Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
This is a technical climb. Falls here can be fatal. It is for experienced climbers who are comfortable on steep, exposed rock and can decide when to turn back.
Combo route · Mount Wilson + El Diente Traverse
Overview
This is one of the classic ridge traverses in Colorado. It links El Diente Peak and Mount Wilson in the San Juan Mountains. This description climbs El Diente first from Kilpacker Basin, crosses the connecting ridge, and descends Mount Wilson back into the same basin.
The traverse is rated Class 4. It has loose rock, a cluster of rock towers to work around, and a steep, narrow crux with exposure on both sides. Mount Wilson's summit block adds one more tricky spot. This route is only for experienced climbers who move well on exposed, loose terrain.
The ridge itself is only about a mile with about 500 feet of gain, but it is slow. The full day from the Kilpacker trailhead is about 13.25 miles round trip with about 4,800 feet of gain. Many parties camp in Kilpacker Basin.
Plan of the day
Start by
By 4 a.m. from the trailhead, or 5 a.m. from a camp in the basin.
Turnaround
Be on El Diente's summit by about 9 a.m. The traverse can take several hours. If the weather is not clearly stable, do not start it.
Crux
The steep, narrow section after the saddle east of West Wilson, near 14,100 feet. There is exposure on both sides. The rock pile just below Wilson's summit is a second crux.
Route-finding
Hard. Key spots are the gully off the south side below El Diente, the traverse under the Organ Pipes, the way around Pin Point, and finding the 14,150-foot notch below Wilson's summit ridge.
Water
Streams in Kilpacker Basin. None on the ridge. Carry 3 liters and filter.
TundraRidgeTalus and screeExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Kilpacker trailhead 10,060' · 0 mi
Follow the Kilpacker approach trail toward Kilpacker Basin.
2
Kilpacker Basin 11,500' · 3.5 mi
The trail enters the basin below El Diente. Continue on El Diente's south slopes route toward the summit.
Watch for: Fill water in the basin. There is none on the ridge.
3
Summit of El Diente Peak 14,159' · 5.5 mi
Reach El Diente's summit. Check the weather and your time before starting the traverse.
Watch for: Put on your helmet if you have not already.
4
Gully on the south side 14,000' · 5.6 mi
Go down to the notch and retrace your way up, keeping to the ridge's north side. Find the top of a small gully on the south side and go down it.
5
Under the Organ Pipes 13,900' · 5.7 mi
Leave the gully by angling left, then cross under the Organ Pipes. Continue across loose gray rock and climb back toward the ridge as you round a corner.
Watch for: Very loose rock. Keep your group close together.
6
Top of El Diente's north slopes route 14,000' · 5.8 mi
Beyond the corner is the place where the crest is joined by El Diente's north slopes route.
7
Pin Point 14,000' · 5.9 mi
Stay just below the crest on the south side and head for Pin Point, a cluster of towers on the ridge. Do not climb over them. Cross stacked rock to their base and follow cairns across steep rock around them. Then climb loose ground back to the crest.
Watch for: You can also drop about 100 feet lower to go fully around the towers.
8
West Wilson 14,100' · 6.1 mi
The ridge ahead is fairly simple. Scramble above 14,000 feet to the top of West Wilson and cross to a knob of harder rock at its east end.
9
Saddle below the crux 13,950' · 6.2 mi
Downclimb off West Wilson through rocky ground to the low point of the saddle. Take a good look at the steep climb ahead.
10
The crux 14,100' · 6.3 mi
Drop a little onto the south side and find the easiest way to start up. Work left toward the crest as you climb, and do not drift too far right. Near 14,100 feet, regain the crest at the west end of this section and carefully cross the narrow ridge.
Watch for: Exposure on both sides. Take your time.
11
Final saddle 14,000' · 6.4 mi
Descend the east end of the narrow section, staying on or just left of the crest, to the last saddle on the ridge.
12
Notch below Wilson's summit ridge 14,150' · 6.45 mi
From the saddle, turn right, pass some rock walls and climb a Class 2 gully to a notch near 14,150 feet. Here you join Mount Wilson's north slopes route.
13
Summit block 14,230' · 6.5 mi
Turn right out of the notch and follow the narrow summit ridge. A group of rocks blocks the way to the top. Going left is the easiest way around them.
Watch for: The right side needs exposed Class 4 moves.
14
Summit of Mount Wilson 14,256' · 6.55 mi
Get past the rocks and step onto Mount Wilson's summit.
Getting down
From Mount Wilson, descend its southwest slopes route back into Kilpacker Basin. Take care getting back past the summit block and down to the notch. Once in the basin, follow the approach trail back to the trailhead.
If things go wrong
The easiest way to bail is before you start. Once on the traverse, escape options are few, and it is often best to keep going toward the nearest summit route. Near El Diente, you can return to El Diente's summit and go down its south slopes. Past the crux, keep going to Wilson and descend its southwest slopes. In a storm, get off the crest as soon as it is safe, but avoid blind descents into unknown gullies.
Other routes
Every way up Mount Wilson we list, with its class.
This describes the route in its usual season. Distances and elevations are close estimates for planning. Snow, ice, rockfall, a washed-out road or an afternoon storm can make it a very different climb. Check recent conditions the week you go and turn around when the day tells you to.
