Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
This is a snow climb. It is only safe when the snow is firm and stable, usually early in the morning in late spring and early summer. You need an ice axe, crampons, a helmet and the skills to use them. Check avalanche conditions before you go.
Snow route · Boudoir Couloir
Overview
Boudoir Couloir is a snow climb up the east face of Horseshoe Mountain, a 13er in the Mosquito Range above Fourmile Creek. The couloir rises out of the big horseshoe-shaped cirque that gives the peak its name. It gains about 900 feet of snow and tops out just a short walk from the summit.
The approach is easy walking on an old mining road and open tundra. The couloir itself is moderate snow. It looks steeper from below than it feels, but a fall could still carry you all the way down. It gets steeper near the top. This route suits climbers who already know how to use an ice axe and crampons.
Compared with the standard route, which follows mining roads to the ridge, this is shorter and more direct but needs snow gear and good snow. Plan on about 5 to 7 hours round trip, about 6 miles and 2,350 feet of gain.
Plan of the day
Start by
Before dawn, often 4 or 4:30 a.m. You want to be in the couloir while the snow is still firm from the night's freeze.
Turnaround
If the snow is soft and you sink past your ankles, or you are not near the top of the couloir by about 9 or 10 a.m., turn around. Warm, slushy snow is the main danger here.
Crux
The upper third of the couloir, where the angle increases before it eases near 13,800 feet.
Route-finding
Easy in clear weather. Follow the road to about 12,300 feet, then leave it and traverse southwest above the small lakes to the base of the couloir. The couloir line is obvious once you are in it.
Water
Snowmelt and the small lakes in the cirque are the only sources. Filter or treat anything you collect, and carry at least 2 liters from the car.
Head south out of Fairplay on U.S. 285 for just over a mile, then go right (west) on County Road 18, the Fourmile Creek road. About 10 miles in you pass the old Leavick town site near 11,250 feet.
About three-quarters of a mile past Leavick, near 11,600 feet, a 4WD road branches off to the left. Park here, or drive a bit farther up the 4WD road if it is dry and your vehicle can handle it. The main road continues about 2 miles to a gate and small lot at the standard trailhead; the last part is rough and best for high-clearance vehicles.
RoadTundraSnow or couloirRidgeExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
4WD road turnoff above Leavick 11,600' · 0 mi
Start walking up the 4WD road that leaves the Fourmile Creek road on the left. In early season the road may still hold snow.
2
Sharp left bend in the road 11,900' · 0.5 mi
The road makes a sharp turn to the left. You can follow it, or cut a more direct line to the southwest across open ground.
3
First view of Horseshoe 12,100' · 0.8 mi
Near 12,100 feet Horseshoe Mountain comes into sight to the west. Keep heading west on or near the road.
4
View of the cirque 12,300' · 1.2 mi
At about 12,300 feet the small lakes below the peak come into view, with the couloir directly ahead in the cirque wall. Take a minute to study the snow.
Watch for: Look for signs of recent slides or rockfall in the couloir before you go on.
5
Traverse above the lakes 12,600' · 1.7 mi
Head southwest off the road into the cirque, keeping above the lakes. Climb over a large pile of rock on the way.
Watch for: Rocks in the pile can shift. Step carefully.
6
Base of Boudoir Couloir 12,900' · 2.1 mi
Walk to the bottom of the couloir. Put on crampons and helmet here and get your ice axe in hand.
Watch for: From here up, a slip on hard snow can turn into a long slide. Be sure of every step.
7
Middle of the couloir 13,350' · 2.4 mi
Climb straight up the snow. The slope is moderate through the lower and middle part, and less steep than it looked from below.
8
Upper couloir 13,700' · 2.65 mi
The angle picks up as you near the top. The line is still clear. Kick solid steps and keep your axe ready.
Watch for: This is the steepest part. Rest only where you have good footing.
9
Top of the couloir 13,800' · 2.75 mi
Near 13,800 feet the slope quickly eases. A short walk brings you to the summit ridge.
10
Summit ridge 13,870' · 2.9 mi
Gain the ridge and turn toward the summit. You will pass a small building on the way.
11
Summit of Horseshoe Mountain 13,918' · 3 mi
Walk about a tenth of a mile along the ridge to the top. The views take in the Mosquito Range and the big cirque below you.
Watch for: Decide on your way down before you start. Soft afternoon snow in the couloir is dangerous.
Getting down
You can downclimb the couloir if the snow is still firm and you are comfortable facing in. Many people instead walk down the standard route to the east, following the ridge and mining roads, which avoids the snow. If you take the standard route, it ends at the gate on the Fourmile Creek road, so plan to walk the road back down to your car.
If things go wrong
Below the base of the couloir, just turn around and walk back to the road. Once in the couloir, the fastest escape is usually back down the way you came while the snow is still firm. If the snow turns soft or the weather changes near the top, it may be safer to finish the climb and descend the easier standard route. In an emergency, call 911 if you have signal.
Other routes
Every way up Horseshoe Mountain we list, with its class.
This describes the route in its usual season. Distances and elevations are close estimates for planning. Snow, ice, rockfall, a washed-out road or an afternoon storm can make it a very different climb. Check recent conditions the week you go and turn around when the day tells you to.