Sangre de Cristo Range · Colorado 13er · No. 134 of the 13ers
North Side
Tijeras Peak, 13,612'
DifficultyClass 3
Round trip10.4 mi
Elevation gain3,245'
TrailheadMusic Pass
Trailhead elevation10,680'
Conditions on the summit
LoadingFetching the forecast for 13,612'…
—Summit temp now
—Sustained wind
—Gusting to
—Freezing level
Today
—
Tomorrow
—
Day three
—
Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
Colorado 13er · North Side
Overview
Tijeras Peak, "scissors," looks fierce from Music Pass, but it has only one real obstacle: a cliff band in the basin north of the peak, broken by a Class 3 ramp.
Above the cliffs you walk tundra and then rock to the northwest ridge, scrambling big blocks to a small summit with views of the Crestones, Music Mountain and Pico Aislado. Early in the season the ramps can hold steep snow, near 50 degrees.
The round trip from the upper Music Pass trailhead is about 10.4 miles with 3,245 feet of gain. Most people backpack over Music Pass and camp in upper Sand Creek, then climb the next day.
Plan of the day
Start by
Leave camp by 6 a.m.
Turnaround
Be through the cliff band by 10 a.m.
Crux
The Class 3 ramp through the cliff band, and Class 3 blocks on the ridge.
Route-finding
Moderate. Pick the ramp in the middle of the cliff band, between sheer walls on each side. Mark it for the way down.
Head south out of Westcliffe on Colorado 69 and take Colfax Lane right after 4.5 miles. Where it ends, 5.5 miles along, go left on Music Pass Road (County Road 119). About 5.2 miles of good dirt brings you to the Grape Creek trailhead, the end of 2WD.
A 4WD can ford Grape Creek and climb almost 3 more miles of narrow, rocky road to the upper Music Pass trailhead, about 10,680 feet.
RidgeTrail in the treesTundraScramblingExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Music Pass trailhead 10,680' · 0 mi
From the north end of the upper lot, take the trail to Music Pass.
2
Music Pass 11,400' · 1.25 mi
Enjoy the view over Sand Creek to Tijeras Peak and Music Mountain.
3
Sand Creek flats 10,950' · 2 mi
Descend about 450 feet northwest to the flats.
4
Meadow camps 11,060' · 2.6 mi
At the top of the long meadow, just before the trail enters the trees, there are good campsites. Most people base here or at Lower Sand Creek Lake.
5
Lower Sand Creek Lake 11,470' · 3.6 mi
Take the side trail across the creek and up through the forest to the lake. There are more campsites on the east shore.
6
Northwest basin 11,900' · 4.1 mi
Follow paths around the north side of the lake, then work up through the forest into the basin below Music Mountain.
7
Cliff band 12,300' · 4.5 mi
Walk up the basin through willows. The cliff runs along the south side at about 12,200 to 12,400 feet. Use the ramp near its middle.
Watch for: Class 3. May hold steep snow early in summer.
8
Saddle 13,200' · 4.9 mi
Above the cliffs, cross tundra toward the saddle just southeast of Point 13,290; rock fields take over.
9
Summit 13,612' · 5.2 mi
Climb the northwest ridge, staying on the crest and scrambling large blocks. The sides are no easier.
Watch for: Class 3 in spots.
Getting down
Return the same way, finding your ramp through the cliffs. Another ramp at the far southeast end of the band also goes, but it is steep.
If things go wrong
Below the cliff band, the basin leads straight back to the lake.
3D flyover
No 3D flyover for this peak
Above Lower Sand Creek Lake the route is trailless. A flyover only works when there is a set trail to trace. Without one, the line would be a guess, and a guess could send you the wrong way on the mountain. Use the step-by-step route with a good map and GPS track instead.
See the trail on video
No video yet
We haven’t found a good video of this route that matches the way we describe it. The route strip, junctions and 3D flyover show the way in the meantime.
Other routes
Every way up Tijeras Peak we list, with its class.
Tijeras Peak North Side Approachthis routeClass 3 10.4 mi
This describes the route on a dry summer day. Most 13ers see few people, so there may be no one along behind you. Check recent conditions the week you go, carry a map, tell someone your plan, and turn around when the day tells you to.