Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
This is a snow climb. It is only safe when the snow is firm and stable, usually early in the morning in late spring and early summer. You need an ice axe, crampons, a helmet and the skills to use them. Check avalanche conditions before you go.
Snow route · Northwest Gully
Overview
This is a snow climb up the gully on the northwest side of Mount Belford. It shares the popular Missouri Gulch trail for the first few miles, then leaves the standard trail and climbs a long, broad gully to near the summit. It is only worth doing while the gully holds snow. Once it melts out, use the standard northwest ridge trail instead.
The snow is easy for most of the way, so this is a good first snow climb for someone who has learned to use an ice axe and crampons. It is rated Class 2 with easy snow. Compared with the standard route, it trades switchbacks for a steady snow slope and a bit of route-finding through ledges up high.
Plan on about 7 miles round trip with 4,500 feet of gain. Most parties take 6 to 9 hours. Start early so the snow is still firm.
Plan of the day
Start by
By 4 or 4:30 a.m. You want to be climbing on hard snow and off the gully before the sun softens it.
Turnaround
If you are sinking in past your ankles, or you are not near 13,400 feet by 9:30 a.m., turn around. Soft snow is slow and raises the risk of slides.
Crux
The broken, ledgy section between about 12,900 and 13,400 feet. Pick a line through it that stays on snow or easy rock.
Route-finding
Easy on the trail. The key spot is where the standard trail crosses the stream that drains the gully, just before the northwest ridge. Leave the trail there and head up the gully. Up high, stay in the center and do not drift right toward the steeper lines.
Water
Missouri Gulch has water low on the route, and there may be meltwater in early season. Carry 2 to 3 liters and filter anything you collect.
Coming from Leadville, head south on U.S. 24 for about 20 miles, then make a right onto Chaffee County Road 390. Coming from Buena Vista, go north on U.S. 24 for about 14.5 miles and make a left onto that same road.
About 7.5 miles along County Road 390, a sign marks the Missouri Gulch trailhead. Go left there and drop into the large parking lot. There are restrooms here. In late spring, check that the road is open before you go.
Trail in the treesTundraRidgeScramblingExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Missouri Gulch trailhead 9,650' · 0 mi
Start on the Missouri Gulch trail and cross the bridge over Clear Creek. The trail enters the forest right away.
2
Forest switchbacks 10,000' · 0.4 mi
After a quarter mile or so, the trail climbs through many switchbacks in the trees. It is steady work.
Watch for: Old snow in the trees can hide the trail early in the season.
3
Top of the switchbacks 10,400' · 0.9 mi
The switchbacks end near 10,400 feet. Continue south up the side of Missouri Gulch.
4
Log crossing 10,800' · 1.3 mi
Turn left and cross the creek to its east side on a log bridge. Keep heading south up the gulch.
Watch for: Logs can be icy in the morning.
5
Old cabin ruins 11,100' · 1.6 mi
About a third of a mile past the crossing you pass the remains of an old cabin. The trees start to thin soon after.
6
Treeline 11,300' · 1.8 mi
You leave the forest near 11,300 feet. Belford rises ahead as you walk south into the open gulch.
Watch for: From here on you are exposed to weather.
7
Mount Belford trail junction 11,600' · 2.2 mi
At the junction, the Elkhead Pass trail goes right. Turn left onto the Mount Belford trail.
8
Stream crossing below the ridge 11,900' · 2.4 mi
A stream flowing out of the gully cuts across the trail a short way before you reach the foot of the northwest ridge. Leave the trail here and head left up the gully. Put on crampons if the snow is firm.
Watch for: Check the snow before committing. If it is soft or shows signs of instability, turn back.
9
Gully widens 12,200' · 2.6 mi
The gully is narrow at first but opens up above 12,200 feet. Climb the easy snow slope at a steady pace.
10
Gully bends left 12,300' · 2.7 mi
Above 12,300 feet the gully turns left. Steeper lines branch off to the right toward the upper ridge. Ignore them and keep heading southwest up the middle.
Watch for: Do not drift right into the steeper side lines.
11
Broken ledges 12,900' · 3 mi
Near 12,900 feet the terrain gets more complex. Weave through the ledges on the easiest snow or rock you can find.
Watch for: This is the crux. Watch for rock poking through thin snow.
12
Upper slope opens up 13,400' · 3.2 mi
By 13,400 feet you are through the ledges and the slope is wide again. Keep climbing.
13
Turn toward the summit 13,600' · 3.3 mi
Near 13,600 feet, turn right and follow the fading gully south toward the top.
14
Summit of Mount Belford 14,202' · 3.5 mi
Walk up to the rocky summit block and scramble a few easy moves to the top.
Watch for: Watch your step on the block if it is icy.
Getting down
Many climbers descend the standard northwest ridge trail, which starts near the summit and leads back to the same junction in Missouri Gulch. It avoids downclimbing soft snow. If the gully is still firm and you are confident, you can go back down it, facing in on steeper spots. From the junction, retrace the trail north through the gulch, over the log crossing and down the switchbacks.
If things go wrong
Below about 12,900 feet you can simply turn around and walk down the gully to the trail. Higher up, heading for the northwest ridge trail is often the quickest way off. If the snow turns to mush or a storm builds, get down. The trees below 11,300 feet give shelter.
Other routes
Every way up Mount Belford we list, with its class.
This describes the route in its usual season. Distances and elevations are close estimates for planning. Snow, ice, rockfall, a washed-out road or an afternoon storm can make it a very different climb. Check recent conditions the week you go and turn around when the day tells you to.
