Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
Standard route · Southwest Ridge
Overview
Wilson Peak is the sharp, pyramid-shaped peak west of Telluride. The standard route from the Rock of Ages trailhead climbs through old mining country to the Rock of Ages saddle, crosses a loose slope to a smaller saddle with Gladstone Peak, then scrambles up the southwest ridge to a false summit. The final stretch from the false summit to the true top is a short but exposed Class 3 scramble.
The round trip is about 10 miles with 3,900 feet of gain. The lower half is a pleasant hike on trail. The upper mile is where the difficulty is: loose ground, exposed slabs and ledges, and a final pitch that looks intimidating from the false summit. It suits people who have done some Class 3 scrambling and are fine with exposure.
Most parties take 7 to 10 hours. You are above treeline for most of the climb, and the San Juans are known for fast-building afternoon storms.
Plan of the day
Start by
By 5 a.m. You need about 3 to 4 hours to reach the Rock of Ages saddle, and the slow scrambling above it should be done well before storms build.
Turnaround
If you are not at the Rock of Ages saddle by 9:30 a.m., or at the false summit by 11 a.m., turn around.
Crux
The final pitch from the 13,900-foot false summit. You downclimb about 50 feet, traverse stacked rock and ledges toward a dark gash in the face, then climb right to the ridge crest and up the last Class 3 section.
Route-finding
Easy to the Rock of Ages saddle. Above it, follow cairns and trail sections across the loose slope and the south side ledges. The key is the last stretch: aim for the dark gash without dropping too low, and cut up to the ridge crest just before it.
Water
Streams in the lower basins may run early in the season. There is no water on the upper mountain. Carry all you need from the trailhead, about 3 liters, and filter anything you collect.
From Ridgway on U.S. 550, take Colorado 62 west toward Telluride. Drive over Dallas Divide and down to Placerville, then turn left onto Colorado 145. After 6.7 miles, turn right onto the Silver Pick road, which is dirt. The trailhead is about 8.5 miles from here.
After 4 miles you come to an intersection; go right on road 59 H, which is also Forest Road 622. In 2.3 miles, go right again onto Forest Road 645. It runs 2.2 miles and ends at the Rock of Ages trailhead, around 10,350 feet. Roughly 1 mile along Forest Road 645 the road fords Big Bear Creek. By mid-July the crossing is usually easy, but earlier in the season it can run deeper, so look before you drive in. Designated campsites line this road. The route enters the Lizard Head Wilderness.
Trail in the treesTundraTalus and screeRidgeScramblingExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Rock of Ages trailhead 10,350' · 0 mi
Start from the parking area and follow the trail up through forest and meadows.
2
Into Silver Pick Basin 11,200' · 1.3 mi
The trail climbs out of the trees into Silver Pick Basin. Old mining roads, tailings and ruins are scattered around. Wilson Peak comes into view above.
Watch for: Stay out of old mine buildings and openings.
3
Upper basin 12,000' · 2.4 mi
The trail climbs steadily up the open basin on old roadbeds and trail, heading toward the saddle at its head.
4
Switchbacks to the saddle 12,600' · 3.3 mi
Switchbacks climb the steep slope below the saddle on dirt and scree.
5
Rock of Ages saddle 13,000' · 4 mi
Reach the Rock of Ages saddle. Navajo Basin drops away on the other side. Wilson Peak is to the east. Turn east and follow the trail.
Watch for: Check the weather and your time here.
6
Loose traverse 13,200' · 4.25 mi
The trail crosses the saddle and a rugged, loose slope heading east.
Watch for: Loose rock and scree. Watch your footing.
7
Wilson-Gladstone saddle 13,300' · 4.4 mi
Reach a small saddle between Wilson Peak and Gladstone Peak. From here the route goes around the south side of Wilson before climbing to the southwest ridge.
8
South side slabs and ledges 13,400' · 4.55 mi
Scramble across slabs and ledges on the south side, heading north. This is a bit exposed and is a good test for the final pitch.
Watch for: Exposure. Move carefully and use your hands.
9
Traverse to the ridge 13,550' · 4.7 mi
Past the scramble, follow cairns and bits of trail up a steep, loose slope to the southwest ridge. You reach the ridge near 13,550 feet.
Watch for: Loose rock. Watch for rocks knocked down by people above.
Wilson Peak's summit ridge · Photo: kalestews
10
Southwest ridge 13,800' · 4.8 mi
Climb along the ridge, mostly on its right side, to about 13,800 feet. There the trail moves to the left (north) side of the ridge.
