Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
Colorado 13er · Southwest Ridge from Rinker Peak
Overview
Twin Peaks is the higher of two summits on the ridge northeast of Rinker Peak, above Willis Gulch south of Twin Lakes. It's usually added to a climb of Rinker.
You climb Rinker by its south slopes, return to the saddle, and walk the easy Class 2 ridge northeast over tundra and small rubble. The mile from the saddle looks long but goes fast.
Rinker and both Twin Peaks summits make a loop of about 12.75 miles with 4,917 feet of gain, coming down a grassy drainage instead of the long, loose northeast ridge.
Plan of the day
Start by
By 6 a.m.
Turnaround
Be on Rinker by 11 a.m.
Crux
The steep gully to the Rinker saddle.
Route-finding
Moderate. Pick out the descent drainage from the Willis Gulch Trail on the way up.
Between Leadville and Buena Vista, about 15 miles south of Leadville, turn west from US 24 onto Highway 82 toward Twin Lakes and Independence Pass. Drive about 8.5 miles; the Willis Gulch trailhead is signed, on the left (south). From Aspen, go over Independence Pass; the turn is on the right about 0.65 mile past the Parry Peak Campground turnoff.
Any car can make it. Campgrounds nearby include Twin Peaks and Parry Peak (first come, first served) to the west, and White Star and Lake View (reservations) near Twin Lakes. There are also many dispersed spots beside the Lake Fork above Twin Lakes. The area is busy on weekends.
Trail in the treesTalus and screeTundraRidgeExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Willis Gulch trailhead 9,285' · 0 mi
Cross the footbridge over Lake Creek. Go right, then left, then left again on the trail signed for Big and Little Willis creeks. Pass beaver ponds and climb to a junction; stay right.
2
Willis Creek bridge 9,700' · 1.3 mi
About a mile on, cross a footbridge to the creek's east side and turn right at the junction.
3
Big Willis junction 9,900' · 1.7 mi
In about 0.4 mile, stay right for Big Willis. The trail gets fainter.
4
Log bridges 10,400' · 2.6 mi
Use a flimsy log bridge over a side stream, then about half a mile later cross back to the north side on another.
5
Open terrain 11,000' · 3.6 mi
Leave the trees and walk southwest through boulder fields. Rinker's top stays hidden up to the right.
6
Base of the gully 11,700' · 4.6 mi
Stop below a big grassy slope that turns into a broad gully to the north. Leave the trail here.
7
Rinker-Twin Peaks saddle 13,200' · 5.5 mi
Climb northwest, nearly 1,500 feet. A faint old zigzag path helps up to about 12,400 feet; above that the gully gets steeper.
8
Rinker Peak 13,789' · 5.75 mi
Turn left and follow the Class 2 east ridge to the top.
9
Saddle again 13,200' · 6 mi
Go back down the east ridge to the saddle.
10
Twin Peaks 13,341' · 6.6 mi
Walk northeast along the crest on low tundra and small rubble to the higher Twin Peaks summit.
Getting down
Go on to the northeast summit (see that page) and come down the drainage from the saddle between them. Go back 0.1 mile to the saddle between the two Twin Peaks summits and head down the drainage to the southeast, about 1,800 feet, on steep but soft grassy tundra. Keep to the right side; the middle turns into a rocky gully. Weave through a couple of small cliff bands and a narrow spot about two-thirds of the way down, then follow the left (east) edge of a tundra and talus cone to the forest. About 200 feet of pleasant woods lead to the Willis Gulch Trail; follow it out.
If things go wrong
Head back to the Rinker saddle and down the gully.
3D flyover
No 3D flyover for this peak
Past the Willis Gulch Trail the route is trailless. A flyover only works when there is a set trail to trace. Without one, the line would be a guess, and a guess could send you the wrong way on the mountain. Use the step-by-step route with a good map and GPS track instead.
See the trail on video
No video yet
We haven’t found a good video of this route that matches the way we describe it. The route strip, junctions and 3D flyover show the way in the meantime.
Other routes
Every way up Twin Peaks we list, with its class.
Twin Peaks B Saddle Descent after Rinker Peakthis routeClass 2 12.75 mi
This describes the route on a dry summer day. Most 13ers see few people, so there may be no one along behind you. Check recent conditions the week you go, carry a map, tell someone your plan, and turn around when the day tells you to.