East Ridge from UN 13,291

Overview

UN 13,220 lies at the head of the North Fork of Lake Creek, looking down on Marten Creek and the Fryingpan's South Fork, with a distant view of the Williams Mountains.

From UN 13,291 you go back to the saddle (the only Class 3 part) and follow the ridge south and west, Class 2+ at most, often past snow cornices early in summer. A ramp on the left bypasses the rocky summit block.

The loop with UN 13,291 is about 10 miles with 3,350 feet of gain. On its own from the North Fork it's a Class 2 climb.

Plan of the day

Getting to the trailhead

From Aspen, drive east on Highway 82 over Independence Pass. On the east side, just below the final switchback as the road comes down into the North Fork Lake Creek valley, turn left onto a short dirt road to a small lot with a wood rail fence, just under 5 miles below the top.

From US 24, take Highway 82 west past Twin Lakes up the Lake Creek valley about 18.5 miles; the turn is on the right just before the first big switchback. Any car can make it. Camping at the lot is poor; there are campgrounds toward Twin Lakes.

Next: the route, step by step →

The route

1. 1

   North Fork Lake Creek trailhead 10,794' · 0 mi

   Walk north on the trail. For about 3 miles it gains little, passing lots of willows.

2. 2

   Climb begins 11,200' · 3.2 mi

   Past where the two main upper drainages meet, the trail climbs straight north up a broad slope beside a thin line of low trees. At a junction, go right; the left trail to Marten Creek is closed.

3. 3

   Unnamed lake 12,378' · 4 mi

   Cross a small ridge and the line of trees and climb northeast, with a few switchbacks, to the lake below the Divide.

4. 4

   Ridge break 12,900' · 4.4 mi

   Walk the west side of the lake to the pass, then leave the trail for a big couloir leading to the first break in the ridge to the west. Grass turns to rock and gravel.

5. 5

   UN 13,291 13,291' · 4.9 mi

   Climb UN 13,291 by the east-side ledges (see that page).

   Watch for: Class 3.

6. 6

   Saddle 13,050' · 5.2 mi

   Retrace your steps to the saddle north of the Divide bend and climb about 200 feet south on small rock.

7. 7

   Point 12,990 12,990' · 5.7 mi

   Follow the ridge south, then west near Point 12,990. Stay back from any cornices.

8. 8

   West saddle 12,700' · 6.2 mi

   Keep going to the 12,700-foot low point west of UN 13,220.

9. 9

   Summit 13,220' · 6.5 mi

   Climb the ridgeline east. Below the rocky summit block, take a ramp to the left onto open slopes and walk to the top.

Getting down

Go back to the 12,700-foot saddle and follow traces of the old Marten Creek trail southeast to the main trail, or walk down the southwest ridge, drop a short couloir, and make a long contouring descent southeast, through some willows, to the North Fork trail.

If things go wrong

The 12,700-foot saddle has an old trail down to the North Fork.

3D flyover

See the trail on video

Other routes

Every way up UN 13,220 we list, with its class.

• East Ridge from UN 13,291 this routeClass 3 10 mi