan a multi-day backpack from the Hunchback Pass trailhead.

You follow the Vallecito Trail 4 miles to Trinity Creek, ford Vallecito Creek, and thrash up Trinity Creek through deadfall to the Lake Silex basin and Storm King Pass. From there a slanting couloir splits Peak Eight's north face; it leads to Class 3 scrambling on solid blocks to the top. Recent reports suggest the unmaintained Leviathan Creek trail, to the Peak Eight–Nine saddle, may now be easier than Trinity Creek, but we don't have details on it.

The round trip is about 14.5 miles with 5,950 feet of gain. Climbing both Peak Eight and Peak Nine from Storm King Pass is about 1.4 miles and 1,230 feet more than the approach, or about 14.9 miles and 6,430 feet in all. Mileage and gain are our estimates.

Plan of the day

Start by

Leave camp before dawn.

Turnaround

Be at the couloir base by 9 a.m.

Crux

Loose couloir and the Class 3 summit blocks.

Route-finding

Hard. Recent reports describe Trinity Creek's lower mile as nearly trailless deadfall.

Water

Trinity Creek low down; little water up high. Carry plenty.

This week on the summit

Conditions on the summit

Loading Fetching the forecast for 13,252'…
—Summit temp now
—Sustained wind
—Gusting to
—Freezing level
Today

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Tomorrow

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Day three

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Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.

Getting there

Trailhead

Hunchback Pass

Find it on a map

This trailhead needs a high-clearance 4WD, and you should allow as much as two and a half hours from Silverton. From the northeast end of Silverton, take County Road 2 up the Animas about 4.2 miles to Howardsville. Turn right up Cunningham Gulch, then take the left fork onto the Stony Pass road. It climbs steeply over the pass and down the far side. You will ford Pole Creek, then turn right at a fork and ford the Rio Grande. Both fords are harder early in the summer. Then follow the Beartown road about 4 slow, rough miles past the old Beartown site and up a rocky, rutted stretch. The Hunchback Pass trailhead is about half a mile below Kite Lake, at roughly 11,800 feet, with limited parking.

You can also reach this area from Creede or Lake City by driving to Rio Grande Reservoir, but the road west of the reservoir has very rough sections. There is some camping near the trailhead and near the old Beartown site.

Conditions on Stony Pass and the Beartown road change from year to year, so check before you go. Trips from here into the Weminuche usually take several days.

Before you go

Check these the week of your climb.

Official forecast

The National Weather Service forecast for the summit area, hour by hour. Look for thunderstorm chances and wind above treeline.

NWS point forecast →

Directions to the trailhead

Hunchback Pass. Road conditions near the trailhead change after storms. Check your clearance and have a backup plan for a lower lot.

Get directions →

Roads and highways

Closures, construction and winter conditions on the highways that get you there.

COtrip road conditions →

Closures and fire rules

Trail closures, fire bans and other alerts from the Forest Service in Colorado. For the latest on your trailhead, call the local ranger district.

Forest Service alerts →

Snow on the route?

From fall through early summer, any snow slope can slide. Check the avalanche forecast before you go.

Avalanche forecast →

Cell signal

Most trailheads and many summits have little or no signal. Check coverage near the trailhead and carry a satellite messenger or beacon if you can.

FCC coverage map →