Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
This is a snow climb. It is only safe when the snow is firm and stable, usually early in the morning in late spring and early summer. You need an ice axe, crampons, a helmet and the skills to use them. Check avalanche conditions before you go.
Snow route · Southeast Gully
Overview
The Southeast Gully is a spring snow climb that starts off the South Colony Lakes road and goes up Humboldt Peak. It follows an avalanche gully up through the forest and then a broad slope to the summit. With firm snow filling it, this gully is the top snow route on Humboldt from this side.
It is rated Class 2 with moderate snow. It suits climbers who are comfortable with an ice axe and crampons and with finding their way off-trail. There is no trail above the road. It is steeper and more direct than the standard west ridge route, and it avoids the long walk up to the lakes.
The route record lists about 8 miles round trip and 5,500 feet of gain. Where you park makes a big difference, since snow often closes the road low in spring. Plan on 8 to 11 hours.
Plan of the day
Start by
Very early, often 3 or 4 a.m. You may have extra road miles, and you want to be off the snow before it softens.
Turnaround
If you have not reached treeline near 11,800 feet by about 8 a.m., or the snow is soft and deep, turn back. The summit is still more than 2,000 feet above.
Crux
Getting around the cliff band in the gully, which needs some steep hiking on either side, and the long, sustained snow slope above treeline.
Route-finding
Moderate. Leave the road near 10,840 feet and head northwest through forest with no trail. A GPS helps here. Above treeline the route is obvious.
Water
The creek near the upper trailhead. It may be frozen. Carry 2 to 3 liters, or bring a stove to melt snow.
From Westcliffe, drive south on Colorado 69 for 4.5 miles. Turn right on Colfax Lane and follow it 5.5 miles to its end. Go right and follow the dirt road for 1 mile until you hit a junction. Continue straight onto the 120 Road; the lower trailhead, at about 8,800 feet, is 0.3 mile up.
The road continues 2.7 miles to the upper trailhead near 9,950 feet, where it is gated. In spring, snow often blocks the road below that. You pass a few small pull-offs on the way, and there is a bigger parking spot at the Rainbow Trail junction near 9,800 feet. Drive as high as conditions allow, then walk or skin the rest.
RoadTrail in the treesTundraRidgeExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Upper trailhead and stream crossing 9,950' · 0 mi
From your parking spot, walk or skin up the road to the upper trailhead. Cross the stream, or follow the south bank a short way and cross on the footbridge.
Watch for: Parking lower adds distance. The lower trailhead is about 2.7 miles down the road.
2
South Colony Lakes road 10,500' · 1 mi
Get back on the old road and follow it west. It climbs gently through the forest.
3
Leave the road 10,840' · 1.8 mi
Near 10,840 feet, turn right off the road and head northwest into the forest. There is no trail from here on.
Watch for: Easy to go too far on the road. Watch your elevation.
4
Base of the gully 11,100' · 2.1 mi
Keep going northwest to the bottom of the gully. It is lined with small aspens and pines, a sign of past avalanches.
5
Cliff band 11,400' · 2.4 mi
A cliff band crosses the whole gully. Bypass it by either side; expect some steep hiking. Then drop back into the gully above it.
Watch for: If there is no snow in the gully here, hiking up its left (west) side can be easier.
6
Gully opens 11,600' · 2.6 mi
Near 11,600 feet the gully widens and you can see the rest of the route.
7
Treeline 11,800' · 2.8 mi
Above treeline the southeast flank and the gully are both clear. The summit is in view but still about 2,200 feet higher.
Watch for: If the gully is packed with wind-blown snow, climb the flank to the left instead.
8
Upper slopes 13,000' · 3.4 mi
Keep climbing northwest on snow or the flank. The slope is long and steady.
Watch for: Look back now and then for building weather.
9
Summit area comes into view 13,700' · 3.8 mi
Above 13,700 feet the summit becomes clearer. Keep left, or stay in the gully until it fades out a little under the top.
10
Humboldt Peak summit 14,068' · 4 mi
Just below the top, this route meets the east ridge route. Walk to the summit.
Getting down
Most parties go down the way they came. Descend southeast on the flank or gully to treeline. Enter the gully, go around the cliff band, and head southeast through the forest to the road near 10,840 feet. Then follow the road back east to the stream crossing and your car. If the snow is firm enough, you can glissade some of the upper slope, but take off your crampons first and keep your speed under control.
If things go wrong
The fastest way down is always back along your route to treeline and the road. The forest gives shelter from wind. If the gully looks unstable, use the flank to the west instead. If someone is hurt, get them warm and call 911 if you have signal. In spring there may be no one else on this route.
Other routes
Every way up Humboldt Peak we list, with its class.
This describes the route in its usual season. Distances and elevations are close estimates for planning. Snow, ice, rockfall, a washed-out road or an afternoon storm can make it a very different climb. Check recent conditions the week you go and turn around when the day tells you to.
