Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
This is a snow climb. It is only safe when the snow is firm and stable, usually early in the morning in late spring and early summer. You need an ice axe, crampons, a helmet and the skills to use them. Check avalanche conditions before you go.
Snow route · Cross Couloir
Overview
The Cross Couloir is the long snow gully that forms the upright of the famous cross on the east face of Mount of the Holy Cross. This route crosses Half Moon Pass, drops to East Cross Creek, then works up a long rocky valley to Bowl of Tears. From there it climbs part of the east face to enter the couloir near 13,000 feet and follows it to the summit. The round trip is about 12.25 miles with around 5,600 feet of gain.
This is a steep snow climb rated Class 3. The couloir starts near 40 degrees and gets steeper than 45 degrees right under the top. It is for experienced snow climbers who are solid with an ice axe and crampons. The approach is long and tedious, with boulders and willows and little trail in the upper valley.
Compared with the standard north ridge, it is much harder, longer and more serious. Plan on 11 to 14 hours, or split it by camping near East Cross Creek. Most people go down the north ridge.
Plan of the day
Start by
Very early, often by 3 a.m. from the trailhead, or before dawn from a camp at East Cross Creek. You want firm snow in the couloir.
Turnaround
If you are not at the couloir entry near 13,000 feet by about 8 a.m., or the snow is already soft, turn back. Do not start up the couloir in warm, wet snow.
Crux
The upper couloir, where the slope passes 45 degrees just below the summit.
Route-finding
Hard. Find the faint trail that leaves East Cross Creek heading southeast. It is easy to lose, especially with snow below treeline. Above 11,600 feet there is no trail. You must also find the right line up the east face to enter the couloir above the cliffs.
Water
East Cross Creek and the upper valley stream have water. Filter it. Carry enough for the long climb above Bowl of Tears.
Leave Interstate 70 at Exit 171 and drive U.S. 24 south through Minturn. About 3 miles past town, turn west (right) on the Tigiwon Road. The dirt surface is somewhat rough, yet ordinary cars generally reach the end. Drive about 8.5 miles to the trailhead at the road's end.
The Tigiwon Road stays gated every year from late November until about the third week of June. You may walk or bike the road when it is closed, which adds many miles. If you plan to go near the opening date, call the local Forest Service ranger district to check. Wilderness registration is required, so sign in at the trailhead.
RidgeTrail in the treesTalus and screeTundraSnow or couloirExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Half Moon trailhead 10,300' · 0 mi
Sign the wilderness register. Start up the Half Moon trail through the forest.
2
Half Moon Pass 11,600' · 1.5 mi
Go over the pass. The trail then loses height gradually as it heads west. Below about 11,400 feet you can see Holy Cross and the lower part of the couloir to the southwest.
3
East Cross Creek 10,650' · 2.9 mi
The trail goes over a shoulder of Notch Mountain and drops steeply to the creek, losing about 1,000 feet from the pass. Designated campsites are on the north side of the creek.
Watch for: Remember you must climb back up to the pass on the way out.
4
Faint trail south of the creek 10,700' · 3 mi
Right after crossing the creek, turn left into some closed old campsites. Cross a small stream that drains a nearby pond and look for a faint trail heading southeast.
Watch for: Easy to miss. Study a map beforehand, especially with snow on the ground.
5
Rocky section 11,200' · 3.6 mi
The trail heads southeast and then turns south through big boulders and steep ground. Near 11,200 feet the trail swings southwest up some rocky ground, then zigzags through more boulders.
6
Upper East Cross Creek 11,600' · 4.1 mi
Leave the trees and enter the open upper valley. The trail usually fades out here. Head south along the creek.
7
Boulders and willows 11,800' · 4.6 mi
Climb right to get around a band of large rocks, then find a narrow gap through boulders. Weave through willows and lots of rock. You pass below the bottom of the couloir, which is cut off by cliffs.
Watch for: Tedious travel. Budget extra time.
8
Bowl of Tears 11,950' · 5 mi
Pass the outlet of the lake and walk along its west shore, below the east face of Holy Cross.
Watch for: Last easy water.
9
East face 12,600' · 5.4 mi
Turn right and climb the east face. Take the easiest way through several rock bands, heading west.
Watch for: Loose rock and possible rockfall.
10
Couloir entry 12,980' · 5.6 mi
Above 12,600 feet, angle right (north) onto tundra and climb to the entry of the couloir just under 13,000 feet. The cliffs you went around are just below you.
Watch for: Put on crampons and helmet before you enter.
11
Mid-couloir 13,400' · 5.8 mi
The slope starts near 40 degrees right away. It eases a little near 13,400 feet. The line is obvious from here.
Watch for: A fall in the couloir is very hard to stop.
12
Upper couloir 13,900' · 6 mi
The angle steepens again, going past 45 degrees right under the top. Kick solid steps and keep your axe planted.
Watch for: Steepest snow of the route.
13
Summit of Mount of the Holy Cross 14,007' · 6.1 mi
Exit the couloir and turn right to reach the summit.
Getting down
Unless you are skiing or riding the couloir, go down the standard north ridge route. It follows a rocky ridge north and then a trail back down to East Cross Creek. From the creek, climb back about 1,000 feet to Half Moon Pass and descend to the trailhead.
If things go wrong
Before the couloir, the way out is back down the valley to East Cross Creek, then over Half Moon Pass. Once in the couloir, retreat means downclimbing steep snow facing in. If you are near the top, finishing and taking the north ridge down is often safer. If a storm arrives, get off the summit area fast by the north ridge. In an emergency, call 911 if you have signal. Rescue in this area takes a long time.
Other routes
Every way up Mount of the Holy Cross we list, with its class.
This describes the route in its usual season. Distances and elevations are close estimates for planning. Snow, ice, rockfall, a washed-out road or an afternoon storm can make it a very different climb. Check recent conditions the week you go and turn around when the day tells you to.
