Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
This is a snow climb. It is only safe when the snow is firm and stable, usually early in the morning in late spring and early summer. You need an ice axe, crampons, a helmet and the skills to use them. Check avalanche conditions before you go.
Snow route · South Face
Overview
The South Face of Mount Harvard is a winter and spring snow climb. It follows the standard approach up Horn Fork Basin, then leaves it to climb a long snow gully on the right side of Harvard's south face to the summit ridge.
It is a moderate snow climb, Class 2 on rock. The gully starts in the mid 20s in angle and reaches about 39 degrees near 13,700 feet. You need an ice axe, crampons and a helmet, and you need to know how to self-arrest. It is not a good summer hiking route; in summer, use the standard route instead.
The round trip is about 13.75 miles with 4,600 feet of gain. Plan on 10 to 13 hours.
Plan of the day
Start by
By 3:30 or 4 a.m. You want firm snow in the gully and to be down before it gets soft.
Turnaround
If the snow is soft and slushy, or you are not near the top of the gully by late morning, turn back.
Crux
The steepest part of the gully near 13,700 feet, about 39 degrees, and the short scramble up to the summit ridge.
Route-finding
Moderate. The approach follows the standard route. Then find the right gully by its rock outcrops on the right and a rock tower halfway up.
Water
The creek low on the approach. Snowmelt higher up is not reliable. Carry 2 to 3 liters and treat any water.
About half a mile north of downtown Buena Vista, go west on County Road 350 (Crossman Ave). After 2 miles, turn right onto CR 361. After another mile, turn left onto CR 365, a dirt road.
Follow CR 365 for more than 5 miles to the North Cottonwood Creek trailhead at the end of the road. The trail leaves from the parking loop's west end. In spring, snow may block the upper road, adding miles.
Trail in the treesTundraExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
North Cottonwood Creek trailhead 9,900' · 0 mi
Begin at the trail on the parking loop's west end. Follow the standard route toward Horn Fork Basin.
2
Forest along the creek 10,600' · 2 mi
The trail climbs through forest along the creek. In spring it may be snow-covered, so follow the drainage.
Watch for: Snowshoes help on soft snow in the trees.
3
Lower Horn Fork Basin 11,500' · 3.9 mi
Leave the trees and enter the wide basin. Hike north along its right side.
4
Route split near a small hill 12,100' · 5 mi
Near 12,100 feet, go around a small hill, keeping it on your left. This is where you leave the standard route.
5
South face drainage 12,400' · 5.4 mi
Bear right (northeast) and follow the left side of the drainage below Harvard's south face. It is easier to stay a little up on the left than in the bottom.
6
View of the south face 12,800' · 5.8 mi
Above 12,400 feet, angle left (northwest). By 12,800 feet the whole face is in view. Stop and study it. Look to the right for a gully with rock outcrops on its right and a rock tower halfway up.
Watch for: Look for slide paths and cornices before you commit.
7
Base of the gully 13,000' · 6 mi
Hike north to the foot of the gully and start climbing. The first part is in the mid 20 degrees.
Watch for: Put on crampons and helmet.
8
Rock tower 13,500' · 6.3 mi
Keep climbing. At about 13,500 feet the rock tower is on your right. Depending on snow, there may be rocky patches partway up the gully.
9
Steepest snow 13,700' · 6.45 mi
The gully reaches its steepest angle, about 39 degrees, near here.
Watch for: A fall here could slide a long way. Keep your axe ready.
10
Top of the gully 14,000' · 6.65 mi
Near 14,000 feet the gully widens. The summit lies above you, to the left. Angle left and climb over the left edge of the upper gully.
Watch for: Note this spot. You need to find it again on the way down.
11
Summit of Mount Harvard 14,424' · 6.9 mi
Cross an upper snowfield west and northwest to the rocks below the summit ridge. The top is where the ridge ends on the left. Pick the easiest line up the last rocks.
Watch for: The final rocks can be icy.
Getting down
Most people go back down the same gully. From the summit, cross the upper snowfield and turn left to find the top of the gully again. Face in on the steep part if the snow is hard. Then walk out the basin and the trail. Descending the standard route is an option if you know it and the slope is safe.
If things go wrong
Below the gully you can turn around at any time and go back down the basin. In the gully, retreat means downclimbing snow. If the snow gets soft, or rocks or small slides start coming down, leave early. In an emergency, call 911 if you have signal. Rescue can take many hours.
Other routes
Every way up Mount Harvard we list, with its class.
This describes the route in its usual season. Distances and elevations are close estimates for planning. Snow, ice, rockfall, a washed-out road or an afternoon storm can make it a very different climb. Check recent conditions the week you go and turn around when the day tells you to.
