South Face Traverse from the Truro Saddle

Is it right for you?

West Truro is the lower, western summit of Truro Peak, above Galena Creek and Truro Lake.

From the Truro saddle you drop a little and follow a tundra bench across the south face, cross loose gullies and ribs, and climb a steep, secure gully of embedded rock to the west ridge. It is Class 3 and took one party about an hour and a half. The direct east ridge is harder than it looks.

The round trip from Portal Campground is about 9 miles with 2,900 feet of gain. Mileage and gain are our estimates. Adding Truro Peak adds about a mile and 500 feet.

Plan of the day

This week on the summit

Getting there

From Aspen, drive east on Highway 82 toward Independence Pass. About a mile past the Grottos trailhead, turn right at an information kiosk onto the Lincoln Creek road, which crosses the Roaring Fork right away. From the east, it's just under 4 miles below Lost Man Campground on the west side of the pass.

Cars should park at the kiosk or at Lincoln Gulch Campground. With a high-clearance 4WD, take the Grizzly Reservoir road, which branches left just before the campground. It is slow going over potholes and rock slabs: about 6 miles and more than half an hour to Grizzly Reservoir and the small Portal Campground (about 10,570 feet; toilets, first come, first served). The first 3 miles have 22 numbered campsites with bear lockers.

A gate just past Portal Campground is often locked until early July and may close again in fall; there is private land up the valley. When it's open, a high-clearance 4WD can go on toward the old Ruby Mine. Otherwise, walk or bike the road; a bike makes the ride back much faster.

Next: the route, step by step →

The route

1. 1

   Portal Campground 10,570' · 0 mi

   Walk, bike or drive (if the gate is open) south up the Lincoln Creek road.

2. 2

   Galena Creek 10,950' · 2.5 mi

   Go 2.5 miles up the road to where Galena Creek comes in below a big avalanche path off Truro Peak. Wade Lincoln Creek, then get onto the north bank of Galena Creek.

   Watch for: No bridge.

3. 3

   Upper valley 11,750' · 3.2 mi

   Climb about 800 feet up the avalanche path of grass, low willows and small conifers into the upper valley.

4. 4

   Truro saddle 12,800' · 3.9 mi

   Head up tundra and grass that steepens into small talus to the saddle linking the two Truro summits, above Truro Lake.

5. 5

   South-face bench 12,620' · 4 mi

   Drop 150 to 200 feet south and find a tundra bench running west across the south face.

6. 6

   Rock tower 12,800' · 4.2 mi

   Follow the bench west, then up toward a rock tower.

7. 7

   Steep gully 12,900' · 4.45 mi

   Keep cutting west across gullies and ribs of loose scree and talus to a small, very steep gully of tundra and embedded rock.

8. 8

   Summit 13,149' · 4.6 mi

   Climb the gully, then cross a rubbly slope to the west ridge and walk east over rocks to the top.

   Watch for: Class 3, some exposure.

Getting down

Walk down the west ridge to the next saddle, drop into the head of Galena Creek, and walk east on tundra, staying above the creek to avoid willows, to rejoin your route up.

If things go wrong

Retreat along the bench to the saddle.

Last step: check in before you go →

3D flyover

See the trail on video

Other routes

Every way up West Truro we list, with its class.

• W. Truro South face traverse this routeClass 3 7.25 mi

Check in before you go

Send someone your peak, route, trailhead and when you’ll be back. If you’re late, they know where to send help.