Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
Alternate route · West Ridge
Overview
The West Ridge of Pacific Peak is a short but serious scramble out of Mayflower Gulch. It is not the standard way up the peak. The ridge gives about 1,400 feet of Class 3 climbing on rock that is often loose and broken.
It suits climbers who are already at ease on Class 3 terrain and know how to test holds and move carefully on poor rock. Compared with the usual routes on Pacific, it is shorter but much more demanding, with steady route finding and some exposure near the top.
The round trip is about 4 miles with 2,600 feet of gain from the Boston Mine area. Plan on 5 to 7 hours, most of it spent on the ridge.
Plan of the day
Start by
By 6 a.m. The approach is short, so you reach the ridge early, but the scrambling is slow.
Turnaround
If you are not past the halfway point on the ridge by 10 a.m., or clouds are building, head down. Retreat on this ridge is slow.
Crux
The first steep Class 3 band near 12,800 feet, and a short steep gully above 13,500 feet that puts you back on the crest.
Route-finding
Moderate. The lower approach is partly trailless. On the ridge you must keep picking the best line around towers and bad rock.
Water
Mayflower Creek and Pacific Creek are on the approach. Nothing on the ridge. Carry 2 to 3 liters and treat creek water.
From I-70, take the Copper Mountain exit and drive south on Colorado 91 for about 6 miles. About 4 miles short of Fremont Pass, the big dirt Mayflower Gulch lot sits to the east of the road. Any car can reach it.
With good clearance and AWD or 4WD, you can drive about 1.4 miles up the Mayflower Gulch road to the old Boston Mine near 11,500 feet. Park along the road or in pull-offs below the gate. Space is limited. If you walk from the lower lot, add about 2.8 miles round trip.
Trail in the treesTundraRidgeTalus and screeScramblingExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Boston Mine parking 11,500' · 0 mi
Park near the gate below the mine ruins. Walk past the gate. Before you get to the old buildings, head left toward the creek.
2
Mayflower Creek willows 11,500' · 0.1 mi
Push through a short band of willows in the middle of the drainage and cross Mayflower Creek. Then hike north into the trees.
Watch for: Expect wet feet in early summer.
3
Forest below Mayflower Hill 11,650' · 0.35 mi
Look for a faint path heading north through the trees. If you lose it, keep going north. You will run into Pacific Creek either way.
4
Pacific Creek 11,800' · 0.6 mi
A trail runs along the creek's south bank; take it east up the valley.
Watch for: Last easy water on the route.
5
End of the creek trail 12,100' · 0.9 mi
The trail fades out. Keep following the creek east up to about 12,200 feet.
6
Turn toward the ridge 12,200' · 1.05 mi
Turn left and head northeast across open ground toward the foot of the west ridge. The whole ridge is in view from here.
Watch for: Study the ridge now and check the weather.
7
Base of the west ridge 12,600' · 1.35 mi
Start up steep, loose rock to gain the ridge. Move carefully and keep your group close together to limit rockfall.
Watch for: Wear a helmet from here up.
8
First Class 3 band 12,800' · 1.5 mi
Class 3 climbing starts. Go around the first large point on its right side, then climb carefully back up to the crest. Pass small rock outcrops and climb another steep step.
Watch for: This is one of the hardest parts. Test every hold.
9
Middle of the ridge 13,200' · 1.7 mi
Keep scrambling along the Class 3 crest. Some stretches have very poor rock. Past the halfway point, the climbing eases a little but still needs care.
10
Upper Class 3 section 13,550' · 1.85 mi
Above 13,500 feet you meet one last hard section. Keep a little to the right of the crest, then move back left as you near its top and climb a short, steep Class 3 gully back onto the ridge.
Watch for: Exposure here is real. Keep three points of contact.
11
Bump west of the summit 13,920' · 1.95 mi
Follow the ridge to a small high point just west of the top. The north couloir drops away steeply on your left.
Watch for: Stay back from the edge on the north side.
12
Summit of Pacific Peak 13,965' · 2 mi
Go down a few feet into a notch. A short, steep step then leads to the summit.
Watch for: The final step is short but exposed. Take your time.
Getting down
Most people go back down the west ridge the way they came. Descending loose Class 3 rock is slower and harder than going up, so allow as much time as the climb took. Face in on the steep steps, keep your group close, and do not stand below others. Once off the ridge near 12,600 feet, head back southwest to Pacific Creek, then south through the trees and willows to the mine.
If things go wrong
Before the ridge, you can turn back at any point and walk down the creek valley. Once on the ridge, the only good way off is the way you came. Do not try to drop down the sides; the faces are steep and loose, and the north side falls into a couloir. If storms threaten, turn back early rather than race for the top. In an emergency, call 911 if you have signal.
Other routes
Every way up Pacific Peak we list, with its class.
This describes the route in its usual season. Distances and elevations are close estimates for planning. Snow, ice, rockfall, a washed-out road or an afternoon storm can make it a very different climb. Check recent conditions the week you go and turn around when the day tells you to.