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San Juan Range · Colorado 13er · No. 571 of the 13ers

Southeast Ridge from Squaw Pass

Chief Mountain, 13,019'

DifficultyClass 2
Round trip35.85 mi
Elevation gain5,295'
TrailheadThirtymile Campground
Trailhead elevation11,200'

Conditions on the summit

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Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.

Colorado 13er · Southeast Ridge from Squaw Pass

Overview

Chief Mountain is a remote, fairly plain summit near the middle of the Weminuche Wilderness, south of Rio Grande Reservoir. Most people make it a backpack of three or four days and pair it with UN 12,992 (once listed as UN 13,010) across the valley. The forest along the way is mostly dead from beetles.

The Squaw Creek trail leads about 11.7 miles to Squaw Pass, gaining only about 1,900 feet. From camp, climb UN 12,992 first, then come back to the pass and follow the Continental Divide Trail northeast about 2.5 miles to a high pass. From there, about 1.25 miles of tundra on the southeast ridge leads to the top. It's Class 2. You don't need to visit the north summit, which looks higher but isn't.

From the trailhead, the whole trip with UN 12,992 is about 35.85 miles with about 5,295 feet of gain. From Squaw Pass, the two peaks together are about 12.45 miles and 3,395 feet. Chief Mountain alone is about 3.75 miles one way from where the Squaw Creek trail meets the Divide Trail.

Plan of the day

Start by

Leave camp by 6 a.m.

Turnaround

Be at the high pass on the Divide Trail by noon.

Crux

Just the distance.

Route-finding

Easy. Stay on the Divide Trail through the willows until you are within about a quarter mile of the pass.

Water

Squaw Creek and side streams. Filter it.

Getting to the trailhead

Trailhead

Thirtymile Campground

Find it on a map

From Highway 149, turn west onto Forest Road 520. The turn is about 20.5 miles west of Creede, or about 32 miles south of Lake City over Slumgullion and Spring Creek passes. The road starts paved, then becomes graded dirt. Stay on the main road toward Rio Grande Reservoir; most junctions are signed. Thirtymile Campground is about 10.8 miles from the highway.

The road is fine for passenger cars. Drive south across the river on a bridge into the campground. Hiker parking is on the north side of the campground road. Walk south across the campground loop to the trailhead for the Weminuche Creek trail, which shares a start with the Squaw Creek trail. Thirtymile and nearby River Hill are fee campgrounds that can be reserved.

Squaw Creek trail (Trail 814) starts from the same kiosk at Thirtymile Campground as the Weminuche Creek trail and heads south. It climbs steeply for half a mile, crosses Squaw Creek on a solid bridge, and then stays on the east side of the creek all the way. Past a gorge with cascades, the valley flattens into a long, gentle walk through mostly dead forest.

About 7 miles in, a trail to Squaw Lake crosses the creek; there's a good campsite just across it. To go on, don't cross: follow a fainter trail south on the east side through a marshy stretch. About 4 miles farther, the trail pushes through tall willows and meets the Continental Divide Trail at about 11,190 feet, just north of Squaw Pass. There are possible campsites in the trees west of the pass. Moose feed in these willows.

Before you go

Check these the week of your climb.

Official forecast

The National Weather Service forecast for the summit area, hour by hour. Look for thunderstorm chances and wind above treeline.

NWS point forecast →

Directions to the trailhead

Thirtymile Campground. Road conditions near the trailhead change after storms. Check your clearance and have a backup plan for a lower lot.

Get directions →

Roads and highways

Closures, construction and winter conditions on the highways that get you there.

COtrip road conditions →

Closures and fire rules

Trail closures, fire bans and other alerts from the Forest Service in Colorado. For the latest on your trailhead, call the local ranger district.

Forest Service alerts →

Snow on the route?

From fall through early summer, any snow slope can slide. Check the avalanche forecast before you go.

Avalanche forecast →

Cell signal

Most trailheads and many summits have little or no signal. Check coverage near the trailhead and carry a satellite messenger or beacon if you can.

FCC coverage map →

Less traffic, less margin

This describes the route on a dry summer day. Most 13ers see few people, so there may be no one along behind you. Check recent conditions the week you go, carry a map, tell someone your plan, and turn around when the day tells you to.