Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
This is a snow climb. It is only safe when the snow is firm and stable, usually early in the morning in late spring and early summer. You need an ice axe, crampons, a helmet and the skills to use them. Check avalanche conditions before you go.
This is a technical climb. Falls here can be fatal. It is for experienced climbers who are comfortable on steep, exposed rock and can decide when to turn back.
Snow route · Bell Cord Couloir
Overview
The Bell Cord Couloir is a long, narrow snow gully between Maroon Peak and North Maroon Peak. You hike past Crater Lake, climb steep slopes to the base of the couloir, then go up about 1,800 feet of snow to a tiny saddle near 13,800 feet. From there you climb loose ledges and walls to reach Maroon Peak's summit.
This is a Class 4 steep snow route for experienced climbers. The couloir averages about 42 degrees and steepens to 45 in spots, and it narrows to about 15 feet wide. The rock above the saddle is loose and exposed. It is far more serious than Maroon's standard route. The trip is about 8 miles with about 4,600 feet of gain.
Plan on 10 to 13 hours. The couloir is long, and the rock above it is slow going.
Plan of the day
Start by
Very early, around 2 a.m. You want to climb the couloir while the snow is hard and before the sun hits it.
Turnaround
If you have not reached the bottom of the narrow couloir near 12,000 feet by about 6 a.m., or the snow is not firm, turn around.
Crux
The long, narrow couloir with its 45-degree sections, and then the Class 4 rock above the saddle on the way to the ridge.
Route-finding
The couloir is obvious once you are in it. The approach below it needs care to avoid cliffs. Above the saddle, follow cairns and ledges on the west side of the ridge.
Water
Streams near Crater Lake and the valley below the couloir. Carry 2 to 3 liters from there.
In Aspen, go to the roundabout just west of town, where the Maroon Creek road begins. Drive about 3.2 miles past a ranch to a Forest Service entrance station at about 4.7 miles. The trailhead is at the end of the road, about 9.5 miles from the roundabout.
Between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m. in summer, private cars may not drive beyond the entrance station. Plan to pass through outside those hours if you hold a parking permit or someone is dropping you off.
Trail in the treesTalus and screeSnow or couloirScramblingRidgeExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Maroon Lake trailhead 9,590' · 0 mi
Leave the parking lot and walk west on the main trail to a junction on the right for Crater Lake.
2
Crater Lake trail junction 9,620' · 0.2 mi
Turn right and follow the trail up toward Crater Lake.
3
Junction near Crater Lake 10,050' · 1.7 mi
After about 1.5 miles, turn left and head down toward Crater Lake.
4
Stream crossing 10,280' · 2.7 mi
Follow the trail along the lake and up the valley's right side. About a mile past the junction you reach a small, seasonal stream at 10,280 feet. Leave the trail here. The couloir is up and to your right.
5
Lower slopes 11,200' · 3 mi
Climb snow or scree up steep slopes toward the bottom of the couloir. In early season a direct line straight up may work. A traverse right and then back left is often easier and keeps you away from a lower gully's cliffs.
Watch for: Keep away from the cliffs in the lower gully.
6
Base of the narrow couloir 12,000' · 3.3 mi
Reach the narrow part of the couloir near 12,000 feet. Put on helmet and crampons if you have not already.
7
Middle of the couloir 12,900' · 3.55 mi
The snow averages about 42 degrees, with a few spots near 45. The gully narrows to about 15 feet. Keep climbing.
Watch for: Rockfall and sloughing snow can funnel down the narrow gully.
8
Saddle at the top 13,800' · 3.8 mi
Top out at a tiny saddle near 13,800 feet between the two Maroon peaks.
9
West-side ledges 13,850' · 3.85 mi
Turn left and go around the west side of the ridge on ledges. Either follow cairns to a loose gully and climb it to the crest, or climb a Class 4 wall straight up to the crest.
Watch for: Loose rock. The rock gets more solid the sooner you move left out of the gully.
10
Wall and ledges 14,000' · 3.95 mi
From the top of the gully, look for a cairn just right of the crest. Climb a short wall to another ledge, then back up to the crest. Use a ledge on the right to get around the next cliffy section.
Watch for: Exposure is real here. Use three points of contact.
11
Summit of Maroon Peak 14,163' · 4 mi
The last part is no harder than Class 3. You reach the summit from its southeast side.
Getting down
Plan your descent before you go. Maroon Peak's standard route is a common way down, but it is long, loose and has hard route-finding, so know it well ahead of time. Downclimbing the couloir is only reasonable if you can get back to the saddle and the snow is still firm. Either way, take your time on the loose rock near the summit.
If things go wrong
Below the base of the couloir, turn around and walk back down the valley. Once in the couloir, you can downclimb if the snow is firm, but it is steep and long. If conditions go bad in the upper couloir, reaching the saddle may be the best option. Call 911 if someone is hurt. Rescue in this terrain is slow and hard.
This describes the route in its usual season. Distances and elevations are close estimates for planning. Snow, ice, rockfall, a washed-out road or an afternoon storm can make it a very different climb. Check recent conditions the week you go and turn around when the day tells you to.
