Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
This is a snow climb. It is only safe when the snow is firm and stable, usually early in the morning in late spring and early summer. You need an ice axe, crampons, a helmet and the skills to use them. Check avalanche conditions before you go.
Snow route · Quandary Couloir (North Gully)
Overview
The Quandary Couloir, also called the North Gully, is a steep snow climb on Quandary Peak's north face. You reach it from McCullough Gulch. It rates Class 3 with steep snow. The key section is a narrow choke where the snow can be under 10 feet wide and 40 to 45 degrees or more.
It is for climbers with solid ice axe and crampon skills. It is far harder and more serious than Quandary's standard east ridge hike. It should only be climbed with good snow cover and is not a summer route.
It is about 5.25 miles round trip with roughly 3,250 feet of gain. Most parties take 6 to 9 hours.
Plan of the day
Start by
By 3:30 or 4 a.m. The couloir faces north, but you still want frozen snow and to be off the route before it softens.
Turnaround
If you are not at the small lake at 11,900 feet by first light, or the snow is soft or unstable, do not start up.
Crux
The choke near 12,400 to 12,800 feet. It is about 100 feet long, can be very narrow, and is 40 to 45 degrees or steeper.
Route-finding
Moderate. Follow the McCullough Gulch trail to the waterfalls, stay right of the falls, and climb to the small lake. From there the whole couloir is in view.
Water
Streams and the lake in McCullough Gulch. Filter it. None in the couloir.
Head south from Breckenridge on Colorado 9 for about 8 miles, then make a right onto the Blue Lakes road and another right onto the McCullough Gulch road. After about 1.4 miles, pull into a small lot on your left; the summer shuttle turns around here.
From there, walk about 0.3 mile farther along the road and around a gate, then follow the McCullough Gulch trail signs. Parking is tight. Do not park where signs forbid it.
RoadTalus and screeScramblingTundraSnow or couloirExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Parking area 11,000' · 0 mi
Walk down the road about 0.3 mile to the gate.
2
Gate and old road 11,020' · 0.3 mi
Walk around the gate and take the old road uphill to the left. You pass a building after about a quarter mile.
3
Trail leaves the road 11,100' · 0.8 mi
After nearly half a mile on the road, take the marked trail on the left.
4
Forest and boulder field 11,300' · 1.1 mi
The good trail winds through the trees, crosses a few small log bridges and then a small boulder field.
5
Waterfalls 11,600' · 1.4 mi
Near 11,600 feet you hear waterfalls. Side paths lead to them. Stay right and climb a rocky hill north of the falls, up through ledges.
Watch for: Ledges can be icy in the early morning.
6
Small lake 11,900' · 1.6 mi
Top out at a small lake. The whole couloir is in view. This is the place to judge the snow and decide whether to go.
Watch for: Look for recent slides, rockfall, and whether the snow is frozen.
7
Apron below the couloir 12,200' · 1.8 mi
Drop east, crossing the stream that drains the lake, and walk to the rock and snow apron at the base of the couloir. Put on crampons and helmet. Climb about 200 feet to steeper snow.
8
The choke 12,600' · 2 mi
Near 12,400 feet the walls close in. Climb carefully through the narrow, steep choke to easier ground above 12,800 feet.
Watch for: This is the crux. A fall here would be hard to stop. Climb one at a time and stay out of the path of anyone above you.
9
Middle couloir 13,500' · 2.3 mi
The next 800 feet or so are steady and even, though the couloir bends. Near 13,500 feet it turns right and the top comes into view.
10
Top of the couloir 13,900' · 2.5 mi
Stay in the middle to about 13,700 feet, where rock outcrops often poke out. Bear slightly left and climb steeper snow to the top.
11
Summit of Quandary Peak 14,272' · 2.6 mi
Turn right at the top of the couloir and hike about 350 feet up to the summit.
Getting down
Most climbers descend Quandary's standard east ridge trail, which is a hike. It ends near the Quandary trailhead on the Blue Lakes road side, so plan a car shuttle or a road walk back to McCullough Gulch. Only skilled parties should downclimb the couloir, and only if the snow is still firm.
If things go wrong
Before the choke, you can turn back down to the apron and the lake. Past the choke, going up and over the top to the east ridge trail is often safer than downclimbing. If the snow gets soft or starts to slide, get out of the fall line and descend. In an emergency, call 911 if you have signal.
Other routes
Every way up Quandary Peak we list, with its class.
Quandary Couloir (North Gully)this routeClass 3 5.25 mi
Conditions change the route
This describes the route in its usual season. Distances and elevations are close estimates for planning. Snow, ice, rockfall, a washed-out road or an afternoon storm can make it a very different climb. Check recent conditions the week you go and turn around when the day tells you to.