11
False summit 13,900' · 4.85 mi
Follow a clear line about 100 feet to the 13,900-foot false summit. The true summit is now close, across a steep, rocky face. Look for a dark gash in the face; that is your target.
Watch for: Study the line before you go. The terrain away from it is loose and harder.
12
Downclimb and ledges 13,850' · 4.9 mi
Downclimb about 50 feet, then scramble across stacked rocks and ledges toward the gash. Do not drop lower than you need to.
Watch for: Exposed. Test holds; some blocks are loose.
13
Ridge crest below the summit 13,950' · 4.95 mi
Just before the gash, climb up to your right to reach the ridge crest.
14
Summit of Wilson Peak 14,021' · 5 mi
Turn left and climb the last Class 3 section to the small summit. Mount Wilson and El Diente are close by to the south.
Here Wilson Mesa Trail goes off to the right. Turn left to follow Rock of Ages Trail.
Coming down: Turn right to stay on Rock of Ages Trail. Don’t take Wilson Mesa Trail.
2Mile 1.2 · 11,130'
Turn left to stay on Rock of Ages Trail
Here Elk Creek Trail goes off to the right. Turn left to follow Rock of Ages Trail.
Coming down: Turn right to stay on Rock of Ages Trail. Don’t take Elk Creek Trail.
3Mile 2.2 · 11,850'
Keep right to stay on Rock of Ages Trail
Here Bedrock Placer Rd2 Road goes off straight ahead. Keep right to follow Rock of Ages Trail.
Coming down: Keep going straight on Rock of Ages Trail. Don’t take Bedrock Placer Rd2 Road.
4Mile 3.6 · 12,770'
Turn right to stay on Rock of Ages Trail
Here Charlie Fowler Trail goes off straight ahead. Turn right to follow Rock of Ages Trail.
Coming down: Turn left to stay on Rock of Ages Trail. Don’t take Charlie Fowler Trail.
5Mile 4.3 · 13,230'
Keep going straight to stay on Rock of Ages Connection Trail
Here Navajo Lake Trail goes off to the right. Keep going straight on Rock of Ages Connection Trail.
Coming down: Keep going straight on Rock of Ages Trail. Don’t take Navajo Lake Trail.
Landmarks to know
Old mine ruins and tailings in Silver Pick Basin.
The Rock of Ages saddle at 13,000 feet, with Navajo Basin on the far side.
The small saddle between Wilson Peak and Gladstone Peak.
Slabs and ledges on Wilson's south side.
The southwest ridge near 13,550 feet.
The 13,900-foot false summit.
A dark gash in the face between the false summit and the true summit.
Getting down
Reverse the route. Downclimb the final pitch carefully to the ridge crest, then down and left across the ledges toward the false summit, and climb the 50 feet back up to it. People sometimes follow ledges too low here and end up on loose, steeper rock. Stay close to the line you came on.
Follow the southwest ridge down to about 13,550 feet, then leave it and follow cairns down the loose slope and back across the south side slabs to the Wilson-Gladstone saddle. Cross the loose traverse back to the Rock of Ages saddle, and do not drop into Navajo Basin by mistake. From the saddle, head west and down the switchbacks into Silver Pick Basin and back to the trailhead.
If things go wrong
The Rock of Ages saddle is the main decision point. Below it, the trail drops quickly to Silver Pick Basin and treeline. Above it, the only safe way off is back the way you came; do not look for shortcuts down the faces. If a storm builds while you are on the ridge or the final pitch, turn back at once and move carefully, since the slabs and ledges get slick when wet. If someone is hurt, get them to stable ground away from rockfall, keep them warm, and send for help. Call 911 if you have signal. Rescue from the upper mountain can take many hours.
3D flyover
Press play to fly the Southwest Ridge. The graph shows elevation along the way and how much you gain each mile. Open full screen.
For planning only. The line is traced from open map data, not walked in the field, and off-trail parts are drawn straight. Load it in your GPS app to see the route, but navigate with your eyes, a map and the route description.
See the trail on video
A climb of this route filmed by The Virtual sherpa. The video belongs to them and only plays when you press play.
Jump to
Other routes
All 1 route up Wilson Peak, with the class and round-trip distance for each.
Class 3 means sustained scrambling with your hands, on terrain where a fall has real consequence. Build up on easier scrambles first, wear a helmet, go with someone who has led this kind of ground, and remember that downclimbing is harder than going up.
