North Ridge from North Twilight Peak

Overview

Twilight Peak is the highest of the three Twilight summits in the West Needle Mountains, south of Molas Pass, with a grand view of the Needle Mountains.

You climb North Twilight Peak first, drop to the saddle, and follow the north ridge until a deep notch blocks it. A faint path contours west into a steep gully, and a narrow side gully leads up out of it. That part is Class 3 on mostly solid rock. Easy slopes finish the climb. Allow about 45 minutes from North Twilight.

The round trip from Andrews Lake is about 15 miles with 3,655 feet of gain. From Crater Lake, North Twilight and Twilight are about 4.5 miles and 2,405 feet. Twilight, North Twilight and South Twilight are usually done as one loop from a camp at Crater Lake, a 5.25-mile backpack from Andrews Lake on a good trail.

Plan of the day

Getting to the trailhead

Andrews Lake sits just off US 550 between Silverton and Durango. From Silverton, don't go into town; stay on US 550 as it switchbacks up to Molas Pass (10,899 feet, with a big pullout and vault toilets). Keep going 0.9 mile past the pass to the signed Andrews Lake turnoff on the left.

From Durango, drive north on US 550 over Coalbank Pass. The highway drops to a sharp bend near 9,800 feet and climbs again; the signed turnoff is 6.4 miles past Coalbank Pass. If you reach the top of Molas Pass, turn around and go back 0.9 mile.

A narrow paved road leads about 0.6 mile to the lake. The lower lot by the water is for day use. A fork climbs to a much larger upper lot for backpackers, horse groups and other overnight users, with picnic tables and vault toilets. Any car can get here. You can sleep in a vehicle at the upper lot, but tents aren't allowed. Little Molas Lake (Forest Service) and Molas Lake (run by Silverton, with pay showers) have campgrounds just north of the pass.

Next: the route, step by step →

The route

1. 1

   Crater Lake camp 11,620' · 0 mi

   From a campsite on the west shore, walk around to the lake's south end.

2. 2

   Basin south of the lake 12,000' · 0.35 mi

   From the south end of the lake, climb straight up through trees into an open basin of grass, low trees and rock outcrops.

3. 3

   Climbers' path 12,200' · 0.65 mi

   Higher in the basin a path shows up near a ridge that runs northeast. It climbs steeply just east of that ridge and enters a steep gully.

4. 4

   North Twilight Peak 13,084' · 1.3 mi

   The gully tops out on North Twilight's east ridge near 12,800 feet. Cross a small notch, then a bigger one (step down a bit on its north side and back up), and follow tundra and rock west to the long, flat summit. The high point is near the west end.

   Watch for: The big notch can hold snow early in the summer. Carry an ice axe then.

5. 5

   Saddle 12,780' · 1.55 mi

   Drop about 300 feet south to the saddle, past a big cairn of white quartz, and start up Twilight's north ridge on tundra and small scree.

6. 6

   Leave the ridge 12,950' · 1.75 mi

   Stop 100 to 150 feet below the big notch in the ridge, where the tundra runs out. A faint path contours right (west) to a rock point above a deep gully. Drop about 75 feet into the gully.

   Watch for: The step down into the gully is awkward.

7. 7

   Twilight Peak 13,162' · 1.9 mi

   A narrow, steep side gully is the only easy way out. Scramble it, about 150 feet of Class 3 on mostly solid rock with small grassy ledges. Near the top either branch works, and an easy slope leads to the summit.

   Watch for: Class 3 with some exposure.

Getting down

Go back over North Twilight and down its east ridge. Or go on to South Twilight and loop back to Crater Lake (see that page).

If things go wrong

Return to the saddle and over North Twilight to the east ridge.

3D flyover

See the trail on video

Other routes

Every way up Twilight Peak we list, with its class.

• Twilight Peak North Ridge this routeClass 3 15 mi