Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
This is a snow climb. It is only safe when the snow is firm and stable, usually early in the morning in late spring and early summer. You need an ice axe, crampons, a helmet and the skills to use them. Check avalanche conditions before you go.
Snow route · Outward Bound Couloir
Overview
The Outward Bound Couloir is a steep snow climb on Kit Carson Peak from the Willow Creek side. It climbs a couloir that ends at a small saddle between Columbia Point and Kit Carson, then crosses a rib onto the face and joins the standard summer route to the top. It is rated Class 3 with steep snow.
This route is for experienced snow climbers. The couloir averages about 43 degrees and can pass 50 degrees near the exit, where there may be a cornice. It is much steeper and more committing than the standard route. You need solid ice axe and crampon skills.
The round trip is about 13.75 miles with about 5,500 feet of gain. Many people camp near Willow Lake and climb the next morning. From camp, plan on 6 to 9 hours round trip.
Plan of the day
Start by
From a camp near Willow Lake, start by 3 or 4 a.m. so the snow is firm in the couloir.
Turnaround
Turn back if the snow is soft, unstable or icy beyond your skills, or if a large cornice hangs over the exit.
Crux
The upper couloir from about 13,000 to 13,700 feet, averaging about 43 degrees and steeper at the exit.
Route-finding
Moderate. Above the lake there is only a faint trail and small cairns. Traverse below the cliffs of Kit Carson's north ridge until the apron below the couloir opens up.
Water
Willow Creek and Willow Lake. Filter it. Carry 2 liters for the climb above the lake.
Follow Colorado 17 to Moffat. At the south end of town, a sign for Crestone marks Road T; go east on it. Drive about 11.5 miles to Crestone.
In town, go straight, turn left on Alder Street, then right on Galena. Galena turns to dirt outside town and becomes Forest Service road 949. The trailhead is about 2 miles farther.
Talus and screeTundraRidgeSnow or couloirExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Willow Creek trailhead 8,900' · 0 mi
Follow the Willow Lake trail up the valley. The trail is long and climbs steadily.
2
Willow Lake 11,600' · 4.7 mi
As you get close to the lake, the trail bends left, leaves the trees and reaches a boulder field. Traverse a slope to reach level ground above the waterfall at the lake's east end.
Watch for: This is a common camp area. Follow local camping rules.
3
Flat area above the lake 11,800' · 5 mi
Cross the stream and follow small cairns and bits of trail across the flat. Above 11,800 feet, angle left through willows.
4
Base of Challenger's north slope 11,900' · 5.2 mi
After you get above the creek, go southeast to the cliffs where Kit Carson's north ridge begins.
5
Traverse below the north ridge 12,600' · 5.8 mi
Keep traversing southeast until Columbia Point is back in view. Stay below the rocks and cliffs.
6
Apron below the couloir 12,800' · 6 mi
The ground opens into the snow apron below the couloir. Turn right and climb southwest toward its entrance.
7
Couloir entrance 13,000' · 6.2 mi
The slope steepens to about 40 degrees. Climb about 700 feet to the top.
Watch for: Avalanche and fall risk are high. Only climb on stable, firm snow.
8
Saddle at the top of the couloir 13,700' · 6.4 mi
The exit can go past 50 degrees and may have a cornice. At the saddle, drop a few feet south and traverse right onto a small rib.
Watch for: Avoid the cornice. Find the safest way around it.
9
Rib and face 13,900' · 6.6 mi
Get over the rib and move west onto the face, where you meet the usual summer route.
10
Summit of Kit Carson Peak 14,167' · 6.9 mi
Gain the summit ridge; it leads you to the top.
Getting down
Most climbers descend the standard summer route rather than downclimbing the steep couloir. If you are confident and the snow is still firm, you can go back down the couloir facing in. Either way, return to Willow Lake and follow the trail back to the trailhead.
If things go wrong
Below the couloir, retreat across the apron and back toward the lake. Once in the couloir, downclimbing facing the slope is possible but slow. Above the saddle, going on to the standard route is usually safer than reversing the couloir. For injuries, keep the person warm and call 911 if you have signal. Rescue here is slow and difficult.
Other routes
Every way up Kit Carson Peak we list, with its class.
This describes the route in its usual season. Distances and elevations are close estimates for planning. Snow, ice, rockfall, a washed-out road or an afternoon storm can make it a very different climb. Check recent conditions the week you go and turn around when the day tells you to.
