Sangre de Cristo Range · Colorado 13er · No. 377 of the 13ers
North Face from the Broken Hand Saddle
Crestolita, 13,264'
Technical climb: Class 3 on loose rock
Crestolita's north face is split by a steep, loose couloir. Getting into and out of it takes Class 3 scrambling on ledges and steep tundra, and it may hold snow or ice early in summer. This page is an outline, not a move-by-move guide.
DifficultyClass 3
Round trip12.4 mi
Elevation gain4,900'
TrailheadSouth Colony
Trailhead elevation9,950'
Conditions on the summit
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Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
Colorado 13er · North Face from the Broken Hand Saddle
Overview
Crestolita is a small, entertaining peak south of Broken Hand Pass, easy to add to Broken Hand Peak.
From the Broken Hand-Crestolita saddle you contour across tundra ledges to the great couloir on the north face, enter it by a small ledge, cross its loose boulders and climb steep tundra and rock to the ridge. One party took 35 minutes from the saddle. It is Class 3.
Over Broken Hand Peak, the round trip is about 12.4 miles with 4,900 feet of gain. Mileage and gain are our estimates.
Plan of the day
Start by
By 6 a.m.
Turnaround
Be on Broken Hand Peak by 10:30 a.m.
Crux
Getting into and across the north-face couloir.
Route-finding
Hard. Spot the couloir from Broken Hand Pass before you start.
Head south out of Westcliffe on Colorado 69. Colfax Lane goes right after 4.5 miles; take it 5.5 miles to where it ends. Go right on the dirt road for a mile to a junction, and keep straight on road 120 a short 0.3 mile more to the 2WD parking (about 8,800 feet).
Vehicles with good clearance and 4WD can continue 2.7 miles to the South Colony Lakes trailhead, where the road has been gated since 2009 (about 9,950 feet). There are parking and camp spots before the river crossing.
RoadTundraTalus and screeRidgeScramblingExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
South Colony trailhead 9,950' · 0 mi
Cross the footbridge and walk up the old road, closed to vehicles.
2
Old road's end 11,000' · 2.8 mi
At the creek crossing where the road used to end, take either trail to the lower lake. The one along the creek is a bit longer.
3
Lower South Colony Lake 11,650' · 3.9 mi
Pick up the signed trail to Broken Hand Pass, the standard way to Crestone Needle.
4
Broken Hand Pass 12,900' · 5 mi
A well-built trail climbs the last 400 feet of talus to the pass, where a rescue cable rig stands.
5
Contour 12,700' · 5.15 mi
Lose about 200 feet on the far side, following the Cottonwood Lake trail, then contour south-southeast along the peak's flank below some rock outcrops.
6
Broken Hand Peak 13,575' · 5.7 mi
Climb a shallow tundra gully, switching gullies as needed to weave around cliffs and towers of conglomerate rock. The small summit is rocky.
Watch for: Class 2+.
7
Saddle 12,780' · 6 mi
Walk down the ridge to the saddle between Broken Hand and Crestolita, mostly tundra.
8
Couloir 12,900' · 6.2 mi
Contour west across the north face on tundra ledges to the big couloir. Climb a narrow tundra gully up the rock rib on its left about 100 feet, then follow a small ledge about 40 feet into the couloir.
Watch for: Class 3.
9
Summit 13,264' · 6.4 mi
Cross the steep, loose boulders, scramble out the far side, and climb very steep tundra and loose rock. Coming out just southeast of the higher west summit, turn right to the top.
Watch for: Class 3. Snow or ice early in summer.
Getting down
Head down north along the edge of the couloir, entering it as late as you can, and pick carefully down the loose gully to tundra above Cottonwood Lake. Join the trail and climb nearly 500 feet back to Broken Hand Pass.
If things go wrong
Return to the Broken Hand-Crestolita saddle and the path back to the pass.
3D flyover
No 3D flyover for this peak
Past Broken Hand Pass the route is trailless. A flyover only works when there is a set trail to trace. Without one, the line would be a guess, and a guess could send you the wrong way on the mountain. Use the step-by-step route with a good map and GPS track instead.
See the trail on video
No video yet
We haven’t found a good video of this route that matches the way we describe it. The route strip, junctions and 3D flyover show the way in the meantime.
This describes the route on a dry summer day. Most 13ers see few people, so there may be no one along behind you. Check recent conditions the week you go, carry a map, tell someone your plan, and turn around when the day tells you to.