Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
This is a snow climb. It is only safe when the snow is firm and stable, usually early in the morning in late spring and early summer. You need an ice axe, crampons, a helmet and the skills to use them. Check avalanche conditions before you go.
Snow route · North Face Couloirs
Overview
The North Face Couloirs of Missouri Mountain are snow climbs up the peak's north side from the head of Missouri Gulch. Several couloirs cut the face. This description follows the main, direct couloir. A slightly easier one, often called the C Couloir, lies to its right. The rating is hard Class 2 with moderate snow.
It suits climbers who already know how to use an ice axe and crampons and want a classic early-summer snow route. It is also a popular ski and snowboard descent. It is steeper and more committing than the standard summer route, which uses a trail up the ridge.
It is about 9 miles round trip with roughly 4,500 feet of gain. Most parties take 7 to 10 hours.
Plan of the day
Start by
By 3:30 or 4 a.m. You want to climb firm, frozen snow and be off the face before the sun softens it.
Turnaround
If you are not at the couloir entrance near 13,400 feet by about 8 a.m., or the snow did not freeze overnight, turn around.
Crux
The right bend in the couloir near 13,600 feet. You are in or next to the main fall line, where slides and falling rock funnel through.
Route-finding
Moderate. The trail is clear up Missouri Gulch. The north face can be confusing, because the summit is hard to pick out. Study the face before you start up.
Water
Missouri Gulch has water in the lower valley. Filter it. Carry 2 to 3 liters for the climb.
Chaffee County Road 390 leaves U.S. 24 about 20 miles south of Leadville (a right turn) or 14.5 miles north of Buena Vista (a left turn).
Follow the dirt road about 7.5 miles until you see the Missouri Gulch trailhead sign. Go left there and down into the big parking lot, which has restrooms.
Trail in the treesTundraSnow or couloirRidgeExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Missouri Gulch trailhead 9,650' · 0 mi
Set off on the Missouri Gulch trail, crossing the Clear Creek bridge into the forest.
2
Forest switchbacks 10,400' · 1 mi
After about a quarter mile, the trail climbs many switchbacks. Leave them near 10,400 feet and keep heading south up the gulch.
3
Log crossing 10,800' · 1.4 mi
Near 10,800 feet, go left and use a log bridge to reach the creek's east side.
Watch for: Logs can be icy early in the morning.
4
Old cabin ruins 11,200' · 1.8 mi
Hike south about a third of a mile to what is left of an old cabin. Above the trees, keep hiking up the gulch. Mount Belford and Missouri Mountain come into view.
5
Head of the basin 11,900' · 2.6 mi
Pass the turn-off for Mount Belford and keep going south. Above 11,900 feet the north face of Missouri becomes clear. Stop and study it to pick your couloir.
Watch for: The summit is hard to spot from here.
6
Turn toward the face 12,800' · 3.3 mi
Near 12,800 feet, go right and up a short slope into a gentle bowl below the face. Cross it to the base of the couloirs.
Watch for: Put on crampons and helmet here if you have not already.
7
Couloir entrance 13,400' · 3.8 mi
Climb steepening snow to where the main couloir begins.
8
Right bend 13,600' · 4 mi
The couloir turns right near 13,600 feet. In most conditions this is the riskiest stretch of the whole climb.
Watch for: You are in the fall line. Move through quickly and watch above for sliding snow or rock.
9
Upper couloir 13,850' · 4.3 mi
Above the bend, the rest of the couloir is in view. The snow eases a little; climb it southwest for about 350 feet.
10
Summit of Missouri Mountain 14,071' · 4.5 mi
Once on the summit ridge, go left and walk up to the top.
Getting down
Most climbers do not go back down the couloir on foot, unless they are skiing or riding it. The usual choice is to walk down the standard summer route on the ridge and back into Missouri Gulch. If you do descend the couloir, face in on the steep parts and wait for snow that is firm but not icy.
If things go wrong
Below the couloir entrance, simply turn around and go back down the bowl and the gulch. Once in the couloir, descending it is possible but slow, so decide early. If the snow turns soft, starts to slide, or rocks are falling, get out of the fall line and go down. In an emergency, call 911 if you have signal.
Other routes
Every way up Missouri Mountain we list, with its class.
This describes the route in its usual season. Distances and elevations are close estimates for planning. Snow, ice, rockfall, a washed-out road or an afternoon storm can make it a very different climb. Check recent conditions the week you go and turn around when the day tells you to.
