Tenmile Range · Colorado 13er · No. 96 of the 13ers
South Ridge
Wheeler Mountain, 13,698'
DifficultyClass 3
Round trip8.5 mi
Elevation gain2,900'
TrailheadMontgomery Reservoir
Trailhead elevation10,970'
Conditions on the summit
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Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
Colorado 13er · South Ridge
Overview
Wheeler Mountain rises above the head of Platte Gulch, just west of Hoosier Pass. The approach follows a rough 4WD road to Wheeler Lake, then climbs grassy benches and rock outcrops to a saddle on the south ridge. From the saddle a short but serious traverse across the west face leads to the top.
Everything up to the saddle is Class 2. The last quarter mile is Class 3: you cross several rock ribs on the upper west face, climbing up and down to stay below cliffs, then scramble easy ledges to the summit. It is not obvious, and route-finding is the real challenge.
The round trip is about 8.5 miles with 2,900 feet of gain. Most people need 6 to 8 hours. Wheeler is a good step up for hikers who have done a few Class 3 routes and want to practice finding their own way.
Plan of the day
Start by
By 5 a.m. The summit traverse is slow, and you don't want to be on it when a storm builds.
Turnaround
If you are not at the south ridge saddle by 10:30 a.m., turn around. The traverse takes longer than it looks.
Crux
The Class 3 traverse across the west face above the saddle, and finding the easy line to the summit through the final wall.
Route-finding
The road and lake are easy. Above the lake, keep your eye on the saddle on the south ridge and work toward it. On the west face, look for cairns and a large white 'Y' of rock below the summit.
Water
The creek along the road and Wheeler Lake. None above the small upper lake. Filter everything.
From Breckenridge, drive south on Highway 9 over Hoosier Pass. Less than a mile past the pass, turn west on County Road 4. Stay straight at the first two junctions, then keep right on the upper road. At about 1.4 miles you reach the parking area at Montgomery Reservoir.
Cars can usually continue across a small bridge and around the reservoir. The road gets rougher near 1.6 miles. About 1.7 miles in, a turnoff on the left leads to a small water building and concrete wall; park there. This is the trailhead.
RoadTundraScramblingRidgeExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Montgomery Reservoir trailhead 10,970' · 0 mi
Head west on the 4WD road up Platte Gulch. It is rocky but easy walking.
2
Platte Gulch road 11,500' · 1.5 mi
Follow the road up the valley. Stay right at the junction about 2.5 miles in.
3
Wheeler Lake 12,168' · 3 mi
Reach the lake. Walk along its shore toward the grassy headwall to the northwest. You'll pass an old wrecked car.
4
Headwall 12,450' · 3.3 mi
Follow bits of trail and cairns beside the stream up the headwall to a small unnamed lake.
5
Above the upper lake 12,600' · 3.5 mi
Step across the outlet and pick up an old path heading north, above the water. If you lose it, keep heading north above the lake's northeast end to a flat area with mining debris.
6
Slabs and outcrops 13,100' · 3.8 mi
Turn northwest toward the small saddle on the south ridge. The ground here is a maze of rock slabs and outcrops. Look for small cairns, but keep the saddle as your target.
Watch for: Easy to wander off line here. Check your direction often.
7
South ridge saddle 13,400' · 4 mi
Zigzag up grass to the saddle. Put your helmet on. The summit is about a quarter mile away.
8
West face traverse 13,500' · 4.15 mi
Don't climb straight up the south ridge. From the west side of the saddle, follow cairns onto the west face and traverse north across several rock ribs, climbing up and dropping down to avoid the cliffs above you.
Watch for: Class 3. A slip here could be serious. Test holds and move slowly.
9
Below the summit wall 13,600' · 4.2 mi
When you can see the summit, look for the large white 'Y' of rock on the west side. Climb to the wall beneath the top.
10
Summit 13,698' · 4.25 mi
The easiest line climbs toward a notch on the left, then works right along little Class 3 ledges a few feet under the top before turning left onto the summit.
Watch for: Pick your line before you start. Downclimbing is harder than going up.
Getting down
Reverse the route. Go back across the west face slowly, facing in where it feels steep, and retrace the traverse to the saddle. From the saddle, head back down through the slabs toward the flat mining area and the upper lake, then follow the headwall and road out.
If things go wrong
The saddle is the key escape point: once there, everything below is Class 2. If weather turns on the traverse, go back to the saddle rather than pushing for the top. From the lake the road is a safe, easy walk out.
3D flyover
No 3D flyover for this peak
The upper route has no set trail and ends with a Class 3 traverse across the west face. A flyover only works when there is a set trail to trace. Without one, the line would be a guess, and a guess could send you the wrong way on the mountain. Use the step-by-step route with a good map and GPS track instead.
See the trail on video
No video yet
We haven’t found a good video of this route that matches the way we describe it. The route strip, junctions and 3D flyover show the way in the meantime.
Other routes
Every way up Wheeler Mountain we list, with its class.
This describes the route on a dry summer day. Most 13ers see few people, so there may be no one along behind you. Check recent conditions the week you go, carry a map, tell someone your plan, and turn around when the day tells you to.